Dana 44 ford crossover steering help

[Van-go]

I have a full width ford Dana 44 from an f250 with Chevy flat top knuckles on it.
Previous owner installed crossover steering.
I think he put the drag link to the wrong hole in the high steer/crossover arm.
(I would like someone to verify that this right or wrong)

I think he did this to achieve a tighter turning radius.

I am in the process of installing hydro assist and am wondering if this is going to cause any issues.
The only thing I can think that it would do is cause the tie rod to have a longer motion.
I have an 8 inch ram that I am installing.

I have attached a couple photos to help out.

I guess I'll stop for the night until I figure this out.

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[Van-go]

I'm gonna be working on it again tomorrow. If anyone has any answers/info I would appreciate it.
Thanks!


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[brandon.]

It would require less motion for any given angle of steer but at the expense of more force required

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[WARRIORWELDING]

In general the steering link from tire to tire is usually the inside (DUH ON ME) holes in steering arms. The link from steering arm to steering box is most always the outer (DUH ON ME). This is mostly just due to better packaging since the box (LANDS IN A PARTICULAR PLANE< AGAIN DUMASS ME) and swapping them would make it physically impossible to cycle without smacking on one another. In the case of full hydro (not assist like your doing) it is a matter of packaging and cycle distance. I prefer shorter arms and tucked in since leverage isn't lacking on such a set up. Just the opposite shear forces are greater and unbalanced or poorly engineered set ups will break arms off.
Put everything steering straight ahead and use a square to find and mark center. Hold square and cycle to full lock both directions. Mark at the end of each stroke. Each side off center adds up to the needed stroke. I like for my systems to fall short of a full lock on the knuckles. This saves from the ram or heavy impacts from stressing the knuckles.

Edited for web wheeling arm chair thunkin instead of thinking through fast to comment dumbass self......

 

[Van-go]

In general the steering link from tire to tire is usually the outside holes in steering arms. The link from steering arm to steering box is most always the inner. This is mostly just due to better packaging since the box is farther back and swapping them would make it physically impossible to cycle without smacking on one another.

So you're saying that the P/O installed the drag link correctly?
When i am at full lock, the ears on the outer axle shafts actually hit the inner shafts... I have not set up stops yet.
Everything i am finding for high steer online, is showing the drag link attaching to the outer most hole.

Should the drag link be in a different hole when doing just crossover steering?

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

Yes your right.. I had it in my head backwards. What I get for computer wheeling at work. I have set up full hydro on my last few builds and the extra hole wasn't needed. I had the steering box relationship backwards in my head. I was trying to explain the obvious, but the picture in my head had the box and arm alignment in the wrong place. SORRY.. gonna edit my stupidity.
As for ear touching I would limit that by ram stroke, or mechanical stops. even if you weld some bumps to the knuckles.

 

[Van-go]

Yes your right.. I had it in my head backwards. What I get for computer wheeling at work. I have set up full hydro on my last few builds and the extra hole wasn't needed. I had the steering box relationship backwards in my head. I was trying to explain the obvious, but the picture in my head had the box and arm alignment in the wrong place. SORRY.. gonna edit my stupidity.
As for ear touching I would limit that by ram stroke, or mechanical stops. even if you weld some bumps to the knuckles.

10-4, I will be moving the drag link and welding up the ram tomorrow. We'll see if that limits it good enough. If not, ill be making some stops.
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it.

I don't feel like spending almost $200 on another high steer arm and studs for the driver side, which would get everything up out of the way...
My tie rod has some rock rash but has held up fine.
I'm worried about hitting the ram on rocks though, with it positioned between the tube and tie rod.
What's your opinion on making a plate that extends forward from the bottom of the axle tube to protect the ram?

Or is there a better way to mount the ram that I am not thinking of that would bring it up?


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[WARRIORWELDING]

Last one I did was a double ended full hydro.

Any tube or plate out front will be protection. Biggest worry or key is mount the ram parallel and directly in line with the travel of the intended steering link. If not it will roll the tie rods or hiems and put twisting stress on them. The assist or ram will spin the rod till it bottoms then push the knuckle. This adds unwanted side loads. Place the rigid end parrallel to what ever tab and hole arrangement and dead nuts on equal centerline to help keep this to a minimum. Double ended rams are not as sensitive, but the flatest travel for its members makes for less side loading of the cylinder.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

I know for a fact this is a Ford 44. Not high steer but it's the same principle. Notice you can't see the ram. Its in the same plane and centered up with the steering link. It is also on center parrallel from the top view so no side loads. Do the same top, botttom, front or any position around the link. Just same plane on center parrallel.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

Xjsavage has a build up right now. Check his out little different execution. Hits the parrallel and on plane points. And he has ran his flavor on a couple rigs with zero issues..or so the Magician claims. Whatch out for the wizardry it'll suck you in. One of the many I'd like to shake hands with and share a beer or two with on this forum.

 

[Van-go]

I really appreciate the info. I'm just Slowwwwwly building this thing in my driveway, and in shops that friends let me borrow. I appreciate all the info, it helps me out a lot.


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