Dana 60 locker????

fordtrucknut

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Joined
May 16, 2012
Location
bedford va
Give me options for Dana 60 35 spline lockers... electric really sounds interesting..but I'm not seeing many options, I'm not really interested in air because of having to add a compressor and such ... ox seems to be well recommended, but I have a brand new diff cover that I had to heavily modify to clear my steering.. so I dont particularly want to mess with that again.. sooo let's here it guys, what are my options
 

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Auburn Electric Locker?

Spool,welded w\full hydro
Detroit,Ratchet locker w\hydro assist

I used to think a front spool was whack but if I go full hydro that is what I am doing.

What’s your wheelbase? ARB,ZIP,Ox might be your best option if your wheelbase is short.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Wheelbase is 110ish .. I welded it last night.. havent installed hydro yet.. but it's coming asap.. I'm just not my ps pump is strong enough, so I'm still exploring options
 
I run a Grizzly in my Ranger as well as my DD XJ.
Ranger gets beat like it owes me money for making me do butt stuff. No complaints with the locker
My DD XJ has a Grizzly up front also. Can't tell it's there until.you engage 4wd. Then it brings the traction.
For selectable:
Ox is the strongest, but the cable or air solenoid is susceptible to damage.
ARB is stout, but you gotta know what you're doing so it doesn't leak over time.
E-locker aren't as strong as the other selectable options. Easier to install and such, but IMO more troublesome.
 
Any issues snapping shafts with a grizzly? I've been concerned about shock loading joints due to the locker engaging when the tires are spinning
 
I've not experienced that myself nor have any of the guys I ride with.
I beat my truck pretty senselessly, for real. Granted I'm running really good shafts and joints, so I don't have first hand accounts of potential damage after a shaft breaks. But part of the Grizzly design advantages is less likelihood of collateral damage from shaft failure.
 
fordtrucknut said:
Any issues snapping shafts with a grizzly? I've been concerned about shock loading joints due to the locker engaging when the tires are spinning
Click to expand...
I can’t speak to that as I had chromo shafts and spicer solid core joints. FWIW I think it would be more forgiving than say the bang bang of a ratchet type (spartan) locker.
 
Jody Treadway said:
I've not experienced that myself nor have any of the guys I ride with.
I beat my truck pretty senselessly, for real. Granted I'm running really good shafts and joints, so I don't have first hand accounts of potential damage after a shaft breaks. But part of the Grizzly design advantages is less likelihood of collateral damage from shaft failure.
Click to expand...
So there is no issue with the clutches in the grizzly slipping when 1 tire is in the air or has a lot of pressure on it? How long have you been running the grizzly ?
 
fordtrucknut said:
So there is no issue with the clutches in the grizzly slipping when 1 tire is in the air or has a lot of pressure on it? How long have you been running the grizzly ?
Click to expand...

Grizzly doesn't have clutches. It sounds like you're thinking about an Eaton Truetrac. The Grizzly is the Yukon version of the Detroit Locker.
I've been running one in multiple rigs since 2014.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Grizzly doesn't have clutches. It sounds like you're thinking about an Eaton Truetrac. The Grizzly is the Yukon version of the Detroit Locker.
I've been running one in multiple rigs since 2014.
Click to expand...
I swear I saw a post that said it had clutches which is why I was hesitant to buy one. But I think what I saw was on ebay so maybe the seller was just clueless.. thanks for the info. I'm gonna give my welded diff a chance.. if I cant learn to handle it I'll probably buy a grizzly
 
Man, if you do not run full hydro, a welded front is going to be a pain in the dick. It is all good, ish, while you are moving but if you are nose down trying to turn, you are fixin to get a work out. I wheeled the shit out of my yota with spools front and rear, but I honestly might get a Yukon locker for at least the front. That is with hydro assist as well.
 
BigGreenMonster said:
Man, if you do not run full hydro, a welded front is going to be a pain in the dick. It is all good, ish, while you are moving but if you are nose down trying to turn, you are fixin to get a work out. I wheeled the shit out of my yota with spools front and rear, but I honestly might get a Yukon locker for at least the front. That is with hydro assist as well.
Click to expand...
I'm working on the hydro assist today, I'm not a bit above ripping it back apart and putting a locker in if its unbearable with it welded in front
 
fordtrucknut said:
Any issues snapping shafts with a grizzly? I've been concerned about shock loading joints due to the locker engaging when the tires are spinning
Click to expand...

If you snap a shaft, you run the risk of the shock load destroying the locker. Not the other way around.

The locker doesn't engage when the tires are spinning. It's more like a spool which disengages in certain particular conditions, vs a locker that engages on the fly.

All this to say, if you have quality shafts, I wouldn't be worried and would definitely go with a Detroit Locker or a Grizzly. They are excellent choices and will do exactly what you want.

PS : I have a Detroit in my rig currently. It also gives you a better turning radius.

fordtrucknut said:
Wheelbase is 110ish .. I welded it last night.. havent installed hydro yet.. but it's coming asap.. I'm just not my ps pump is strong enough, so I'm still exploring options
Click to expand...

I run a stock PS pump to turn a buggy on 43s with hydroboost and it's plenty. Your PS pump will be just fine
 
Bebop said:
If you snap a shaft, you run the risk of the shock load destroying the locker. Not the other way around.

The locker doesn't engage when the tires are spinning. It's more like a spool which disengages in certain particular conditions, vs a locker that engages on the fly.

All this to say, if you have quality shafts, I wouldn't be worried and would definitely go with a Detroit Locker or a Grizzly. They are excellent choices and will do exactly what you want.

PS : I have a Detroit in my rig currently. It also gives you a better turning radius.



I run a stock PS pump to turn a buggy on 43s with hydroboost and it's plenty. Your PS pump will be just fine
Click to expand...
Well I got it mobile again, havent hooked the cooler in yet.. does it serve any actual purpose besides keeping the fluid from boiling? It seems to turn as good in 4wd with front welded as it did with front open and no hydro assist. I plan to swap to a Saginaw pump in the future but as soon as I get time I will finish the hydro assist, need to tie up the lines and finish weld the tabs... then I'll go test all this in actual wheeling conditions
 
fordtrucknut said:
Well I got it mobile again, havent hooked the cooler in yet.. does it serve any actual purpose besides keeping the fluid from boiling?
Click to expand...

That it's purpose. And that's kinda important if you're into keeping your pump happy.

Hot fluid = aerated fluid = dead pump.

Do install a cooler and don't push your steering before having one installed.
 
Bebop said:
That it's purpose. And that's kinda important if you're into keeping your pump happy.

Hot fluid = aerated fluid = dead pump.

Do install a cooler and don't push your steering before having one installed.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks, how does the cooler tie in? The one I have has 2 different size fittings
 

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