Dana 44 Front 8-lug >> Ford vs Chevy

Gavin G. Dennis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2018
Location
Charlotte
As I try to sift through the various parts options to build my 67 Patrol, I bought a set of 8 lug Ford TTB hubs to put on my J20 front axle (full width D44). The problem I ran into is that i couldn't figure out a brake caliper option because the ford stub axle is 5 bolt and everything else is 6 like my Jeep axle. The 8 lug rotors are 12.5" so I can't use the smaller caliper mounting bracket for the 11.5" rotors. So, I bought a set of Raybestos Chevy hubs and rotors but still don't have a clear brake caliper solution. So, I thought I would measure both kits and hopefully help someone that is building a Frankenstein like I am.

The brake rotor thickness varies only about 1-2mm measured at the braking surface.

The outside flange or wheel mounting surface differs by 11mm. The Ford is 11mm higher (when flat on the floor) than the Chevy. This pushes the braking surface 11mm inboard with the Ford Rotor.

The flange face of the hub is 10mm higher on the Chevy than the Ford (83mm vs 73mm respectively).

So, the installed difference is that the braking surface is 21 mm inboard on the Ford when compared to the Chevy. They both use the same bearings and races but I am not able to measure the bearing race locations in comparison to each other which is another measurement that would come into play when building a piece-meal axle like I am.

Anyway, I hope this helps the group. Please add any info and experiences that you have.

Gavin
 

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Change everything from the balljoints out. Knuckles, spindles, stub shafts, rotors, calipers, etc.

Pick Ford or Chevy and use everything from that application. I prefer Chevy stuff. Ford had some janky caliper mounts and securing hardware way back in fhe day.
 
Because I started out planning to use 6 lug, I only have those caliper mounts and I don't have anything for the 8 lug setup. Like you, I would prefer the chevy's because of the caliper mount. If you know of any available, please let me know.
 
From when I was looking into it, 5 and 6 lug stuff is all compatible if you get matching knuckle spindle brake bracket. The 8 lug stuff Is different. You’d need knuckle out to match, but you get 4 piston calipers and a cast brake bracket
 
I believe you need the 3/4ton brake caliper bracket. It could be one for a J20 or for the chevy. Then you should be able to use the Chevy or Ford 8 lug rotor. The jeep knuckles and chevy knuckles should basically be identical.

It's been a while, but I recall the ford caliper bracket mounts underneath the spindle, next to the knuckle, and the Chevy mounts on top of the spindle. If you compare the chevy/jeep vs the ford spindle, you will see the height difference.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
It's been a while, but I recall the ford caliper bracket mounts underneath the spindle, next to the knuckle, and the Chevy mounts on top of the spindle. If you compare the chevy/jeep vs the ford spindle, you will see the height difference.
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I believe you're right. Ford and GM were consistently different with ½ ton through 1 ton stuff. My 79 Ford 60 is kuckle/caliper bracket/spindle. GM 60 in the CUCV is knuckle/spindle/caliper bracket. Same for 44s and 10 bolts 👌
 
Ford had 1/2 and 3/4 ton setups with no compatibility to Chevy/ jeep which have interchangeable parts, if you use a small bearing spindle on Chevy jeep knuckles you can run ford hubs and 5 lug, otherwise they fall into 4 categories. Chevy/jeep big or small bearing spindles 6 on 5.5(attach with 6 bolts spindle to knuckle with brake bracket over spindle), ford 1/2 with 5 bolts spindle to knuckle 5 on 5.5, and ford 3/4 ton (came on f250 rare) 8 lug with special cast brake bracket and 4 piston calipers.

The 8 lug stuff is it’s own animal and should be treated as such. Best to get aftermarket Chevy/jeep knuckles and small bearing spindles if you need 5 lug or big bearing if you need 6.

There are also long and short stub shafts. Warn premium and Yukon locking hub mechanisms need long, regular warn or mile marker can use the small.

Solid knuckles are cheaper than Reid. Ruff stuff makes billet spindles that are tits. Bjs off-road sells all the Chevy/ jeep stuff cheap, bronco graveyard for ford stuff. I got chrome shafts and knuckles to warn premium hubs for a little more than $1,000 a few years ago and I don’t think they’ve upped prices much.

Bonefish fab makes a no weld ball joint eliminator (I could only get the lower to work) which I used stock Dana uppers (didn’t want the splined bj’s in a new hole) there is another brand that replaces the upper but it requires welding to the knuckle and used stock lowers (lowers take the load).

Sky’s off-road makes a knuckle gusset that doubles as a shock/ coil over mount
 
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