d30 CJ axle question

fattypackard

fattypackard

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Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
VA Beach
new question...

(1983 CJ7, dana 30 lockrite)

got everything installed, everything looks good etc etc.

BUT, when the CJ is in 4WD....it doesnt matter if the hubs are in 2WD position or the 4WD position....both front wheels always spin when under power.

correct me if i am wrong and that is normal opperation after a locker install.

but, shouldnt both tires spin in 4WD ONLY when the hubs are locked in 4WD.

even if the transfer case is in 4WD...if the hubs are still in 2WD....shouldnt they just spin freely? since they are disconnected from the axle...
 
- Remove the SPINDLE nuts/washer & slide the hub assy (hub + rotor) off the spindle
- Remove the 6 nuts holding the spindle to the knuckle
- Pull the shafts out

(the 2 bolts you mentioned are holding the caliper bracket to the knuckle)
 
what Dave wrote almost makes sense, I'm not sure I would've thought of removing the whole assembly, or if it actually is possible :flipoff2:.
I would've pulled the lockout hubs off the rotor, you need to remove the snapring holding the axlesahft in the lockout. Then remove the caliper, rotor, spindle, axle shaft.
The 2 torx bolts you see, are they holding the caliper to the caliper plate (on the knuckle)? My CJ is earlier, uses a wedge thingy instead for caliper retention.
 
ok so take the 5 bolts off the lockouts to open them up, then dis-assemble the lockouts and then the rotos etc etc should pull off?

not sure what 6 bolts Dave is talking about unless they are the ones on the back of the hub near the shaft, which i can not even get to with a wrench or anything.
 
RenegadeT said:
The 2 torx bolts you see, are they holding the caliper to the caliper plate (on the knuckle)? My CJ is earlier, uses a wedge thingy instead for caliper retention.
Click to expand...

Now we're not sure WTF YOUR talking about! :flipoff2:
The calipers still use the "wedge thingy" to hold the calper ON the caliper bracket... the 2 bolts he see's are likely the bolts holding the caliper bracket TO the knuckle... what I said the first time! :D

fattypackard said:
ok so take the 5 bolts off the lockouts to open them up, then dis-assemble the lockouts and then the rotos etc etc should pull off?
Click to expand...

Correct. I figured you knew the lockouts had to come off first... sorry.

fattypackard said:
not sure what 6 bolts Dave is talking about unless they are the ones on the back of the hub near the shaft, which i can not even get to with a wrench or anything.
Click to expand...

The 6 nuts (if you have studs) hold the SPINDLE to the knuckle. The spindles have to come off to get the shafts out...
 
^ no kidding, hah. i got everything off, thanks for the tips. i just needed to take the lockouts off and i was being lazy and really didnt want to do that. i should have known.

anyways now to the carrier part. i pre-marked everything as the manual says. but the diff and gears wont come out. is it suppose to be difficult for the guts to come out or should they just pull right out? i must be missing something again.
is it a must to disconnect the driveshaft and pull the pinion out?
 
fattypackard said:
is it suppose to be difficult for the guts to come out or should they just pull right out? i must be missing something again.?
Click to expand...

Some do, some don't... If they won't come out easily, I lay some newspaper/rags/box of packing peanuts under it (so the ring doesn't contact the floor & chip) and pry them out... usually with a well placed pry or crowbar. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE RING GEAR!

fattypackard said:
is it a must to disconnect the driveshaft and pull the pinion out?
Click to expand...

Nope
 
ok i got that out. now in order to take the spiders out/put the locker in....i need to get the thick "pin" put of the center correct? is there an easy way of doing this? i dont want to just beat on it and fubar anything. oh and thanks for the step by step tips. hah
 
you have to knock the skinny pin (roll pin) out first then the fat pin (cross shaft) will slide out. then roll the spiders out, take out side gears, retain thrust plates behind side gears and reuse when installing the lockright
 
ok got the locker in. 2 questions...

the thrust washers are the flat washers the came off the spider gears, correct?
i have to re-use those.

but there are also some concave washers that came off the side gears...do i re-use those also? or throw them out? i hope i throw them out because one of them is fubarbed.

also...the cross pin wont go through....it seems like the spacers inside of the couplers arent leaving enough room.....ideas? is there a wrong way to put those in?
 
nevermind i got all my answers on a writeup i found. got it installed everything went back in fine.

however, after putting the lockout hubs back on...no matter if they are switched to 2wd or 4wd....both front hubs turn.

is this because of the locker?

i feel like when the hubs are in the 2wd position, each hub should spin freely. even with the locker.

isnt that the whole point of lockout hubs?

i am 98% sure eveything went back in the correct way. locking washer....retainer nut....outer locking washer....outer retainer nut...lockoutseal with locking ring outside of that, then the littler c-clip...then the snap ring....then the giant spring and hub cover. did i miss something yet again?
or put something in the wrong spot?
 
fattypackard said:
new question...
(1983 CJ7, dana 30 lockrite)
got everything installed, everything looks good etc etc.
BUT, when the CJ is in 4WD....it doesnt matter if the hubs are in 2WD position or the 4WD position....both front wheels always spin when under power.
correct me if i am wrong and that is normal opperation after a locker install.
but, shouldnt both tires spin in 4WD ONLY when the hubs are locked in 4WD.
even if the transfer case is in 4WD...if the hubs are still in 2WD....shouldnt they just spin freely? since they are disconnected from the axle...
Click to expand...
you might get more visibility to your question if you create a new post instead of editting your initial post. :shaking:
With the hubs unlocked, you should be in 2wd, even if the tcase is in 4wd.
I don't know about the 5-bolt lockout hubs, or which you have, but the 6-bolt lockouts have one specific orientation they must go in to work correctly. You can reinstall them incorrectly. There's a little pin in the lockout case and a clearance in the casting that bolts to the rotor. Other than that, i'm not sure what might be going on.
 
^ thanks for the tips. yea i edited because i didnt want to keep cluttering the newbie section with all kinds of question threads.

with the jeep on a lift in the air, in 4WD even with the hubs unlocked....both front wheels turn. so i am guessing the hubs are always locked for some reason.

i have the stock 5 bolt hubs...is there an installation writeup somewhere for these?
 
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