CNC plasma tables

Tom@Hilltop_Machine

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2005
Location
Rural Retreat, VA
So I am looking at purchasing one for the shop. Looking at a 4x8 and it seems everybody and their brother is making and selling them now. Prices and quality are all over the place. Any solid recommendations? Would like to be in the 5- 6k range for a decent one without a plasma cutter.
 
The light industrial grade cnc market is super saturated right now.

Got a chance to talk with the guys at Wright CNC at SEMA this year and was pretty impressed with the quality of the table, features and cost. Cable management is very neat, auto torch height controller available, wet/dry table options and overall footprint is not much larger than the table itself. The latter can really make a big difference as some of the cheaper tables have gantry rails that make the table feel a lot bigger than it actually is and eat up shop space.

Could you get away with a 4x4 table and build a roller table to feed sheets onto the machine as needed? Might optimize space within the shop.

Also, shop around on the software licenses if you don’t have one already. I think Fusion just changed their rates and requirements for small businesses, higher than in the past.
 
The light industrial grade cnc market is super saturated right now.

Got a chance to talk with the guys at Wright CNC at SEMA this year and was pretty impressed with the quality of the table, features and cost. Cable management is very neat, auto torch height controller available, wet/dry table options and overall footprint is not much larger than the table itself. The latter can really make a big difference as some of the cheaper tables have gantry rails that make the table feel a lot bigger than it actually is and eat up shop space.

Could you get away with a 4x4 table and build a roller table to feed sheets onto the machine as needed? Might optimize space within the shop.

Also, shop around on the software licenses if you don’t have one already. I think Fusion just changed their rates and requirements for small businesses, higher than in the past.

Is that Wright stuff seriously WinXP-based? Please tell me that they just haven't updated their spec lists in like 15 years.....
 
Is that Wright stuff seriously WinXP-based? Please tell me that they just haven't updated their spec lists in like 15 years.....

The computers that are offered are win xp dells I believe. But to my understanding you don’t have to use their laptops if you already have something capable or you already have software on another computer.
 
4x8 takes up way too much space if it's just a hobby thing, and since everyone and their dad makes plasma cut art these days, unless you're using it to support something else you do it's prob not a money maker. Anyway all that to say that if I were to do it again it would be a 2x4 that could easily be wheeled outside the 3 times a year it gets used.
 
I have a 2x2 Go torch that I bought used, and I would not recommend them. The entry price looks real good, but they get you after the initial sale. Every upgrade for the machine is 999.00 and you can easily run the cost of the machine north of 10K. With that said the machine does ok, but I would defiantly look for something with height control on it.
 
Making note of who to make friends with.... lol
 
Making note of who to make friends with.... lol

Once I get setup, if you need anything cut, im not far.

I also travel between rocky mount and Kinston and Greenville somewhat regularly.

As far as any other members I’ll be open to email me a dxf or a sketch with dimensions, cut it, and ship it to you.
 
Shop space is not an issue so that is why I was looking at a 4x8. Not much more than a 4x4 table and that way I can put a full sheet of material on it.
Go 5x10 if space isn't an issue. It's not often, in offroad fabrication anyway, you'll need a whole sheet cut up at once, but you may want 3 different thicknesses on the table at once when working on a project. I spend as much time switching thickness on my 4x4 to create multiple parts...
I’ll have a Langmuir pro 48x32 in my shop in Jan/feb. price was right for entry level hobby use. Curious to see how it does. If I don’t like it, I’ll use it to cut the parts to build a 4x4 table.
Make sure you upgrade to a floating Z axis if not planning for torch height control. Ask Nick K. how aggravating it can be without.



The biggest thing I will change about my setup (premier plasma, 4x4, flat top, look alike to Wright's- about 6g including my 80 amp cnc everlast panda cutter); I will expand to 4x8-5x10 when space allows, and I will change to linear rails on all axis- versus the skateboard type bearing guides. They're extremely difficult to get the chatter adjusted out of, and the evidence is in the cut profile smoothness. On a good day with clean guides , I can get a near laser quality cut, but that's not everyday...

I'm not sold on THC for +14 gauge sheet metal and plate. So many issues reported with it. Floating Z works great for what I make. I don't do thin gauge (18 and up) art.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
Once I get setup, if you need anything cut, im not far.

I also travel between rocky mount and Kinston and Greenville somewhat regularly.

As far as any other members I’ll be open to email me a dxf or a sketch with dimensions, cut it, and ship it to you.

Oh man, I am glad we are friends. :rockon:
 
Couple more tips:

If not using THC (but floating Z- axis) ... and even more important if using something like langmuir with manually set torch height

- slats must be kept clean to maintain the flatness of the work surface, as well the trash in the tray can push the slats up when fishing for parts. Means more maintenance. Even more important if using a dry bed. Water table doesn't stick as bad to the slats.

I've drained and flipped or cleaned my slats about 4 times in a year; about 5 gallons ($100 at local welding supply) of plasma quench in that time. I intend to have copper slats cut in sawtooth pattern soon, easiest cleaning.

- one drag of the tip or collision can end the consumables useful life quickly.
The everlast plasma consumable are pretty cheap $200 kit has lasted me over a year; have enough to get me through another month or so, but I don't cut everyday... I know Hypertherm is much more expensive, but likely last longer, idk firsthand.

- if you can swing it, a table drain and fill system is useful; to save the water when cutting aluminum, and the need to process the aluminum extensively before welding. The contamination to aluminum with the water/ quench is detrimental for tig welding. I have to process very quickly due to the contamination from the arc and water. And it will stain the aluminum badly if left for very long... overnight the bottom of the sheet will turn black!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
Lol, one more....

