Dana 60 front locker?

R Q

R Q

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2005
Location
Charlotte
I'm in the planning stages of my front 60 build and was planning to use a Detriot since it has to be geared anyway. Then I see Talton's issue and many comments where there have been problems with Detroits going bad and snapping axles. I do not want a selectable locker in front and not a spool either. I know drop in lockers are what many use. Is there a reason that the Detroits are causing issues or has it been worked through? It's been my go to front locker for years.
 
The shaft breaks and takes out the dog gears in the Detroit. It's been like that forever. You can go with a lunchbox and get similar performance. If anything breaks just change the locker.
 
shawn said:
I don't think it's limited to the D60, either.
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True that. A 14 bolt will do it too! Ask me how I know!

That said, I like my Lock Right. I don't wheel hard like you guys do, but when I lock the hubs and lock it in 4 low...I point it where I wanna go and make it go there. Kinda like today, whenI pulled a burried skid steer out of the back of a cut down. Gotta make it happen!
 
My Mileage has differed. I have run a Dana 60 which was used when I put it in. Ran stock inners for years before I went to Chromos, and finally switched to super joints and since only broke one stub. Never an issue with the Detroit.
 
Lock right. Broken a couple stubs and joints that never hurt the locker.

The detroit self destructs when the shaft breaks bc it unlocks at the immediate loss of torque and resistance due to the broke shaft.

In theory any ratcheting locker that is capable of unlocking when off throttle is prone to the same failure.

Personally I don’t like spools. I like the ability to let off throttle very briefly, locker unlocks momentarily, and then get back on throttle, makes for way easier turning( tighter radius turns). Especially useful on areas like a switchback with elevation change. With a manual it’s super easy to do this bc of clutch modulation. Not sure how it would be with an automatic?

I see the advantage of a spool bc it’s simple, but was annoying at times.

I figure if i ever destroyed the carrier/lock right I’ll pony up and get an arb. It was just cheaper for me in the past to go carrier& lock right vs full case detroit after ditching the spool
 
I've had excellent service from spartan lockers in dana 60's. My current wheeling rig is damn near 6klbs and on 43's. It's been beat like a red headed stepchild and the locker has held up fine.
 
orange150 said:
Isn’t a grizzly basically a Detroit?
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No. I just replaced my Detroit with a Grizzly and there’s a huge difference in the way they’re made. The Detroit is cast and the Grizzly is all billet and machined down. It’s much heavier and made stronger, and Yukon will stand behind it with a great warranty.



You can skip around in this video and see a side by side comparison when we put the ring gear on the Grizzly.
 
orange150 said:
Isn’t a grizzly basically a Detroit?
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It is a full case auto-locker like a detroit, but not a copy. Since Phillip didnt have an empty carrier, a lunchbox wasnt really an option for him.
 
I mean a spool is selectable if you are running hubs. If you are running slugs then grizzly or Yukon. I have a lock right in my K10 and don't beat it too hard but like @Croatan_Kid said it locks like it's supposed to when I get down on it.
 
I'm late to the party but lockers are purely rear application only for something that sees abuse. A spool front rear locker buggy will turn better than a front locker rear spool buggy.
 
I've been running a lock right in my front D60 since 2008. Broke innner shafts outer stubbs and never the lock right. I do beat on it too. Yukon lock outs after breaking stock ones and warn ones. Also run full cromo's now. I broke one of those and didn't hurt the lock right.
 
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