Cheapest Dana 60 hydro assist?

9" ram so you have room to over travel if you grind the stops. You will definitely need a reservoir with enough capacity to prevent starving the pump. The pump needs to output both more volume and more pressure to adequately run a ram so an upgrade might be in order.

No help on the Toyota specifics; I built my hydraulic system from scratch. Used AN -6 everywhere except for the hose from the reservoir to the pump, that is AN -10. My ram is only 1.5" diameter so it doesn't flow as much fluid.
 
wrong section....should go in general tech or axles/tires/suspension

However, a 2x8 will be somewhat slow for a daily driver. It's much easier to find at TSC or Agri Supply...back when I bought my ram, they were 48 bucks. Now they're almost 100 and I have no idea why. A 1.75x8 would be quicker to respond. Those can usually be found on Surplus Center's website.

If I'm turning around or something when I'm moving slow, it takes a second for it to turn. It's all about flow.



Really though, for cruising around on the road, do you really need hydro assist? Not being a smart ass, I'm being serious.
 
Don't get me wrong...
With all due respect, why does it have to be the cheapest? If you can't put together a matched system, save until you can.
I've used Northern and TSC rams, hoses and fittings personally in the past and it *worked*. I've used kits from Howe before and it drove like a stock truck, only with great assist when needed.
Surplus Center has a great selection at good prices once you figure out which component specs you need.
 
Surplus center 1.5x8" swivel eye ram. That's the only one I use.
 
OnlyOneDR said:
9" ram so you have room to over travel if you grind the stops.
Click to expand...
I don't think he has the cash to go buy Braniks or RCVs for this to work. 8" travel on a 60 is as much as you want to go and keep stock shafts happy. Squeezing out more movement from axle shafts doesn't make sense unless you're competition crawling or racing. The extra radius you get doesn't seem worth it to me. Cheapest solution is always just to learn how to drive.
 
XJsavage said:
I don't think he has the cash to go buy Braniks or RCVs for this to work. 8" travel on a 60 is as much as you want to go and keep stock shafts happy. Squeezing out more movement from axle shafts doesn't make sense unless you're competition crawling or racing. The extra radius you get doesn't seem worth it to me. Cheapest solution is always just to learn how to drive.
Click to expand...

It was a suggestion for room to grow, so he doesn't do it twice. I bought a 9" with plans to do RCVs at some point in the future. Mine doesn't drive terribly but coming from the factory IFS where it could turn on a dime I feel like I am driving something more akin to a schoolbus now. I would eventually like to get some of my tighter turning radius back.
 
XJsavage said:
I don't think he has the cash to go buy Braniks or RCVs for this to work. 8" travel on a 60 is as much as you want to go and keep stock shafts happy. Squeezing out more movement from axle shafts doesn't make sense unless you're competition crawling or racing. The extra radius you get doesn't seem worth it to me. Cheapest solution is always just to learn how to drive.
Click to expand...
X2. Also you don't want the ran to have more travel than the knuckles/joints. This could lead to breakage in the right situation.
 
Back
Top