Chevy dana 44 rebuild ?

cj777

cj777

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Durham, NC
I am currently rebuilding my front axle. It's a dana 44 from a Chevy k20. I have never rebuilt a front axle before, so I may ask some really stupid questions. My first problem is getting the spindle off. I have taken the 6 nuts off of the knuckle studs, do I also need to drive the studs out to get the spindle off? Also, does anyone have any good references on rebuilding chevy axles? :beer:
 
Somebody knows how to get this thing off right? Do the studs need to come out, or do I just need to get a biggerFH and whack it
 
I think I used a pickle fork to wedge into the back of it to pop it off. A chisle might work too. If you want to beat on it leave the nut on the end of the spindle and then tap on it on all sides to break the spindle loose.

:beer:
 
cool. I just didn't know if anything else was still holding it on. I'll start beating it as soon as I get home
 
Some rust eater spray would be good to use too. Liquid wrench is one that I have used with success. Don't beat on it too hard. If you mess up the threads you will be screwed. If you can wedge it off that is the safest way since the beef of the spindle is on the back side.

:beer:
 
use a deadblow and then work at it with a flat blade screw driver from side to side and it should pop right loose.....
 
If you have one try an air chisel
 
I used a deadblow hammer, a 2 lb sledge hammer, cold cheisels, and and air hammer. Still took me a little while to get mine off my Ford Dana 44. What I finally did was find a screw driver I really cared little for and drove it in between the spindle and knuckle. The once that had made a small crack I used a 2 lb sledge hammer and cold chiesel to get the rest of the way off. Then I moved to the other side and hit it about 4 or 5 times with a sledge and cold chiesel and it came right off.
 
Cool, it sounds like it's just hard to get off. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't forgetting something. Next Question: I'm putting in a set of yukon 4340 shafts. What ujoint do you think is best for the $? I am trying to decide between Superjoints, CTM's, or OXs. Any advantages or disadvantages to any of those?
 
I have never upgraded ujoints before. I have always wanted my ujoint to be my weak link.
 
Let the weight of the truck do it....
Place wood blocks under it then lower the truck down and load it with the weight of the truck then jack it up a few times repeat. Only load it good, your not wanting to drop it.
that should get it loose and just hit it with a dead blow on a block of wood and hammer. Never hit steel on steel to beat it off. Also most have one spot cut in to fit a punch or screw driver in.
Jon
 
MR. GADGET said:
Let the weight of the truck do it....
Place wood blocks under it then lower the truck down and load it with the weight of the truck then jack it up a few times repeat. Only load it good, your not wanting to drop it.
that should get it loose and just hit it with a dead blow on a block of wood and hammer. Never hit steel on steel to beat it off. Also most have one spot cut in to fit a punch or screw driver in.
Jon
Click to expand...

Unfortunatley the axle's not under the jeep yet
 
Here's a picture of where I am at. It's not the actualy axle, but a google find. I assume the circular piece and the brake bracket need to come off fist. Any trick to that? All I've accomplished is bending the circular piece
 

Attachments

  • CaliperMount.jpg
    CaliperMount.jpg
    29.6 KB · Views: 519
I use a spindlenut socket with a 10lb. slide hammer for removing spindles. All of your tool trucks and some parts stores carry or maybe rent them. If you plan on doing alot of service work it would be well worth the expense. Most of the time it only takes 4-5 hits and the spindles is off. If you need
some part numbers let me know.
 
Back
Top