Dana 60 caster setup

78mudbugg

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Location
granville co.
ok so 78 f150 placing dana 60 front & rear the factory spec for caster of Dana 44 is +1-+5.5 degrees
what are yall setting the castor on? I've read 7 degrees on pirate just want more opinions

Thanks
 
I think mines around 5 or 6 positive caster. It's a trade-off with pinion angle though, unless you cut and turn the inner c. More positive caster is a downward pointing pinion and that make u joint bind more likely.

Generally the more positive the caster the better it'll drive, caster is what returns the steering to center after a turn and more caster wants to go straight down the road. More caster also helps prevent death wobble for the same reasons.

Basically unless you're cutting the c and turning it get as much caster as you can before the driveshaft binds at full drop.
 
Pretty much with any kingpin 60 I've dealt with, I've gone for 3-5 degrees positive. I think I even set my SD60 around 4.5 positive in my 2500HD. The worst part about the 78-79 Ford 60s is the relationship between the pinion and the inner Cs. It's a terrible angle that all but negates the fact that it's a high pinion axle! They worked well with the shape of the frame, leaf springs, and (often times) a divorced transfer case in their factory applications though.

So, really, as long as you've got at least 3 degrees of positive caster, you'll be pretty much good to go. More is better, but like was previously mentioned, gotta keep the pinion angle in mind.
 
Pretty much with any kingpin 60 I've dealt with, I've gone for 3-5 degrees positive. I think I even set my SD60 around 4.5 positive in my 2500HD. The worst part about the 78-79 Ford 60s is the relationship between the pinion and the inner Cs. It's a terrible angle that all but negates the fact that it's a high pinion axle! They worked well with the shape of the frame, leaf springs, and (often times) a divorced transfer case in their factory applications though.

So, really, as long as you've got at least 3 degrees of positive caster, you'll be pretty much good to go. More is better, but like was previously mentioned, gotta keep the pinion angle in mind.


This.

Depends on how much road usage and pinion angle and front driveshaft style.

With full hydraulic steering and mostly Offroad, I’ve set caster at 0 and even rolled forward slightly to get the pinion happy.

If turning the C’s then I like at 3-6°.

More street use and hydro assist or just power steering 3-6 still works.

Highway use 6-9.

Also depends on whether using double cardan or single joint front driveshaft.

Single joint likes having the pinion parallel to tcase output.

Double cardan likes having pinion pointed at tcase output.
 
Mine is estimated around 5-6. I'll get an exact measurement soon. YJ with leaf front, V8, 37s and 95% street with hydro assist and handles phenomenonaly well.
'04 SD 60.
 
Just measured my k5 that I’ve been using a daily for a year at 6 1/2 degrees. Has a 1.5 diameter ram on it and I’ve ran 38.5s and 39.5s on it. Drives good down the road, cruises great at 60/65 with the 5.38s, and still returns to center pretty well. Before with the 4.10s, 75-80 all the way to uwharrie. My solution for drivelines angle was 1410 at the axle and 1350 CV at the tcase. With the shackle in the rear, the driveshaft will extend on droop a good bit, but never noticed any binding when I took it to the uwharrie last year. With moving the trans/tcase up it helped a good bit with the front driveshaft angle.
 
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I think I set mine at 5-7 degrees.
 
My Old XJ had a KP Ford 60 (1991 model) and it was right at 6*. CV front shaft with no binding. Hydro assist and it was straight as an arrow @ 65-70 down the highway.
 
It’s not ideal but I used to have roughly 1 degree of positive castor on my dana 30 for two years. At the same time my wheels had a lot of back spacing so my scrub radius was right on the money.

It did wonder a bit when the asphalt was wonkey but it never gave me any problems!


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