Connecting "Gas" (LP) Logs?

Caver Dave

Just holdin' it down here in BFV
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Mar 10, 2005
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Looks like we're gonna get a set of ventless gas logs for 1 of our 2 fireplaces from my brother (they yanked a nice set for one with a remote :rolleyes: ).

I can get it plumbed into the firebox from outside (probably go with a service that provides the tank), but need to know exactly what's required... code wise.

IIRC, it should be plumbed with a steel flex from the tank to secured BMI (black malable iron) pipe with a shutoff just after the flex. Once inside the firebox, another shutoff into a flex connector to the logs themselves.

Like I said, getting it from outside where the tank will mount into the firebox isn't an issue... just want to make sure it's right (safety & code) so it'll pass inspection...

:beer:
 
Make sure that you use the correct tape (yellow stuff) the white stuff will blow up.

Also not sure on NC codes, but YES that would pass where I come from.

Also make sure that the unit has enough room to breath. If it is newer, it will have an auto shut off if it can't get enough O2.

Also make sure to have a Carbon Monoxide detector when first using it. I have set one up before that set off the detector in the house cause of improper ventilation
 
You can run type K refrigeration tubing the entire distance, from the tank to the logs. Put a shutoff (1/4 turn ball valve at the logs, then an appliance connector (flex line) to the logs. The tank already has a shut off valve on it. I could give you the codes, but I'd have to basically mail you the book.
 
Oh, and if you have a cheap CO detecter, toss it in the trash. Buy a good one that plugs directly into an outlet and has a battery backup. Common mistake that people make is mounting them up high like a smoke detector.
 
Since we on the topic of gas logs, I would like to put a set in my fireplace. The fireplace is a geniune brick with the fire blocks inside. My question is if I drill the hole thru the bricks, install the gass logs then couple years down the road decide to yank out the gas logs and go back to good ol wood fires. Can the hole filled with something to make it safe for wood fires again?
 
You can run type K refrigeration tubing the entire distance, from the tank to the logs. Put a shutoff (1/4 turn ball valve at the logs, then an appliance connector (flex line) to the logs. The tank already has a shut off valve on it. I could give you the codes, but I'd have to basically mail you the book.

Cool! But what is "type K tubing"? Heavy wall rolled copper? Never mind, I see that's exactly what it is... very good as I have a source for it & the compression fittings!

Thanks bro!


Oh, and if you have a cheap CO detecter, toss it in the trash. Buy a good one that plugs directly into an outlet and has a battery backup. Common mistake that people make is mounting them up high like a smoke detector.

Not sure about the cost of the CO detector (since I won it), but it does plug into the wall with battery backup...
 
Cool! But what is "type K tubing"? Heavy wall rolled copper? Never mind, I see that's exactly what it is... very good as I have a source for it & the compression fittings!

Thanks bro!




Not sure about the cost of the CO detector (since I won it), but it does plug into the wall with battery backup...

Standard copper roll from Lowes, etc. Stay away from compression fittings IMO, Use flared and you won't have to worry about it. Also, be careful on the thin walled flare nuts like Lowe's carries, if you over tighten them, they can crack down the side. If they have the forged, thicker flare nuts, use those.

You should be good with the CO detector.

Where your copper goes throught the brick, you will want to sleeve it with some type of plastic tubing.

Be sure to use a gas company that will leak test the system.
 
As opposed to me doing it with soapy water? :D

Soapy water is typically what they will use, but we all pay alot more for it since it is an approved leak detector.

I'll even go as far for my customers to flare all their connections for them. If they get the line in place from the tank to the logs, I'll do the rest. I've seen alot of people who thought they knew how to flare copper and you could pull the flare nut off by hand.
No offense to you, or anyone else with some common sense, but its pretty scary that anyone can go to Lowe's and buy everything they need to hook up a propane appliance, with no training or experience what so ever. I mean, its not like running water lines where if you have a problem, you and your family may get wet, you could hurt yourself or your family with one mistake.
 
Oh, and if you have a cheap CO detecter, toss it in the trash. Buy a good one that plugs directly into an outlet and has a battery backup. Common mistake that people make is mounting them up high like a smoke detector.

WARNING NERD ALERT

Being life safety certified and having spent >10 years in the life safety industry this is a half excellent point.

The nerd phrase: The specific gravity of C2O2 causes it to hovr as opposed to rise o fall. Its gas profile will generally fall in the 4-7 ft range inide a home at elevation near Charlotte.

What this means: The ones mounted in ceiling with smoke detector will go off lightly after you are unconscious. The ones that plug in are too low. One tied in to a monitored security/fire system is ideal provided that the installer 1-knw what he was doing and 2- wasnt a lazy ass and popped it in the ceiling.

Ok Im done...back to the log discussion....
 
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