CJ5 questions

zmancj

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Jan 16, 2008
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Sylva
I have a 81 cj5 and im going to replace the deff seal front and rear. What gear oil should i use? I am also going to put a new sending unit in the gas tank. Is there any thing i should know before i start? Any help would be great thanks Zack.
 
Gear Oil = 90W
Sending unit, do your self a favor and cut a hole in the floor board above the sending unit. BUT DON'T CUT THE FUEL LINES OR WIRES! Create an access hole to get to it. it makes it SO MUCH easier than dropping the tank. then make a plate to go over the hole and screw it to the floor when you are done.
 
x2 on making the access door above the gas tank. I did that and it has saved me a lot of headaches. I actually put a small hinge on it so I can just open and close it with my fingers.
 
You know what's even easier... a jerry can on the back. :D I ran out of gas in my CJ5 numerous times, lol. After a while, my policy was to fill up every time I drove it. And considering mine only got 10mpg on the hwy, i pretty much needed gas every time i drove it. ahhh, how i miss my baby.
 
If your not cutting the floor (I don't blame you), just make sure you have most of the gas out before dropping the tank. Use a good floor jack and an extra set of hands when you start lowering the tank down, take your time, remove your fuel lines and associated electrical connections. It's not difficult, wear good eye protection (slinging gas), and if needed, use brass or aluminum to 'release' the retainer ring on top of the tank. Steel will produce a spark. Later, T.J.
 
I'd recommend a full tank. The full tank is much safer (but heavier) than an encolosed tank full of fumes. Most mechanics I've talked to in the past prefer a full tank to reduce the chance of an explosion. The gas will burn, but fumes inside an enclosed container will explode. And yes, use non-sparking tools whenever possible and save that cigarette until after you are finished working on the gas tank...

either 90W or 80W-140 will do in the axles...
 
rockcity said:
I'd recommend a full tank. The full tank is much safer (but heavier) than an encolosed tank full of fumes. Most mechanics I've talked to in the past prefer a full tank to reduce the chance of an explosion. The gas will burn, but fumes inside an enclosed container will explode. And yes, use non-sparking tools whenever possible and save that cigarette until after you are finished working on the gas tank...
either 90W or 80W-140 will do in the axles...
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You mean fill the tank up before dropping it?! fawk that, thats about 100lbs.
Great idea on the non-sparking tool for the lock ring. I've always used a hammer and screwdriver, no BOOM yet :bounce2:
 
RenegadeT said:
You mean fill the tank up before dropping it?! fawk that, thats about 100lbs.
Great idea on the non-sparking tool for the lock ring. I've always used a hammer and screwdriver, no BOOM yet :bounce2:
Click to expand...
The operative word is "YET".
 
mbalbritton said:
SLOSHING #100 at that! about that time you go left, it goes right!
Click to expand...

FULL tanks dont slosh....the fuel cant shift because there is no open space....
 
I've never had a problem with exploding but agree on safer is usually better, but either way I like to wrap a ratchet strap around the tank and jack to try and make sure it doesn't fall off.
 
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