does anyone have any new or cool ideas or ways to effectively flush the cooling system... i've used the radiator flush s*** 3 times and my coolant stays clean for all on 20 minutes. even stuck a hose in the radiator and tried flushing the crap out with the motor running. probably going to get a new motor by summer time but it just looks bad.....
cooling system "flush"
- Thread starter gt500swim
- Start date
a_kelley
mechanical fixer
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2010
- Location
- Rutherfordton
like after you flushed it, you rinsed, and filled with 50/50? reason I ask about rinsing and refilling with antifreeze is the flush is acidic/basic and will corrode the block/head/radiator/metal if left in.
whats it look like? I dont think I've seen oil in the antifreeze on a jeep 4.0, but have on OHC motors (oil pressure passage in head gasket for OHC vs pushrods for oil to top on OHV)..
black/brown crud floating in it? stick a coolant system pressure tester on it and see if it doesnt jump quickly way up past cap pressure idling, release pressure, repeat test, repeat twice more revving instead. you may have combustion gas making its way into the coolant.. some company sells "combustion gas detector dye" for antifreeze. can throw a emission analyzer over the radiator cap outlet if you have access to $10k diagnostics like that.
whats it look like? I dont think I've seen oil in the antifreeze on a jeep 4.0, but have on OHC motors (oil pressure passage in head gasket for OHC vs pushrods for oil to top on OHV)..
black/brown crud floating in it? stick a coolant system pressure tester on it and see if it doesnt jump quickly way up past cap pressure idling, release pressure, repeat test, repeat twice more revving instead. you may have combustion gas making its way into the coolant.. some company sells "combustion gas detector dye" for antifreeze. can throw a emission analyzer over the radiator cap outlet if you have access to $10k diagnostics like that.
a_kelley
mechanical fixer
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2010
- Location
- Rutherfordton
No particles then? Try flushing it with water once, then refill with antifreeze and filtered/cheap gallons of water (or 50/50).. I bet tap water in gastonia has chlorine in it. chlorine attacks steel.. that is if your antifreeze takes a little bit to discolor after you'd changed it.
a_kelley
mechanical fixer
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2010
- Location
- Rutherfordton
well, when you drain it, unless you pulled the block drain plug, it won't be completely empty.. block holds like 1/2 - 1 gallon. (assuming each time you changed it, it didnt get quite as dark as the last) maybe barring that, use a flush-tap.. AZ has them for $1 or $2... hook garden hose up, crank the motor, leave cap off.
MetalCraftSolved
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2010
- Location
- NC
maybe you could try just sticking the water hose in the top of the radiator and have the drain open and let the motor and water run and spew out everywhere for like 30 minutes
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Morganton NC
build you a y pipe. One side has water, other side has air, third side plumb into your cooling system. hit air periodically and all kinda stuff will come out
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2005
- Location
- Sharon, SC
maybe you could try just sticking the water hose in the top of the radiator and have the drain open and let the motor and water run and spew out everywhere for like 30 minutes
this is my method..but I recommend doing it near a stream so you dont have a big mess to clean up.
Jweezy
DD/Hauler(kids,groceries)
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2009
- Location
- Kannapolis NC
i took out the plastic part of the drain plug..... ive had the hose in the top, through all the hoses. pumped it through the block....ive not just left it running for a long time though... might try that... and the y-pipe method i need more info about it... dumb it down if you would
MetalCraftSolved
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2010
- Location
- NC
yeah it seems to me like nothing is happening until the motor gets up to operating temperature, let all that stuff run and see what happens
77GreenMachine
Phillip Talton
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2010
- Location
- Trinity, NC
when i bought my jeep its cooling systems had been neglected for sure. looked like muddy water from all the rust. i drained it all out, then started it up and filled it and let it run with the hose in the radiator. after it started spewing out clean water i put the plug bag in and let it get warm so the T-stat would open. then pulled the plug again (if you do this be carful, it will be hot!) after it got warm even more stuff came out. i repeated this process maybe 5 times and even used dawn dish washing liquid for 2 rounds till it flushed clean water constantly.
i think your problem is your flushing the radiator, not the whole system. if the T-stat is closed the water doesnt circulate thru the system. my method was a long process and my hand didnt appreciate the hot water a few times but it worked out great and runs a lot cooler now. but with all that said, the litle $2 spout at auto zone that a kelley mentioned is much simpler and great for getting trapped air bubbles out. i was just too lazy to go buy one and put it on lol.
i think your problem is your flushing the radiator, not the whole system. if the T-stat is closed the water doesnt circulate thru the system. my method was a long process and my hand didnt appreciate the hot water a few times but it worked out great and runs a lot cooler now. but with all that said, the litle $2 spout at auto zone that a kelley mentioned is much simpler and great for getting trapped air bubbles out. i was just too lazy to go buy one and put it on lol.
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2005
- Location
- Sharon, SC
Yeah I'm with David here...Ive let them run 20-30 minutes with the hose pipe stuck in the radiator and the drain cock open....it takes a while but it will eventually run clear.
That said in a day or 3 it wont be clear anymore.
That said in a day or 3 it wont be clear anymore.
transman731
get your shift together
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2010
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
pull the t-stat, install the hose again and flush it, let run for awhile and drain again. refill with coolant.
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Morganton NC
Included in your cooling system is 3 basic areas. Two cool which is the radiator and the heater core. The other builds the heat, your engine.
If you have an water hose that goes directly into your engine, it's much easier. Some engines only have have water going in and out of the water pump. The y pipe I am describing was a home made gizmo I saw at a radiator shop. As said, it had water going in one side, air going into the other, and the outlet for the both of them you connect to an existing water inlet. while keeping the water flowing all the time, you periodically hit the air to get a higher pressure going in, loosening stuff up. The flush you used probably loosened up a lot of gunk and rust build up. Leave the bottom hose off the radiator and let it flow through. Move the water/air hose to different areas to flush as much as possible. You should have drain plugs in the side of your block, depending on the engine. If it's just gunk, it will clear up easy. If it's a lot of rust, it's more difficult because it will settle in every lo spot in the engine.
I would do the radiator first, and then the heater core, and then keep them out of the flush procedure. It takes time.
If it's a cast block with a block drain plug, you can get a nipple from the plumbing supply and use that as an area to flush through.
If you have an water hose that goes directly into your engine, it's much easier. Some engines only have have water going in and out of the water pump. The y pipe I am describing was a home made gizmo I saw at a radiator shop. As said, it had water going in one side, air going into the other, and the outlet for the both of them you connect to an existing water inlet. while keeping the water flowing all the time, you periodically hit the air to get a higher pressure going in, loosening stuff up. The flush you used probably loosened up a lot of gunk and rust build up. Leave the bottom hose off the radiator and let it flow through. Move the water/air hose to different areas to flush as much as possible. You should have drain plugs in the side of your block, depending on the engine. If it's just gunk, it will clear up easy. If it's a lot of rust, it's more difficult because it will settle in every lo spot in the engine.
I would do the radiator first, and then the heater core, and then keep them out of the flush procedure. It takes time.
If it's a cast block with a block drain plug, you can get a nipple from the plumbing supply and use that as an area to flush through.