Cracked marlin crawler doubler

DannyH

DannyH

smokey burnouts
Joined
Jan 10, 2014
Location
Stanfield, NC
My doubled Toyota transfer case has been leaking since I bought the vehicle a few months back. This week I pull it to clean and re-gasket and it turns out the doubler is cracked near one mounting point. I checked the website and I do not think I can get it warranted so it is time to start welding. I checked the forums and couldn't really come up with anything about fixing this.
I just wanted to know if anyone has any expirence with this issue?
If so how did you go about welding it?
Did you weld on the mounting surface and machine it flat?
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Looks a lot like the repair I had to do on a bellhousing I had. Shouldn't be too bad. Just clean it REALLY good. When you think it's clean, clean it again. I scrubbed the piss out of mine with purple power until my friend that was welding was tired.

Then he tig welded it for me and polished the mounting surface smooth and true.

If you don't tig weld, find someone who can. You should be fine.
 
mbalbritton said:
Looks a lot like the repair I had to do on a bellhousing I had. Shouldn't be too bad. Just clean it REALLY good. When you think it's clean, clean it again. I scrubbed the piss out of mine with purple power until my friend that was welding was tired.

Then he tig welded it for me and polished the mounting surface smooth and true.

If you don't tig weld, find someone who can. You should be fine.
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My current plan of action is exactly that. Clean
Clean
Clean
Tig weld both sides
Then machine the mounting surface back flat

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I would grind a groove to fill up with weld.

This does a couple things,

It gets it super clean where the weld will actually be and gives room for the weld.

I'm assuming this is aluminum?

Clean with non chlorinated brake cleaner and then acetone.

Then take a torch and make sure you preheat before welding.

When you get ready to weld it, run over the area several times with the arc, but no puddle, and adding no filler.

This will allow the gas ions to remove any oxidation from where you are going to weld, and helps to preheat.

Then make the weld, and polish/grind/machine/drill back to spec.
 
Is it cast iron ? Steel? Cast steel? Aluminium? Cast aluminum?
 
I second Mac. If you don't bevel it your wasting your time. I would also be generous in the bevel. I prefer a fully penetrated repair which means a fairly deep bevel from both sides. Bevel the case side. Bolt to flat piece of stock. Weld the case side. Then remove strong back and back bevel to repair weld depth. Last weld that bevel on the flat side and machine surface for bolt face and good seal.
 
R Q said:
I would take it to Chris at MarsFab
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Yeah I think this is a little past me and I'd much rather have it done right, rather than me screw it up and have to completely buy a new one. Maybe when I get a little more experience on the tig I'll give something like this a shot.
 
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