cutting tubing

toyota1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2008
Location
Fort Mill, SC
Looking at options for cutting tubing and other general stuff. The ability to accurately mitre cut is a huge plus. Right now I'm using an abrasive chop saw to do straight cuts and a dewalt 12" wood mitre saw with an abrasive blade for anything angled because it has an accurate system for critical angles. These work pretty well but leave a lot to be desired.
So what is everybody else using? Band saw horizontal/vertical? Cold saw? Torch?
 
How well is the dewalt holding up with that abrasive blade? I've heard the dust can eat up the motor bearings pretty quick. Gonna watch this one b/c Ive been pondering the same question....
 
It seems to be doing fine and I've probably had 8-10 blades on it. I always try to have a fan blowing when I'm cutting with an abrasive blade because I don't want to breathe that in so that may help
 
http://www.evolutionpowertools.com/us/

I have the Rage 3 and it has been incredible. It's rated at 1/4",but I've used it to make TIG tight double bevel miters on 0.5 X 2" cold roll. One day I'm going to get the 14" version for production. The 10" will work for you, though. Buy an Oshlun blade off Amazon and keep the supplied blade around for a spare while the other is out for sharpening. Also, it does great on wood. I like dual purpose tools.

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Other than a cold saw (Best! but most expensive!)...either a good horizontal band saw (next most expensive!) or a Evolution steel chop saw. These are the least expensive if used right. If not you'll burn up blades and spend $$
 
@NCJeeplover does that saw have pretty good power? Most I'll be cutting is 1/4" wall but 90% .125 and .188 if the smaller 4x6 does good I may go with that
 
http://www.evolutionpowertools.com/us/

I have the Rage 3 and it has been incredible. It's rated at 1/4",but I've used it to make TIG tight double bevel miters on 0.5 X 2" cold roll. One day I'm going to get the 14" version for production. The 10" will work for you, though. Buy an Oshlun blade off Amazon and keep the supplied blade around for a spare while the other is out for sharpening. Also, it does great on wood. I like dual purpose tools.

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A friend has this saw also. It works great on both wood and metal. I prefer it over an abrasive disc. The angular system isnt the best, but it could be improved. Biggest limitation I have seen is the blade diameter. I tend to use my portaband alot for cutting materials also. It would be even better with a stand.
 
@NCJeeplover does that saw have pretty good power? Most I'll be cutting is 1/4" wall but 90% .125 and .188 if the smaller 4x6 does good I may go with that

No one saw is going to be the be-all, end-all. Between the Ellis 1600 and the Evolution, I haven't touched my 4x6 in months. I'm tempted to sell it, but I know I'll need it again sometime. The Evolution is quicker and more portable than the 4x6,and easier to set up for tube work, too. You aren't going to throw a bandsaw in the truck and take it on site, but with the evolution, I was able to perfectly fit and miter a bunch of 1x2 stainless for a handrail on site. Dragging the bandsaw would have been a nightmare.

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@NCJeeplover does that saw have pretty good power? Most I'll be cutting is 1/4" wall but 90% .125 and .188 if the smaller 4x6 does good I may go with that

I used the same saw for ten years and used the hell out of it. Did hundreds of cuts on 2x2 bar stock. No problems what so ever. The motor finely went out a year ago and instead of buying a 100 dollar motor, i just bought a new saw. 200 bucks with coupon. If I have to spend 200 bucks for every couple hundred hours running I'm happy with that.
 
Max rpm 1800. Put that in an abrasive saw turning 3600 and you will quickly waste your $110.
LOL yep Guess you got a point there...... Whats the speed on the miter saw though
 
Typically 5k, I think. The Evolution saws are made specifically for metals. Lower rpms, higher torque, and significantly less expensive than a true cold cut saw.

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Those evolution saws look nice but I think a band saw will probably be what I go with. The ability to use it vertically will be useful also.
 
Anyone tried out the carbide blades lowes sells for cutting metal? I want to say they are tungsten carbide (very hard, but brittle). I didnt want to waste $50 on a 7.25" blade and not get my money out of it. (I figured I could buy 40 4.5" .050 abrasive disc grinder blades for that price)
 
I have used a 12 inch carbide Mikita Chop saw for years. Cuts angles but does not miter cut. The 12 inch Mikita is actually the same saw I bought before turning Blue Torch Fab into a full time business. We used it there building chassis and other parts for many years. After selling BTF I kept the saw. I am now using it again. It won't die.

Here is a link to the saw. You may be able to find it cheaper some place else
http://www.zoro.com/i/G2287941/?utm...hopping_Feed&gclid=CPe5wbKLqsICFc1zMgodbX0Akg
 
iam now using a super spacer and my mill, i run the tubing through the back side of the chuck on the super spacer the chuck rotates 360deg and the tilting up/down or leaning left/right of the mill head combined with x/y table movements i hope i can leave the arm breaking 1/2' dewalt alone.
awww.travers.com_Travers_20Images_Current_20eSales_20Images_600x600_65_800_004.jpg
 
Ended up picking a 5x6 band saw from northern tool for a little less $500 with the discounts I had. The stand leaves a little to be desired but the saw itself is great
20141226_154351.jpg
 
Ended up picking a 5x6 band saw from northern tool for a little less $500 with the discounts I had. The stand leaves a little to be desired but the saw itself is great View attachment 175801


I've never seen that one. That's a good looking saw! The vise is much nicer than what you get with a 4x6, and the swivel head is a great feature.

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