Jeffncs
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2017
- Location
- Wake Forest
So I started to shift gears towards another project, when my wife reminded me that the Jeep still has a sewing machine for an engine while the replacement engine sits on an engine stand for 2+ months.
So… I decided to bump my 4.0 EFI swap ahead of turning the first wrench in the mustang.
Current state:
1982 Jeep CJ7 258ci/4.2l engine, 5 speed and 3.73 gears front and rear.
The is running a new Weber carb, leaks like a stuck pig and has ~200k miles. It can barely get out of its own way.
The previous owner installed a skid plate spacer kit to help the driveshaft angle for the lift kit, but makes accessing the rear valve cover bolt IMPOSSIBLE,
Future state:
4.0 with the EFI, computer, harness and ECM. Otherwise keeping the stock driveline.
Plan of attack:
External, electric fuel pump - 55gph sourced from Amazon
Harmonic balancer with Crank Position Sensor conversion from Hesco
Speedo cable adapter and Variable Speed Sensor for computer from Hesco
Throttle cable adapter also from Hesco
Stainless steel exhaust manifold - eBay
4.0l Engine condition:
~200k miles but ran strong, no oil burn
Stock, fresh engine rated at 190hp+ (vs 95hp for my 4.2l) - even if a little tired, I’ll still have a substantial power boost
Valve train clean with ZERO sludge
Oil pan interior is spotless and remaining oil a clean, healthy brown
Current state:
Stripped the long block and shot it with semi-gloss black engine paint
Replaced the valve cover gasket with a rubber Fel-Pro
Installed a new timing gear set (cracked the cover when installing the last bolt!!) - my buddy is going to weld the cover
Have a new, rubber Fel-Pro oil pan gasket once the cover is fixed
@Charles
@SDIVER2006
So… I decided to bump my 4.0 EFI swap ahead of turning the first wrench in the mustang.
Current state:
1982 Jeep CJ7 258ci/4.2l engine, 5 speed and 3.73 gears front and rear.
The is running a new Weber carb, leaks like a stuck pig and has ~200k miles. It can barely get out of its own way.
The previous owner installed a skid plate spacer kit to help the driveshaft angle for the lift kit, but makes accessing the rear valve cover bolt IMPOSSIBLE,
Future state:
4.0 with the EFI, computer, harness and ECM. Otherwise keeping the stock driveline.
Plan of attack:
External, electric fuel pump - 55gph sourced from Amazon
Harmonic balancer with Crank Position Sensor conversion from Hesco
Speedo cable adapter and Variable Speed Sensor for computer from Hesco
Throttle cable adapter also from Hesco
Stainless steel exhaust manifold - eBay
4.0l Engine condition:
~200k miles but ran strong, no oil burn
Stock, fresh engine rated at 190hp+ (vs 95hp for my 4.2l) - even if a little tired, I’ll still have a substantial power boost
Valve train clean with ZERO sludge
Oil pan interior is spotless and remaining oil a clean, healthy brown
Current state:
Stripped the long block and shot it with semi-gloss black engine paint
Replaced the valve cover gasket with a rubber Fel-Pro
Installed a new timing gear set (cracked the cover when installing the last bolt!!) - my buddy is going to weld the cover
Have a new, rubber Fel-Pro oil pan gasket once the cover is fixed
@Charles
@SDIVER2006
