carb help please

ncpatroler

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Location
Clayton
I'm about to lose my mind so I'm finally swollowing my pride and calling out for help...is there anyone in the Raleigh area that knows anything about adjusting a weber carb on a 258...I will come to u...bring u beer, make my wife cook for you, have your next child, whatever it takes...just need the help

just a little background its a weber 32/36 dgev, nutter bypass, team rush ignition, headman header, 1985 CJ7

PLEASE HELP!!!
 
Never really tinkered with a Weber carb, and I'm not in Raleigh, and maybe I missed other threads (so I'm really no help at all)...but what kind of symptoms are you getting??? What's been done so far??? If nothing else, here's a free bump.
 
i know nothing about jeeps but Webbers are pretty basic should work descent right out of the box usually just adjust the float and they do pretty good off road with a psi regulator
 
i agree...webers are about as basic as it comes...only about three adjustments to the whole carb...but here are the symptoms maybe someone can help

if I set the carb per weber instructions, it cranks great and idles fine but when you get on it, it will not get out of its own way and once it warms up it will not idle at a stop light and will cut off...
or I can turn the air/fuel mixture screw up a little and turn the idle adjustment screw just a bit and it cranks hard but will idle at stop lights (be it idling too high) and I get a little pep back...

either way is no longer acceptable...i took the carb apart and insured that no passages were clogged, the needle valve is working properly, i have a fuel pressure regulator on it set to 3.5 psi per weber instructions

kinda at a lose and of course the carb is out of warranty...so there that went


any help would be appreciated
 
are you sure its the right size sounds like your getting the pep back because your turning the idle circuit up and there for adding fuel I would say your either need a bigger carb or something is clogged also make sure your getting enoughair you can add some choke or block off part of the air filter this will richen your air fuel and kind of give you a hint on wich way you need to go
 
IMO the MC 2100/2150 is about one of the best carbs every made. Stupid easy to work on, with a few tricks can and will perform better off camber than most of what's available today. I have a few sitting on the shelf, but all would need a serious rebuild/work.
 
What's the history? Did the Weber ever work good? Did change carb because? Make sure basics are all good. I don't think idle circuit has enough fuel available to make a big difference in drivability. I'd be willing to take look at it if you are willing to bring it to Rocky Mount.
 
no honestly the webber has never really run right...it has had some moments when it was better than others, but my carter crapped out and had too much wear to rebuild so i jumped on the first thing i saw that had good reviews, the webber 32/36...since i have preformed the nutter bypass, a team rush ignition upgrade, and replaced my factory exhaust manifold with a headman heater...the team rush made it idle so much better but only to have it putter out on me after the engine warms up and have no power what so ever...

I'm starting to wonder if there is something wrong with the vacuum advance on my distributor?
 
Could you send me pics of your setup? I have dealt with many webers. what colors the choke cover? It sounds like one of my webers and running crazy rich. Have you checked the floats to se if they are set right? Also idk what kind of fpr your running but if ur running one of them mr gasket chrome ones they are junk. Trash it and get either a weber fpr or holly they are the best to run on a weber. Also weber's need flow more than pressure thats why they dont require alot of pressure. If ur running it off of a manual fuel pump it will not provide enough flow for a weber. You need a electric fuel pump mounted by the fuel tank to provide constant flow unlike a manual fuel pump which will flutuate.
 
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I can try to get some pics but dont have any with me right now

as far as the choke cover it is black, I have checked the float and it is in speck per webber redline...i am running a holley fuel pressure regulator set to 3.5 psi also per webbers own instructions...i am running it off of the stock manual fuel pump but it is having no problems keeping up with the 3.5 psi requirement and although i know that a manual fuel pump does not supply a consistant amount of fuel pressure the pressure regulator should be fixing that problem

anyone in the Raleigh area have a mc2100 they r willing to part with before i drive to greensboro to see spraypaintman this weekend???
 
ok so as luck has it I finally found a guy that at least seems to know what he is taking about but I wanted to run what he said by you guys just to be sure...he said that my problem is not my carb at all that the problem is my timing...he said to forget about the 8 degrees advanced that everyone recommends and to advance the timing until i get peak vacuum out of my distributor and then just turn it back a couple degrees and that should fix my problems...anyone have an opinion on that?
 
I agree timing usually best around 11-13 degrees btdc with a weber. As i said before webers dont need pressure they need flow and a manual pump normally wont provide that. But thats my 2¢. Good luck and i will halp anyway i can.
 
just n case anyone else is having a simular problem...keep screwing with the jeep today...took the distributor apart and checked, cleaned, and lubed everything...then reset the carb with the mixure screw two turns out and the idle screw just touching...pushed the timing up to 13 degrees....

and with a little more tweaking of the mixure and idle screws...omg it is worlds better...it still cranks hard once the motor is warm but it is so much better

think i'm still going to pick up a mc2100 just in case...thanks for all the help
 
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