A water table will rapidly evaporate in your shop... anything sitting within about 10 feet will rust at an advanced rate...

But the metal on the table will not with the quench additive...[emoji23]

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
And dry air!!

I intend to add a refrigerated dryer. It's my biggest contributor to short consumable life...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

15 CFM Hankison Refrigerated Air Dryer for 3 - 5 HP Air Compressors | HPR15

We added one of these to our system at the office and it makes a world of difference. Much longer tool life in the wood shop, plasma consumables last longer and the tool changer on the CNC table seems happier too.

I'll be putting one in the farm shop at some point simply because of humidity in the summer and slowly wrecking our tools.
 
15 CFM Hankison Refrigerated Air Dryer for 3 - 5 HP Air Compressors | HPR15

We added one of these to our system at the office and it makes a world of difference. Much longer tool life in the wood shop, plasma consumables last longer and the tool changer on the CNC table seems happier too.

I'll be putting one in the farm shop at some point simply because of humidity in the summer and slowly wrecking our tools.
Win win for sure. I've never had an issue otherwise in the shop with my current air setup, but the proof is in the pudding from the scorch marks inside my consumables...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
Couple more tips:

If not using THC (but floating Z- axis) ... and even more important if using something like langmuir with manually set torch height

- slats must be kept clean to maintain the flatness of the work surface, as well the trash in the tray can push the slats up when fishing for parts. Means more maintenance. Even more important if using a dry bed. Water table doesn't stick as bad to the slats.

I've drained and flipped or cleaned my slats about 4 times in a year; about 5 gallons ($100 at local welding supply) of plasma quench in that time. I intend to have copper slats cut in sawtooth pattern soon, easiest cleaning.

- one drag of the tip or collision can end the consumables useful life quickly.
The everlast plasma consumable are pretty cheap $200 kit has lasted me over a year; have enough to get me through another month or so, but I don't cut everyday... I know Hypertherm is much more expensive, but likely last longer, idk firsthand.

- if you can swing it, a table drain and fill system is useful; to save the water when cutting aluminum, and the need to process the aluminum extensively before welding. The contamination to aluminum with the water/ quench is detrimental for tig welding. I have to process very quickly due to the contamination from the arc and water. And it will stain the aluminum badly if left for very long... overnight the bottom of the sheet will turn black!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

And dry air!!

I intend to add a refrigerated dryer. It's my biggest contributor to short consumable life...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

QFT

We've got a 2x2 langmuir at work and I can definitely say without THC you will burn through consumables like candy at a fat kid convention. Also I have had a tip blow out due to water getting in the air.
 
One of my better cuts on 5/16

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And some less than stellar pieces on 1/8
c20c40293e197c8501545835c2d6daab.jpg





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Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Couple more tips:

If not using THC (but floating Z- axis) ... and even more important if using something like langmuir with manually set torch height

- slats must be kept clean to maintain the flatness of the work surface, as well the trash in the tray can push the slats up when fishing for parts. Means more maintenance. Even more important if using a dry bed. Water table doesn't stick as bad to the slats.

I've drained and flipped or cleaned my slats about 4 times in a year; about 5 gallons ($100 at local welding supply) of plasma quench in that time. I intend to have copper slats cut in sawtooth pattern soon, easiest cleaning.

- one drag of the tip or collision can end the consumables useful life quickly.
The everlast plasma consumable are pretty cheap $200 kit has lasted me over a year; have enough to get me through another month or so, but I don't cut everyday... I know Hypertherm is much more expensive, but likely last longer, idk firsthand.

- if you can swing it, a table drain and fill system is useful; to save the water when cutting aluminum, and the need to process the aluminum extensively before welding. The contamination to aluminum with the water/ quench is detrimental for tig welding. I have to process very quickly due to the contamination from the arc and water. And it will stain the aluminum badly if left for very long... overnight the bottom of the sheet will turn black!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

All good tips there...I know I'm preaching to the choir with you, but for others who might be starting with CNC plasma:

One way to get rid of those jagged cuts on the thinner materials is to adjust the arc voltage in the parameters table (instead of changing cut height). I cant tell which way the draft on that kerf is going from the angle of the picture, but adjusting arc voltage and obviously cut speed will clean that right up. Those 5/16" plates look nice though.

I used Hypertherm consumables at my last job. Expensive - yes, but definitely worth it. We'd CNC plasma cut up to 1/4" aluminum (had no need for heavier stuff in sheet), and anything from 20 gauge to 2" steel.
 
All good tips there...I know I'm preaching to the choir with you, but for others who might be starting with CNC plasma:

One way to get rid of those jagged cuts on the thinner materials is to adjust the arc voltage in the parameters table (instead of changing cut height). I cant tell which way the draft on that kerf is going from the angle of the picture, but adjusting arc voltage and obviously cut speed will clean that right up. Those 5/16" plates look nice though.

I used Hypertherm consumables at my last job. Expensive - yes, but definitely worth it. We'd CNC plasma cut up to 1/4" aluminum (had no need for heavier stuff in sheet), and anything from 20 gauge to 2" steel.
Getting above my knowledge with voltage, but if I understand correctly, without THC I can't do that. My machine is only wired to be fired on and off from mach 3.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
Getting above my knowledge with voltage, but if I understand correctly, without THC I can't do that. My machine is only wired to be fired on and off from mach 3.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


You can control amperage, air pressure and feed rate but like you say, without THC you can't control arc voltage. For as relatively cheap as it is to add torch height control I don't see why you wouldn't-- that being said, it does add another level of complexity and anger.
 
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