Can my steering arms be bent?

vanguard

vanguard

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Location
Apex, NC
I recently installed an FJ80 front axle on my rig. I feel like everything turned out pretty well with the exception of the tie rod location. Unless somebody knows something that I don't, there aren't any reasonable methods of getting hi-steer for an fj80 axle. As I look at it I wonder, "Can the steering arm just be bent?"

Here are a few pictures to illustrate what I'm talking about. Here's a shot of the installed axle with the tie rod in place.
dcp_3950.jpg


This is an earlier picture that shows the steering arms.
tie_rod.JPG


I don't know exactly what material these arms are made from but my goal would be to bend it right at the red circle above so that the tie rod would be higher and closer to the axle.

So, is this heat, bend, then gusset idea a good one?
 
those arms are cast.

I've seen some homebrew hi-steer arms, but you have to get creative.

OTT used to make a setup, but it was $800.
 
can you change out the outers from a mini truck front axle and run after market stuff on it???? doubt it but just an idea i had
 
Rich said:
those arms are cast.
I've seen some homebrew hi-steer arms, but you have to get creative.
OTT used to make a setup, but it was $800.
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Thanks for the reply. As you implied, OTT stopped making that setup. I think somebody else makes something (FROR?) but the price to get it all done was insane, something like $2k and it involved getting right hand drive FJ80 knuckles imported from Australia and other tough to manage feats.

I know that cast often means it's made from material that's hard to work with but maybe there is somebody talented on the forum interested in a side job? Is this idea just a non-starter? Maybe I should wheel it as it is and see how much trouble it gives me.
 
tacoma87 said:
can you change out the outers from a mini truck front axle and run after market stuff on it???? doubt it but just an idea i had
Click to expand...
I don't think that would work. The FJ80 birfields are much larger (normal knuckles won't fit) and the axle is wider (normal axles won't fit). I just don't see any combination of parts that would let me run one of the easily available toyota hi-steer kits.
 
Tacoma747 said:
Don't try to bend them. If they were forged you could do it, but it would weaken them significantly. Cast, well don't even try.
You don't want to be 'that guy' do you? :)
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Ok, so this is the response I expected. But I was thinking that it can be bent. But now it's weak so it needs gussets. But cast is hard to weld, it needs to be cherry red when you do it.

I'm tempted to try it but maybe for something like steering it's a better idea to find somebody that's been doing this for years, instead of a hobby level guy like me.

So now I'm waiting for the guy that says, "I've you're man. I can bend it and make it stronger than stock." Or maybe the guy that says, "I'm a serious expert on welding stuff like that and I wouldn't touch it."
 
Off road only-- remove the knuckle put it in the oven @ 400 -500 degrees at least 1 hour or 2 then remove heat & bend while it's hot have your gusset ready use nickle rod on dc reverse tack & weld in gusset ( weld an inch on one side then an inch on the other to keep entire area hot) between welding ping with a hammer to relieve stress & have someone with a torch on to keep it @ the 400 to 500 degrees when finished welding ping it some more put it back in the oven for a couple of hours to normalize the heat then bury it in a gallon bucket with dry concrete mix (no water) to cool as slow as possible

Ive done this on various cast parts with success.
good luck
 
By the way, why not just run the tie rod on the back side of the axle like it's 'spoda be? Link interference?
 
Rich said:
By the way, why not just run the tie rod on the back side of the axle like it's 'spoda be? Link interference?
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There are two reason.
1) I'm not sure running under the diff is that much better of a spot for the tie rod. I think about how many times I've been on the u-joint and worry that the tie rod would be at least as bad.

2) I'm not using a hi-pinion third so I can't run the tie rod there anyway.

I looked for a hi-pinion third but wow, those guys sure are proud of them. If I managed to get the tie rod up higher and closer think it would be almost as good a true hi-steer system and better than the stock position. We'll see. I'm also considering finding a machinist to build new arms but for all I know that's insanely expensive.
 
Interesting. That would change things a little...
 
Maybe it's as simple as making it hot, bending it up, then using 1/4" plate to weld in a boxed section as a super gusset?

Or maybe I need to follow Jeff B's approach even though it's forged steel?

My final idea, which may be the best one yet, is to wheel it and see how it goes. I see guys newer than me fixing problems they've never ran into and might not ever have. Now I see myself fixing stuff even though I haven't wheeled the new axle yet.
 
Even if it is forged steel due to the thickness it should be preheated to a min of 400 degrees before being welded peen it to be safe cool it slow as possible


But if it were me I'd wheel it untill it broke then get another set & burn that shit in

don't fix it if it ain't broke
 
Jeff B said:
Even if it is forged steel due to the thickness it should be preheated to a min of 400 degrees before being welded peen it to be safe cool it slow as possible
But if it were me I'd wheel it untill it broke then get another set & burn that shit in
don't fix it if it ain't broke
Click to expand...
Yep on both parts
Had a guy do some welding for me and he did not pre heat it enough and the weld cracked I had to redo it.
Big steel needs to be pre heated.
 
Ok, I'm going to take the advice of a few guys on the forum (including me) and wheel it first. If it's getting in the way I'll see what I can do about making a "higher steer" system. If it's not a big deal then I'll start to consider my options.
 
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