well, most drums have hard lines that run into the wheel cylinder because they don't actually move they don't need a flex line. but on most discs, they float back and forth as the pads wear down and as the brakes engage. so basically all your going to need is a flex line that will attach to whatever type caliper your going to use and then to your hard line. you can choose whether or not you want to drop them down indivudually at each wheel or keep the T on the axle. I'd keep the T.
Do you have pics of your brake lines for the Dana 25? I did the swap on my Dana 27. All i did was bolt the calipers on and run the proper rubber line from the caliper up to the frame, where i connected it to the existing hardlines. Wasnt hard at all, and worekd out great. Only issues is you might not get enoguh push from your master cylinder, unless you swappped it out already. Some people seem to be fine and others don't. I wasnt good so i went with a hanging pedal setup and a later disc brake MC. Defiantely 1000%% over the 9 inch drums.
I will send some pics, I herd that you had to take a pressure valve out of the master cyl, and use larger lines. Was it a pain to add the hanging pedal? That sounds like a good idea. The last hill climb I went up, my brakes would not hold me, I smoked down the hill backwards. Now I need a new seat because my butt ate the last one,lol
I think alot of the vavles are already out of the MCs. I added a wilwood valve inline to the fronts because you have to have a certain "preload"
Do you have a CJ5 or a flatty? For a CJ5, it would be easy, you just get the pedals, column adn dash from a 72-75 CJ5 and bolt it on, but of coruse you would also need to do the saginaw steering conversion to use the column. For for a flatfender i am not too sure. i had a flatty for a little bit and if i recall it seemed differnt on the firewall area to put hanging pedals, but that was very long ago
It's a cj5, I may have to grab the old tool box and head to the junk yard, no cj's there but there is a astro van, I need there hub and rotor also. Thanks for the info.
Yes it will. One thing to look for is to make sure the backside of the hub is "flat" at times there is still some casting left and it isnt totally flat and will make the rotor be off a bit.
You may have to take it to be machined unless you can grind it smooth. There will be some ribs that helped strengthen it, so it isnt smooth. just make sure the ribs have been machined down enough that the rotor will have zero runout. You could try grinding it. Shoot a pic if you can, i think it is ribs you are talking about.