dana 60 ball joints

Charles Smith

Charles Smith

smitty1371
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Location
ellerbe nc
got a 98 dodge dana 60 I'm bout to replace the ball joints. Is there anything special I need to know? I've searched on Google I can't find anything. I've got a ball joint press and I know how to get the unit bearings and stuff out I'm just trying to be prepared. so my question is is there anything special in the installation? or is it just press them out press them in and bolt the knuckle back to the axle this is my dd so I want to limit my downtime.
 
The dodge D60 uses a shim sleeve to set the upper ball joint for camber angle. Once you get the ballpoints in take it to an alignment shop. Get the reading and then you may have to buy the appropriate shim to get you in spec.
 
ok thanks so there's no spanner sleeve thing like on older d44 uppers? like that don't mind that it's eggshaped lol just the only picture I had 20171101_170148.jpg
 
BB71800E-BB81-4067-95DD-A8C2BFE0C8EA.jpeg
They look like this. There is a flat edge cast in to the knuckle and depending on how you rotate the sleeve gives you different adjustment (front, back, in, out, or combo of them). I got my readings and bought the sleeves at the alignment shop then put them in myself. It’s not bad to swap them out. Take weight off, take tire off, remove upper bj nut and it is right there. Use a hammer and punch to knocks them loose /up and out then slide the new one in its place. On top of the sleeve it should have degree increments so you know what it will achieve. A little math is necessary as the ones in there may or may not be positive or negative to begin with. Mine both happened to be 0* from the factory so mine was easy. Mine was a 97 2500 4wd with a small lift an 35’s but once it was all dialed in it was a whole new beast!! Hope this makes sense.
 
skyhighZJ said:
View attachment 258340 They look like this. There is a flat edge cast in to the knuckle and depending on how you rotate the sleeve gives you different adjustment (front, back, in, out, or combo of them). I got my readings and bought the sleeves at the alignment shop then put them in myself. It’s not bad to swap them out. Take weight off, take tire off, remove upper bj nut and it is right there. Use a hammer and punch to knocks them loose /up and out then slide the new one in its place. On top of the sleeve it should have degree increments so you know what it will achieve. A little math is necessary as the ones in there may or may not be positive or negative to begin with. Mine both happened to be 0* from the factory so mine was easy. Mine was a 97 2500 4wd with a small lift an 35’s but once it was all dialed in it was a whole new beast!! Hope this makes sense.
Click to expand...


makes perfect sense thanks for the info so would it be a good idea while it's all apart to go ahead and knock that sleeve loose in case I do need to swap it out?
 
also how far out was your axle? these are the original ball joints with 300k on them is it likely my axle will be out of alignment too? it's all been highway miles no hard wheeling it's been off road but nothing serious
 
I would soak them and knock them loose just as precaution to what may come. Mine were out on both sides a couple degrees. Driver side was worse if I remember. I’m not sure if it had ever been changed until I did it so no telling what had been done before. My alignment guy said that he had seen all sorts of shims in them from the factory so no telling what may be in there factory or not. And, depending on the BJ you put in may be slightly different from stock (which was my situation) I used Napa gold greasables and was very happy with them. I also reassembled with anti seize so changing out the shims was too easy later.
 
skyhighZJ said:
I would soak them and knock them loose just as precaution to what may come. Mine were out on both sides a couple degrees. Driver side was worse if I remember. I’m not sure if it had ever been changed until I did it so no telling what had been done before. My alignment guy said that he had seen all sorts of shims in them from the factory so no telling what may be in there factory or not. And, depending on the BJ you put in may be slightly different from stock (which was my situation) I used Napa gold greasables and was very happy with them. I also reassembled with anti seize so changing out the shims was too easy later.
Click to expand...

ok thanks
 
skyhighZJ said:
I would soak them and knock them loose just as precaution to what may come. Mine were out on both sides a couple degrees. Driver side was worse if I remember. I’m not sure if it had ever been changed until I did it so no telling what had been done before. My alignment guy said that he had seen all sorts of shims in them from the factory so no telling what may be in there factory or not. And, depending on the BJ you put in may be slightly different from stock (which was my situation) I used Napa gold greasables and was very happy with them. I also reassembled with anti seize so changing out the shims was too easy later.
Click to expand...



got them all installed with new unit bearings and a new trac bar as well got lucky the alignment shop said I was right on the money thanks for the help all in all it was an easy job other than the fact I had to do it in my driveway after work in the dark lol
 
skyhighZJ said:
The dodge D60 uses a shim sleeve to set the upper ball joint for camber angle. Once you get the ballpoints in take it to an alignment shop. Get the reading and then you may have to buy the appropriate shim to get you in spec.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't you be to know the existing sleeve degree to change it to the proper new sleeve? Example - if your existing sleeve was 2* and you needed 4* more, you'd need a 6* sleeve, right? Unless stock was always 0, but I think someone said they vary, which makes sense due to manufacturing tolerances...
 
yeah that makes sense luckily mine were 0 and very clearly marked I reused mine to take it to the alignment shop but turned out I didn't need new ones
 
If you have an angle finder or a good phone app, you can check your caster and camber at home fairly easily before you head off for an alignment.
 
@a_kelley it can be so simple but the shims I had in mine were not marked so there was no telling until we did the hokey pokey a couple times with different shims to establish a baseline. Luckily the guy here didn’t charge me until he actually made the final alignment.
 
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