changing a dana 30 to a 44 (help)

chazzuk

Active Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Location
whiteville
i have a xj and it is running 36 13.50 irocks it has a dana 30 in the front and a 8.8 in the rear im wanting to change the 30 to a 44 but i dont wanna get the back wider than the front so im wondering what can i do to make it work i need a hp dsd but idk what size
 
Going to be hard to find a 44 front with the width and bolt pattern to match the 8.8

Most will either be from a ford, and be considerably wider than your rear, and with a different pattern, or be from a waggy, which will be close on width, but have the wrong lug pattern.

If you really want to match, you will be looking at somewhat custom front axle( or maybe you could get a rubicon front, although i dont know much about their specs)

i would just go full width ford, and go ahead and swap in a 9" rear.
 
so your hp 44 and 9 rear match and both are running 8.9 are both locked
 
every front axle you are going to find will be as wide or wider than the rear, but not the same bolt pattern.... the only HP dsd axle is the ford HP44, and it will be fullwidth unless you shorten it...
 
get a ford hp44 front (not the cast C versions from broncos or 77+ f150s) and use the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. run a 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5.5 spacer in the rear for your 8.8 and that should work. the hp44 will still be about 2-3 inches wider so it would need to be narrowed. shops can cut custom widths with no problem. you can cut the 2-3 inches off the long side shaft and it should work fine. i'm going the same setup for my YJ.

fyi. the rubicon dana 44 is a low pinion.

awspence had the best idea. if you find a match set hp44 & matching width 9" then run that if you don't mind a wider stance (65-66" WMS).
 
On the rear 8.8, you can do the Super 88 kit too. That will give you axle shaft that can be 5 on 4.5 or 5 on 5.5. Strong enough to handle pretty big meat.

I have a chromo 4340 shaft kit in my D30 front. Very strong. You can also get a 30 spline upgrade shaft kit with a few different locker options. That will give you shafts about as strong as a D44 for less money and work than a D44.
 
fishgutz said:
On the rear 8.8, you can do the Super 88 kit too. That will give you axle shaft that can be 5 on 4.5 or 5 on 5.5. Strong enough to handle pretty big meat.

I have a chromo 4340 shaft kit in my D30 front. Very strong. You can also get a 30 spline upgrade shaft kit with a few different locker options. That will give you shafts about as strong as a D44 for less money and work than a D44.
Click to expand...


for the same money as the super 88 kit, you could install a 9" with 35spl axles...

the only problem with the upgrade for the front, while alot easier, you still have the weakness of d30 R&P, balljoints, and unit bearing...
 
Interesting.
$535 for a Ford 9" with disk brakes and the same width as a D35? That is really good.
 
fishgutz said:
Interesting.
$535 for a Ford 9" with disk brakes and the same width as a D35? That is really good.
Click to expand...

your not factoring in the cost for the 8.8... so with the going rate of one with discs... yea, for $735 you could build a 9"...
 
Live and learn.
From the time I bought my YJ, I have put a total of around $3500 into the rear end.
First putting in a Detroit true track and 4.10 gears. The 33 inch tires caused enough twist to throw bolt heads off the carrier and tore up everything. Ring pinion and diff demolished.
The I put on the Ford 8.8. When factory LSD wore out I put the power trax in.
That just all came apart without taking out the ring and pinion.
Have a Detroit locker on the way. Probably hold off on a Super 88 for now.

When you do the 9" does that include the spring perches and shock mounts? What is the diameter of the axle tube? Must be close to the 8.8.
And it is a floater too? How does the width compare to the stock D35?
I can plan ahead for when I break my 8.8 beyond repair. That would be sooner if I put on IROKs and skipped the Super 88. Ha ha.
 
there are alot of things that factor into cost of the axle... spring perches and shock mounts are cheap and simple really...

you can build a FF 9" using either spidertrax/unit bearing outers, or grafting a FF axle outers onto the housing... stock 9" is SF though, but doesnt use C-Clips...

for the width of it, you can get whatever you want... depends if you are running stock shafts or want to upgrade, and whether you want to use a stock housing, or aftermarket... here is a list of stock widths:

Width: from wheel mounting flange to wheel mounting flange :
1957-59 Ford - 57 1/4"
60-64 Ford 61 1/4"
57-59 Ranchero and SW - 57 1/4"
1964-71 Full sized cars - 61"
1979-81 Lincoln Versailles - 58 1/2"
1972-79 Ford intermediate & Full Size - 63"
70-79 Ranchero/Torino - 63"
57-72 F-100 Pickup - 61 1/4"
73-86 F-150 Pickup/78-86 Bronco - 65-65 1/4"
66-77 Bronco - 58"
1977-86 Ford E-150 - 69 1/4"
77-81 Granada/Versailles - 58 1/2"
67-70 Mustang/Cougar/Fairlane/Comet/Falcon - 59 1/4"*
70-73 Mustang family - 61 1/4"*

also price can depend alot on what goodies you want... if you want to stay cheap, go with a stock axle with gears and spool... you can even upgrade to 35spl fairly cheap...
 
If you dont mind having a low pinion 44 front find one from an early bronco. Its almost the same width. Then get some spacers that will adapt your rear axle to the same bolt pattern as the front.
 
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