Chrysler Nerds, I Need PCM Help (JTEC)

Buddy Holly said:
For posterity’s sake I will also add that there is a way to check the angle difference between the cam and crank sensors. It requires from what I can gather the OEM Chrysler DRB III scan tool or a fancy bi-directional tool, but the jury is out on which specific models of scan tool will work. I’m waiting on a coworker to bring in his fancy MAC scanner, but I read the Autel 900 series as well as a few others have the functionality too. You can also command a cam/crank relearn on these engines with these tools.

Procedure is:
Hook up the scan tool and monitor the cam/crank angle while the engine is running. The PID is called CAM CRANK DIFFERENCE. Crack the hold-down on the cam sync and rotate until the reference angle difference is as close to zero as possible (while still running). Tighten the hold-down. Then command the cam/crank relearn (SET SYNC) so it learns the new reference angle. The engine has to be off to command the relearn. Then you just start it and resume peaceful existence (hopefully)
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Too bad you're not near Mt Airy this weekend, I could bring my Autel...
 
Bebop said:
Too bad you're not near Mt Airy this weekend, I could bring my Autel...
Click to expand...


Funny you mention that, because the lady and I will be in Winston on Saturday. Unfortunately though it’s to meet her parents for lunch so I doubt we’ll have time to meet up, and I’m pretty sure we’re taking her car anyways. Otherwise I’d totally run up that way.

Thanks the offer though :rockon:
 
Figured I’d update here after a couple months. 99% sure the misfire has been remedied by replacing the cam sync. I’ve put 2000 miles on it so far and have driven it from Raleigh to Mooresville on all of the hot days we’ve had so far this year. It hasn’t skipped a beat. Thanks for the help fellas!

I still haven’t been able to perform the cam/crank pattern learn/set, but if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, right?
 
Sweet. Hopefully the new one lasts a long while. Like I said in my first post the Ford Vulcan 3.0 did this same thing and the oiling was not great on the top bushing so eventually it wears out and wobbles. Having never seen yours I am unsure it would suffer the same fate but I would put money on it regardless. A real distributor with a rotor would resist wobbling due to rotational inertia but a cam phasor with just a shaft through a bore does not have the same reluctance to wobble/vibrate.
 
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