Contractor/Builder friends of NC4x4

[bowtieman55]

This is my "garage".

It had and still has a termite infestation. Over the years they have eaten away at parts of the structure. I've ordered and take receipt of a new garage door to replace the rotten wood door. The garage door was not actually affected by termites, just old and in bad shape. Before I can hang the new door, I have to repair much of the frame work, along with having an exterminator come in.

Obviously, I will be replacing the vertical 4x4 at the door opening.

These stacked 2x4s that run past the (closed) door concern me. How do I repair the damaged wood closest to the garage door?

 

[13bullets]

Disconnect the cables, pull them out, cut or knock the old wood out, then replace with new. Drill new holes and re-run the cables. Or re-route them so they don't pass through the new wood, if you desire and if it's possible.

 

[bowtieman55]

Disconnect the cables, pull them out, cut or knock the old wood out, then replace with new. Drill new holes and re-run the cables. Or re-route them so they don't pass through the new wood, if you desire and if it's possible.

Considering those stacked 2x4s pass the door jamb, is there a way to splice in new wood or is a complete replacement the only way?

 

[13bullets]

First let me state that I'm an electrician by trade, and have only done home projects of my own and of relatives or friends. I do not do any type of structural construction for money. My advice is worth what you're paying for it.

So, I don't know the right thing to tell you, but if it were mine and I were going to go through the trouble of supporting the joists above it and replacing anything, I'd go ahead and replace the entirety of the pieces. I have an idea of what I'd do to splice in wood, but it may be dangerously wrong so I'll keep it to myself.

 

[kaiser715]

Of the 2 2x's...is the top one sound? Or have they destroyed both plates? From the pics, the top one looks like it may be solid....if it were mine, and since it isn't a house, I'd get the sawsalll, cut out and replace the bottom one as far back as it is bad, and add a third horizontal 2x4 between the outside door post and the inside door frame -- as far back as you can go. Use long enough lags/screws to go thru all three.

Oh, and what 13 said...disconnect the wires and drill to re-run when done. If they run a ways, and if you can pull enough slack, just cut...but you'll have to splice inside a junction box -- you'll need to pull at least about a foot of slack. ...what is the big black cable going to???

 

[bowtieman55]

Of the 2 2x's...is the top one sound? Or have they destroyed both plates? From the pics, the top one looks like it may be solid....if it were mine, and since it isn't a house, I'd get the sawsalll, cut out and replace the bottom one as far back as it is bad, and add a third horizontal 2x4 between the outside door post and the inside door frame -- as far back as you can go. Use long enough lags/screws to go thru all three.

Oh, and what 13 said...disconnect the wires and drill to re-run when done. If they run a ways, and if you can pull enough slack, just cut...but you'll have to splice inside a junction box -- you'll need to pull at least about a foot of slack. ...what is the big black cable going to???

It was a 220 outlet.

 

[rodney eppes]

You might consider using pressure treated, where possible. Or do termites eat treated, too. I'm not sure.

 

[shawn]

You might consider using pressure treated, where possible. Or do termites eat treated, too. I'm not sure.

They eat the shit out of the new pressure treated wood. It's their favorite.

I'd try to leave the top plate in place if it's in decent shape. Go back a stud or two and stitch in a new bottom plate. They don't need to be continuous, but you also don't want them both seamed at the same point. Seams need to be over a stud.

 

[rockcity]

Use a 4x4 spanning as many of the joists that you'll want to take the load off to replace the top and/or bottom plate. Use whatever jack you have available (I usually like to use pipe stands with an extension). Once the load is on the stands, use a sawzall to cut the nails between the top and bottom plate. Cut the bottom plate out all the way back to the center of whatever stud you want to go to. Make sure the seam on the top plate is at least 1 or 2 studs away. slide in the new bottom plate, nail it in, and let down on the jacks and you are good. Be careful removing the bottom plate as its likely the siding/sheathing is attached to it at some places.

From your picture, it looks like the top plate is seamed a few inches past the 2nd stud. If so, either replace the bottom plate back to the first stud or go all the way back to the 3rd stud.

Like Shawn said, try to leave the top plate if its in decent shape; the joists (and likely the siding) are nailed to it and it will be harder to remove.

For some future protection of marginal wood that you don't want to replace, there is a 2-part epoxy resin that is made to absorb into the damaged wood, cure, and strengthen the wood. It likely won't restore it to original strength, but restores it better than before. The bottom plate looks well deteriorated and there is no help for it other than replacing. But, the top plate looks like it is OK and may could benefit from this resin if its somewhat compromised. I have used this resin and it works pretty damn good.

 

[bowtieman55]

I've got LOTS of termite issues to repair, but this was one of the first to be tackled because it HAS to be done before I can install the new garage door. Thanks everyone.