D44 hub issues

THE guyrock

THE guyrock

Gentle Giant
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Location
Greenville
So recently my hub overheated and broke sending my warn premium and its guts flying off into the woods. Anyways, I got a new hub pressed the studs for the rotor through popped it on with new bearings and new warn lock. A day later the the wheel was loose again. I tore it down checked the bearings greased it up and it was fine for two days.

Started hearing a clicking noise and it was loose again and the new warn had come apart from the heat. Wtf? So Now I'm on the hunt for new bearings and another damn warn today. Any ideas what could be causing this to happen?

I torqued the spindle nut to 50ftlb like I'm supposed to. And put a metric shitload of grease in there. Never had this issue before.

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Your spindle could be warped, but most likely not enough grease in the right spot. You should fill the area between the two bearings with grease.

Also warn premiums have a lifetime warranty.

50ftlb seems a little much on the inner nut. The outter should be that or more.
 
THE guyrock said:
I torqued the spindle nut to 50ftlb like I'm supposed to. And put a metric shitload of grease in there. Never had this issue before.

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Click to expand...

After you torque the inner nut to 50 ft/lbs, you're supposed to spin the rotor a few times to set the bearings, then back the inner nut off 1/4 turn. If you don't back it off it will overheat the bearings and cause repeat failures. After backing it off you install the lock washer, and torque the outer nut to 50-75 ft/lbs. The bearings are supposed to have a minute amount of play that will be barely noticable if you grab the tire and shake it up and down. If you want to tighten it up some due to death wobble issues or something after backing the inner nut off 1/4 turn you can turn it by hand only (no ratchet) til its snug. That is what I do on my front 60.
 
ive had two friends blow a warn hub out like nothin... i put stock hubs in there place and they havnt had any issues since. just sayin
 
my $0,02...
in line with Tim C, we have always done wheel bearings with a "weight-of-the-wrench" tightening. Simply tighten and loosen the bearings several times while turning the hub to seat the bearings and then only tighten the inner nut as much as the weight of the ratchet will tighten the nut. then install the washer and tighten the outside nut tight (Im usually about 75 lbft) This is how we did wheel bearings on our NASCAR Stock cars and I have used this method on every other front and rear wheel bearing I have done. you cant hardly under tighten a tapered bearing. It may just wobble. But an overtightened bearing will heat up and fail

As far as the Warn hubs go, They are good stuff. If they fail after ya quit fryin bearings then you may actually have a hub issue!
 
Thanks for all the input guys, I got a new hub today and bearings/seals.

But after getting it all back apart I found the major issue. The axle is a 79 f150, the hub I was given is a 95 f150 fo they are a small fraction different. But mainly the rear seal is the difference. So now I have to run to the junkyard tomorrow and pull the right hub. Had to modify a seal to work temporarily but it does work. And doing the bearings the way you stated works great!

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