D44 help!

Jeffncs

Jeffncs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2017
Location
Wake Forest
I thought I did the setup right, but the new bearings and reset assembly is locked. Anyone around Wake Forest that can help me avoid taking this housing to ECGS.
 
Are you able to install the carrier fully in the housing? They all bind up until you get em fully seated. But you should be able to seat it with a dead blow and then it will turn normally. Did you carry over the shims and spacers from the previous gear set?
 
I carried the shims over and made setup bearings. I mailed the preload, fine tuned the backlash, and gear engagement was perfect.

I pulled it all apart and install the new bearings with the shims.

The carrier is super tight and backlash goes to zero. I had to encourage the carrier in with a dead blow and needed the caps to pull the carrier in completely. Once pulled in and seated, nothing moves…it’s all frozen. Bearing caps are in the correct orientation and nothing changed.

Im so fried on this thing…
 
Jeffncs said:
I carried the shims over and made setup bearings. I mailed the preload, fine tuned the backlash, and gear engagement was perfect.

I pulled it all apart and install the new bearings with the shims.

The carrier is super tight and backlash goes to zero. I had to encourage the carrier in with a dead blow and needed the caps to pull the carrier in completely. Once pulled in and seated, nothing moves…it’s all frozen. Bearing caps are in the correct orientation and nothing changed.

Im so fried on this thing…
Click to expand...
Did it turn fine with the setup bearings installed? Are you absolutely 100% sure the bearings are fully seated on the carrier and pinion?
 
jeepinmatt said:
Did it turn fine with the setup bearings installed? Are you absolutely 100% sure the bearings are fully seated on the carrier and pinion?
Click to expand...

The bearings were seated fully and it turned perfectly using the setup bearing. im going to pull it apart again tomorrow to reset everything. I want to recheck pinion bearing preload. I’m thinking I changed something after setup and during install. i def messed something up. Just hoping I don’t have to buy another set of bearings…. If that’s the case, I’ll make new setup bearings with the newly install bearings vs the old ones I used for this setup.

I’ll be in the garage again tomorrow morning. Needing a “win”, I’m going to start with the 9” install. That ”should” be straightforward… should be…
 
I spent a couple more hours and decided to walk away after failing multiple times. Time to get a shower and pour a drink.
 
I spent a couple more hours and decided to walk away after failing multiple times. Time to get a shower and pour a strong drink.
 
Jeffncs said:
I spent a couple more hours and decided to walk away after failing multiple times. Time to get a shower and pour a drink.
Click to expand...
Jeffncs said:
I spent a couple more hours and decided to walk away after failing multiple times. Time to get a shower and pour a strong drink.
Click to expand...
I like how it progressed from a drink to a strong drink over that 6 minutes :laughing:
 
I hate to do it but am tempted to pull the front housing for ECGS…. Anyone want to make side money? Nothing against them, but housing is stripped and truck isn’t mobile plus I’d rather pay one of you guys cash.
 
Tom@Hilltop_Machine said:
I wonder if the set up bearings you are using are a smidge smaller than the new ones you have installed. Therefore locking everything up once you got the 3rd in the case.
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Even if they are off like 5-10 thousandths, it should still go together and turn, just have a bad mesh.
 
To help the OP a bit, if you used different brands of carrier bearings, they're not all the same dimensions regarding OD of the race and over all thickness. I wager to say you need to remove 0.0025" (the thinnest ones) from each side since your preload was so high (dead blow). Then I'd start with moving 0.010" from the ring gear side to the non ring gear side to get some backlash.
Pinion depth should.be right at 0.055" and pinion preload stack is usually money @ 0.050" on D44.
Feel free to message me anytime and I'll assist all I can
 
Last edited:
Jody Treadway said:
To help the OP a bit, if you used different brands of carrier bearings, they're not all the same dimensions regardless OD of the race and over all thickness. I wager to say you need to remove 0.0025" (the thinnest ones) from each side since your preload was so high (dead blow). Then I'd start with moving 0.010" from the ring gear side to the non ring gear side to get some backlash.
Pinion depth should.be right at 0.055" and pinion preload stack is usually money @ 0.050" on D44.
Feel free to message me anytime and I'll assist all I can
Click to expand...


Thank you!
 
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