cheap taco

That's the next planned step. But I've got to get caught up on housework before I can jump back into it. Hopefully next week.
 
My coat of many colors....

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I took the .5" spacer out and put a stock spring isolator in, that got the excessive lift under control. The ball-joint angle still seems a bit much when I look at it, so I try not to look. The alignment guy says he was able to get the alignment within spec, and the ball joint isn't banging over every tiny bump. I'm satisfied with it. I also found a deal on a camper top off an '01 double cab truck. From this distance it seems to fit pretty good, but it is about an inch too long, and there really isn't any way to fudge it a little on the front end. I figure I'll try to make a few dollars on it and if there is no interest, I'll paint it tan and bolt it down.
 
Also, those 33's are looking small.
 
It's been probably 8-9 years since I was on Daniel Trail at URE. I must say I was pretty disappointed in the "ledge" I've been hearing so much about. Had a great day despite the heat, only issue is a leaking rack and pinion.....

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The best part of the day was the crowd gathered at the bottom of the hill on Dickey Bell asking me "are you going to try in that". I said I didn't come to try anything, we're just going to do it. After they explained to me that there was a jeep hung up on some rocks and that staying to the right was the way to go, we took the left all the way to the top.
 
I agree. I bottomed out good once, but bounced right over it without slowing down. I wish I had dual cases so I wasn't riding the clutch so much.
 
I spent a lot of time the last 6-8 months playing with my guns, and haven't given the truck much attention. I bought a t-case and modded it for twin sticks over 7 months ago, and it is still sitting in the shed. I started rattle can painting it 6 months ago, and still haven't done the drivers side door, tailgate, or the camper top. But a few days ago I decided I wanted to "finish" the front bumper. I put finish in quotes because what I started with has holes cut in it that no longer need to be there, and is trimmed out around the winch very poorly. When we built the tube bumper, I had in mind to reinstall the factory bumper behind it; and almost 3 years later, I did just that. Hopefully I can find a replacement in good shape and use this hack job for a pattern.

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I've been collecting and trading parts, just a few pieces left before the dual transfer cases will be ready to swap in. Picked up some like-new 35's this weekend, waiting for the powdercoater to finish up my beadlocks. Also, looking for a steal in a 4.88 front diff....

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When ever you tub the front I'd recommend finding a 37 to use as a guide in case you ever wanted to step up. Tubing isn't that bad but would suck to do it twice.

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Not a bad idea. I was planning on just cutting as much out as I could. All the way back to the door hinge, possible take part of the hinge. Did you post pics of yours?
 
Also make sure you alignment is where it needs to be, the lower control arm had quite a bit of adjustment. Keep a fire extinguisher handy too and be very careful near the harness on both sides.

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Chris_Keziah said:
I'm pretty sure I did. If not I still have them.

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I found a couple in your build thread. Was the 1.25 spacer necessary to keep them from rubbing the frame? Was hoping to not have to run a spacer.
 
The wheels I had didn't clear the calipers by a fuck ton so that was one reason. The other was to clear the frame at full lock, which it still just barely rubbed.

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Self-centering, anti-coning, DIY beadlocks. I got some maxxis short-course tires that were still on the rims a year or so back, I copied that design and even reused the aluminum outer rings on these. Flat brown powdercoat, OD green spray can on the outer rings.

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Trimmed a little fender this weekend, and got my wheel spacers. Still need to clearance the firewall, haven't decided which method to use yet.

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Second trip to GER, first with the 40’s. It survived the climb at the end of Cripple Creek. Entrance to Jigsaw maybe? Still belly out on the entrance to the Honey Hole.

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Just read all through this thread, cool to see you still have after all these years! I just sold my last rzr to get back into a rig after 7 year break lol got a 2002 taco crew cab prerunner and already bought set of axles,tcase etc etc. What all did you go with when you finally SAS it? love those wheels, what are they?
 
Bigben75ford said:
Just read all through this thread, cool to see you still have after all these years! I just sold my last rzr to get back into a rig after 7 year break lol got a 2002 taco crew cab prerunner and already bought set of axles,tcase etc etc. What all did you go with when you finally SAS it? love those wheels, what are they?
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The wheels are KMC something, Machete maybe???

For the SAS I did a 3-link using a wagoneer axle and parts from everywhere. I’ll try to hit the high points and tell you why you should do it differently….

Wagoneer Dana44… everyone says they are great but they are too narrow. At the very least get a Ford HP 44, 05+ superdutys are the way to go.

Sky’s offroad frame plates with steering box mount built in… great frame plates, but if I had gotten the steering box mount separate I would have been able to push the axle forward another couple of inches.

WFO shock towers… I bought these because they don’t require cutting them inner fender, and I wasn’t interested in relocating stuff under the hood. But they are designed around a 10” shock and if you want more than that you will end up with a bunch of lift. 10” works OK as a a decent all around wheeler, but 12” would be much better.

Trail gear steering shaft kit and PS hose kit… there really isn’t another option except full hydraulic.

Transmission crossmember is a big thing… I had my friend modify the stock one for dual cases, and didn’t want to toss it out and start over, so I built my link mounts around the stock crossmember mounts. It works. That’s about it. It was and is a pain in the ass. I wouldn’t do it that way again.

Unless you are a highly skilled welder and a contortionist; just go ahead and cut the floorboards out for access. You can weld them back in later.

If you use a Toyota, or aftermarket axle with a fabricated housing, put the upper link on the driver side. If you have a cast center (dana) run it on the passenger side. You’ll have to notch the frame and/or beat the hell out of the exhaust. If you want to stay low, there really isn’t room for even the smallest truss.

And don’t stress about perfect geometry. Make it as close as possible, mock it up, and cycle it a bunch making sure that angles stay where you want them.

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Bigben75ford said:
Just read all through this thread, cool to see you still have after all these years! I just sold my last rzr to get back into a rig after 7 year break lol got a 2002 taco crew cab prerunner and already bought set of axles,tcase etc etc. What all did you go with when you finally SAS it? love those wheels, what are they?
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Chop the frame at the firewall and build your own out of 2x3 tube, that way you don't have to mess with frame plates and you get more uptravel. Saves a ton of time as well.
 
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