Critique this Axle Build- What am I missing?

[REDLYNER]

Putting together a purchase list, how far off am I on my prices and parts? What is missing? This is going in the front of a TJ with coilovers.

• Reid Inner C's: $500
• Stock GM Kingpin 60 knuckles, spindles, wheelbearings, brakes: $500
• Stock 60 axle shafts: $150
• Drive flanges locking hubs: $200
• Ruffstuff housing: $600
• Third member: $225
• Gears and install kit: $350
• ARB: $900
• Labor: ???

I assume stock 60 steering? I'm really green on a custom axle build and have been reading a good bit (and talking to all of the shops), but need some feedback.

Thoughts?

 

[Spence]

fairly complete list, but I am pretty sure if i was using stock style shafts, knuckles, hubs etc, i would just build a normal 60?

If you just need a donor axle for the knuckles etc and woudl be OK with balljoints, a dana 50 might save you a few hundred over buying a 60 donor. I have considered snatching up a few cheap d50s for future axle builds with that in mind...

 

[Will Carter]

Just built that exact axle a few weeks ago.

Right off hand...if you're trying to save some bucks...drop the Reid C's and use stock. Spend that money on Reid knuckles.

Stock 60 steering isn't an option. Totally different mechanisms.
Edit: I was stuck on chevy kingpin steering in my head. A Ford axle would come with steering you could reuse. But for a couple hundred bucks in hiems and tube you'd be better off.


We were rushing to make a race so this is the best picture I have of it. During the test run.

Tests out ok!

Give me a call if you'd like to discuss some options.

336.693.4003

 

[braxton357]

If you're going gm and a steering box, the aftermarket c's and knuckles are a waste. Buy a cheap chevy axle, regear with arb, be done. If you ever go full hydro and large tires, plate the knuckles and buy 35 spline shafts.

:edit: nevermind, I see you're building a 609. Still would be cheaper to buy a whole stock 60 and swap the parts over.

 

[drkelly]

High steer arms?

Or are you going to run the steering to the stock knuckle locations?

 

[Cperry]

Stock 60 shafts, good idea to build housing around original lengths for ease or replacement. But using 30 year old axles w/ 30 spline stubs in a custom axle build with coilovers. I'd use stock C's and get some chromos, spend your money on the stuff that is going to brake first.

And why do a 9 inch, 9 is ultra low pinion and not that strong. Im sure Mr. Carter and travis did a High 9.

I would do HP60 and since it has coilovers alot easier to package you can use multiple years.

For budget sake (pictured), a bolt in fully loaded front 609 low pinion 3rd, REID's, ARB, Chromos and new everything is about 7k. B/c your brackets are simpler the axle will be cheaper but the fab work to install coilovers links ect is going to add up pretty quick.
Dont forget brakes, brake lines, master cylinder, ect.

 

[zombhntr]

60 fan

Imo I would run a Ford HP60. Not to hijack the thread but why are 609 so popular ?

 

[CTRaceWorx]

I'm with chase, if I didn't have the money to put down on a hi9 I wouldn't consider a 9" front. Personally I would run solid knuckles over the Reid knuckles.
I can take pictures of the front axle Will built if that makes things easier.

 

[Jody Treadway]

I almost built a 609 last winter. But for me and my wheeling/race style I just couldn't justify the extra $2500 just to gain some clearance and lose some weight.

Stock CUCV front with 35 spline outers and flanges would be what, $1400 or so? Add a Detroit or even a Lock Rite and be done under $2k. Steering is easy, tube and heims.

If ya got it to spend, do it. But you may be better off putting that extra $$$ elsewhere in your race rig.

 

[drkelly]

Imo I would run a Ford HP60. Not to hijack the thread but why are 609 so popular ?

- Weight
- Ease of trussing
- Ease of attaching links (no cast section)

That is what I have always thought.

A 609 front end costs more than my entire Samurai.