Custom leaf idea

75ArmyRanger4839

Active Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2011
Location
Monroe
I have a spare set of stock leaf springs off my 02 F250 7.3L 4wd and I have a 2.5" lift set of leafs installed now I'm working on a plan to combine these two and creating a lift and adding a block in the rear to level it back out. I will add a adjustable track bar and sway bar drop links and of course shocks. Has anyone done this before? If so any pointers?
 
So, you have a stock set and a 2.5" lift set you are wanting to combine to get more lift? You can easily add leaves to the 2.5" pack, but you probably want get any more lift than the thickness of the leafs added.
 
I've re-arched XJ springs in @drkelly 's HF shop press. I can't remember if I was the Guinea pig, or he did a set first. It worked pretty well. We separated the packs, then just laid a leaf across the press and cranked it down a bit. Then release, and moved it over a couple inches, and repeat. It was kind of time consuming, tried to get the same curvature on each unloaded leaf. It worked surprisingly well, I was happy, and I got quite a bit of lift out of it.
This was plan b. Plan a was aluminum lift blocks from autozone. They mushroomed out with axle wrap, which eventually spit out the driveshaft tearing up the axle yoke and t-case output. So if you are going to use blocks, make sure they're steel, and your leafs are stiff enough to address wrap, or use some kind of anti wrap bar. Come to think of it, when I re-arched my springs, I may have added an extra main leaf, with the eyes cut off to stiffen it up.
 
I came accross four about 3/4"x2.5-3' solid steel pieces that happen to be as wide as my leaf springs I think this may have just gotten more custom and those would be a good way to prevent axle wrap in the rear and/or extra support and lift up front. I will be posting updates soon I'm very pumped for this build. I am also thinking about building a custom tie rod and drag link and maybe rear track bars.
 
As RenegadeT mentioned, we reached some springs for one of his old XJ's in my typical HF 20 ton press. I have also rehabbed the YJ springs under my Samurai a few times using the HF press after messing them up during rough wheeling.
 
75ArmyRanger4839 said:
I came accross four about 3/4"x2.5-3' solid steel pieces that happen to be as wide as my leaf springs I think this may have just gotten more custom and those would be a good way to prevent axle wrap in the rear and/or extra support and lift up front. I will be posting updates soon I'm very pumped for this build. I am also thinking about building a custom tie rod and drag link and maybe rear track bars.
Click to expand...
The only thing I can picture here seems like a good way to break leaf springs.
 
I've combined sets (added a leaf or 2 or 3) before and can give a few pointers if that's the direction you want to go.
1. Never have a longer leaf below a shorter leaf (not even slightly). Causes for some funky spring bending. The one above the shorter leaf naturally wants to bend down and touch the longer leaf below the shorter one.
2. Never cut a top spring and leave any of the eye thinking it will line up with another eye. It don't! Ever!!!
3. Don't bother trying to take the center pin bolts out for they will be too short to repack the spring anyways. Just cut them and replace with an ordinary bolt sticking from bottom up so you can get wrenches on it to torque it. Use one that is plenty PLENTY long enough with PLENTY of thread. Use good clamps to pack the springs together and tighten the bolt and nut. Then grind the bolt head round enough for it to slide into the mounting hole. LEAVE EXCESS THREAD ON CENTER BOLT UNTIL YOU ARE SATISFIED!
4 It's very difficult in determining lift you gain for the spring rate system as a whole changes when they mesh together. I do one side at a time and add 1 spring at a time, reinstall, drive all funcky with one wheel jacked up for it to settle, then check height for desired lift.
5. They will settle even more over time. I added 2 leaves to my truck (for more load capacity) and it jacked it up ridiculous. One didn't change enough for me. So I got a couple tons of gravel and let it sit for like 2 weeks. It put it right where I wanted it.
6. Either tack weld the nut to the threads or drive a punch into the thread close to the nut for it to remain permanent after you're satisfied with lift and cut the extra thread off.
7. Stick with the stock pilot hole size. The more you drill it out, the more the spring leaf becomes the weak point. Never saw a bolt snap but seen a MANY springs crack at the bolt.
8. And of course the least amount of lift block the less tendencies for wheel hop and less tendencies for the springs to "S" shape on you due to axle torque. Spring lift is 10x better than block lift but also results in stiffer ride. Try to keep the block lift at a minimum. I'm a tad rough on my trucks so I prefer stiffer ride over weaker springs but also depends on the use of the truck.
9. Aluminum lift blocks , wedge blocks , spacers of any kind in a metal spring system are a complete joke. Metal beats aluminum like rock beats scissors...

Hope that helps!
 
6BangBronk said:
I've combined sets (added a leaf or 2 or 3) before and can give a few pointers if that's the direction you want to go.
1. Never have a longer leaf below a shorter leaf (not even slightly). Causes for some funky spring bending. The one above the shorter leaf naturally wants to bend down and touch the longer leaf below the shorter one.
2. Never cut a top spring and leave any of the eye thinking it will line up with another eye. It don't! Ever!!!
3. Don't bother trying to take the center pin bolts out for they will be too short to repack the spring anyways. Just cut them and replace with an ordinary bolt sticking from bottom up so you can get wrenches on it to torque it. Use one that is plenty PLENTY long enough with PLENTY of thread. Use good clamps to pack the springs together and tighten the bolt and nut. Then grind the bolt head round enough for it to slide into the mounting hole. LEAVE EXCESS THREAD ON CENTER BOLT UNTIL YOU ARE SATISFIED!
4 It's very difficult in determining lift you gain for the spring rate system as a whole changes when they mesh together. I do one side at a time and add 1 spring at a time, reinstall, drive all funcky with one wheel jacked up for it to settle, then check height for desired lift.
5. They will settle even more over time. I added 2 leaves to my truck (for more load capacity) and it jacked it up ridiculous. One didn't change enough for me. So I got a couple tons of gravel and let it sit for like 2 weeks. It put it right where I wanted it.
6. Either tack weld the nut to the threads or drive a punch into the thread close to the nut for it to remain permanent after you're satisfied with lift and cut the extra thread off.
7. Stick with the stock pilot hole size. The more you drill it out, the more the spring leaf becomes the weak point. Never saw a bolt snap but seen a MANY springs crack at the bolt.
8. And of course the least amount of lift block the less tendencies for wheel hop and less tendencies for the springs to "S" shape on you due to axle torque. Spring lift is 10x better than block lift but also results in stiffer ride. Try to keep the block lift at a minimum. I'm a tad rough on my trucks so I prefer stiffer ride over weaker springs but also depends on the use of the truck.
9. Aluminum lift blocks , wedge blocks , spacers of any kind in a metal spring system are a complete joke. Metal beats aluminum like rock beats scissors...

Hope that helps!
Click to expand...
That was the most helpful post I've read thank you for the advice
 
Keep in mind that adding springs will also make the total more stiff. Your ride quality may suffer (hard to predict) and you'll likely lose flex. Neither of these may matter to you.
If you do mix 'n match, don't just get *any old* bolt for the center pin! Get a good grade 8 one! and get something w/ fine pitch threads and a locking nut so you can really tighten that biotch down. If you ride it hard there's a lot of stress on that pin.

I've mix 'n matched Toy leafs w/ reasonable success. Keep in mind leafs always sag over time too, I know guys that do stuff like running around w/ a bunch of cynderblocks in the back for awhile to break in a new pack.
 
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