Death wobble -drop pitman a possible fix?

Tech11

Tech11

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2007
Location
Greensboro
When I lifted my LJ I got death wobble around 40mph. That wasn't too terrible, there was really only one place I had to deal with it (business 40 in W-S) so I just sort of left it alone.

Recently I added wheel spacers to take care of some rubbing issues and now I have death wobble at around 60 mph, which is damn scary.

I've checked everything, and my steering stuff seems tight. None of the wobbly, loose things you'd find when you do your checks on a shop lift. The ONE thing that I think it could be is the lack of a drop pitman.

I got a OME 2" lift. Where I'm in that need it/ don't need it area. You want you're steering components to be as horizontal as possible right? So getting a drop pitman would lower the linkage making things more horizontal and SHOULD put things BACK into the way they should be.

Edit: I have a JKS adj, trac bar.

Drop pitman AND a new steering stabilizer maybe? Original ss, LJ has 58k on it.

Ideas/suggestions.
 
You don't need a drop pitman arm at that height. I would suspect either your lower track bar hole is ob-longed, your caster is to low, or your toe setting is off. On all the TJ's and LJ's I have worked on setting the toe straight up or a 1/16 out and the caster around 4.5* - 5* has always worked for me. :driver:
 
ABadJeeper said:
You don't need a drop pitman arm at that height. I would suspect either your lower track bar hole is ob-longed, your caster is to low, or your toe setting is off. On all the TJ's and LJ's I have worked on setting the toe straight up or a 1/16 out and the caster around 4.5* - 5* has always worked for me. :driver:
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I've read around some more, the jks doesnt use a track bar drop bracket, and that the track bar and drag link should be parallel to each other, I'll look at that, what do I do if the hole is ob longed? Cause to install the bolt you had to wallow the hole out.
 
Get a pitman arm off a zj or wj, have to look up which one, they have a 1.5" more drop than a stock tj/lj. I cured my death wobble ( the real kind ) with it and i only had 2.5 rc lift with 31" ats. Sounds like you just have a heavy wobble but it'll help.
 
looks like you have an adj trackbar. MAKE SURE the damned bolt is TIGHT. I had it bad and put some blue lock tite *semi permanent kind* and wrenched the bastard with a pipe wrench. death wobble is gone now. Some guys are welding them but the lock tite has been working well for me
 
Easiest way I've solved death wobble is to just lay underneath and watch every element while someone steers back and forth. Hidden culprits are cracks in the frame (steering box moves) and hidden bad tie rods that you can't wiggle by hand. Same with axle ball joints. All usually obvious while just observing. Another trick is to have someone push from the side back and forth to see if you got suspension / bushing issues.
I have yet to see DW caused by a bad trac bar angle? Only bump-steer.

Hope that helps!
 
Gonna replace the tie rod and drag link with the rugged ridge HD set up, all new TREs, new ball joints, new steering stabilizer and crank down on the adjustable track bar bolt.

THAT should run it outta there. Right?
 
Needs more caster. with 58k, I doubt anything is worn out. And, as said before 2" lift does not require drop pittman arm.
 
ABadJeeper said:
You don't need a drop pitman arm at that height. I would suspect either your lower track bar hole is ob-longed, your caster is to low, or your toe setting is off. On all the TJ's and LJ's I have worked on setting the toe straight up or a 1/16 out and the caster around 4.5* - 5* has always worked for me. :driver:
Click to expand...

Just read this after my reply...

This guy is right on.
 
No DPA. check. will a front end alignment get me where i need to be or do I need to go to a specialty shop?
 
Seriously, get a pitman arm from my WJ or ZJ ( really thinking its a WJ ). I'm still running stock steering (tre/ss) from 97 100k with that pitman arm and i can run my 33" boggers up to 70mph and have never gotten DW. Its inexpensive and gets you drag link in line with your trac bar and you tie rod will be level. DW is mostly steering geometery IMO, but what do I know.
 
Tech11 said:
Gonna replace the tie rod and drag link with the rugged ridge HD set up, all new TREs, new ball joints, new steering stabilizer and crank down on the adjustable track bar bolt.
THAT should run it outta there. Right?
Click to expand...
Just a warning about this steering setup. I have it on my xj and it is very stout. But with it changing from an inverted y to an inverted t setup it causes alot of roll in the tie rod and draglink with causes a very vauge steering feel. I had bad bumpsteer also after I put it on. I actually needed a pitman arm with less drop than stock due to it raising the draglink up. Since that was not an option I decided to use one of the procomp axle end track bar brackets to lower the track bar down on the axle end. That helped alot and got my track bar and draglink back parrallel. I have also since put polyurethane tie rod end spacers on (goes in place of the dust boot) and it help alot with the tierod rolling back and forth and tigtened up the steering a good bit
 
Lee said:
Just a warning about this steering setup. I have it on my xj and it is very stout. But with it changing from an inverted y to an inverted t setup it causes alot of roll in the tie rod and draglink with causes a very vauge steering feel. I had bad bumpsteer also after I put it on. I actually needed a pitman arm with less drop than stock due to it raising the draglink up. Since that was not an option I decided to use one of the procomp axle end track bar brackets to lower the track bar down on the axle end. That helped alot and got my track bar and draglink back parrallel. I have also since put polyurethane tie rod end spacers on (goes in place of the dust boot) and it help alot with the tierod rolling back and forth and tigtened up the steering a good bit
Click to expand...


good to know, I'll look into that.
 
Everyone on here is giving you good advice from thier experiences. Start with the simple stuff first. Take it to a good alignment shop. With your miles, nothing should be worn out, but it could be tweaked from the trail.
Here is an old trick that really works well. you dont even have to jack it up to test it.
Take a flat blade screwdriver and firmly hold the handle against the frame, or what ever stationary object is closest to the tie rod end or bushing that you are checking. Have a bud turn the wheel to full lock and back a little. Touch the edge of the screw driver lightly against the edge of the chassis component you are testing. Then eyeball if it to see if is moving too much when a load is on it. It will act as a dial indicator. The steering box will apply much more force than you can with a pry bar or by hand. It will show you if any thing is moving too much. It works great, just check each part including your track bar and you will find a problem if it is there. Also tighten the:poop: out of the track bar hardware, like some one else said and locktite it. I use a new lock nut any time I mess with one, Lock nuts and washers are "one use" hardware.

Hope that helps you like it did me.
 
Install caster cam bolts and have it aligned. Save your money for cross over steering. Pro comp makes a good set of bolts that any 4x4 shop can get ahold of and takes 5 min to install.
 
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