Disk brakes for a1967 CJ5?

kaiser715 said:
Did the 67 have a 27 or 30? I forget already.
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D27...

Baker said:
I've got the stock front axle from my 78 cj 5 if h want it
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The D30 will be several inches wider than his OE axle. The next issue will likely be gears... the most common D30 ratio for CJ's was 3.54 and most common D25/27 ratio was 3.73

If you don't want the additional width or messing with potential gear swaps... why not convert it to discs using OE parts?
There are 2 routes:
- Junkyard parts (by far the cheapest) as the early CJ/Jeepster folks have been doing for a LONG time (notice the date of that 4Wheeler article)
- Kit w/ brand new parts from "JeepsterPartsDude". He's a Jeepster enthusiast spent YEARS assembling/debugging this kit to be the best you can buy.

Bear in mind that while your OE drum/drum master cylinder will work (marginally), from personal experience a disc/drum MC *IS* the correct route after the swap.

BTW, this needs to go to GENERAL/NEWBIE TECH! :D
 
I've got an intermediate D30 in mine (Narrow Track is what you want), which is just 3" wider. I think all CJ5's 72-up were NT. Works fine as Chevrolet built most of there 4wd's with wider front. As far as gearing, it depends on if you have the V6 (3.73 most common) or F-head (5.38 most common). You can't get 5.38's for a D30. So, it depends on what gearing you have or how much you want to put into this as to your best route. Most CJ guys go with the first route Dave posted, that is, if they want to keep their D27.
 
actually on my M38,I have 11 inch drums on the front and 10 inch on the rear,a dual MC using "Herm the overdrive guy"'s mount and a MC let's say from a 74-cj5 with drum brakes.It stops on a dime.You can get the backing plates for 11 drums pretty easy and just build them from there but the key to the whole thing reguardless if you go to discs or drums,is mounting the dual chamber MC on the frame and getting the correct mc for the job.I sufferd with the stock mc for years and suffered through several broken lines/no brakes rides back to the parking lot.
 
I agree Jimmy. I have the same drum 11"F/10"R, dual chamber MC setup as you. I can lock mine up on pavement no problem. Cheaper option to look into also.
 
Smokeater said:
Cheaper option to look into also.
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Not sure how you figure that :confused:
Availability & price of still serviceable USED drum parts vs '80's Jeep/Chevy disc parts... favors the discs.
Availability & price of NEW drum parts vs mid-'80's Chevy disc parts... favors the discs.
Ease of assembly, lack of attention (adjusting/diddling/etc) afterwards, & performance (seriously, wet 11" drums suck just as bad as wet 9" drums:flipoff2: )... still favoring discs.

Don't get me wrong, larger drums have their place in the resto/upgrade ranks where no path to discs are possible.
However, there's multiple reasons 4-wheel drum brakes haven't been an OE option for over 40 years! :D
 
I guess that all depends on the shape the used drum setup is in. I only had to buy new shoes for mine. I would have thought the disc stuff was more expensive. But thinking more, the 11" drums are pretty high priced. That's good to know, thanks Dave for the correction.

As far as wet braking goes, have you or someone you know ever used the drilled drums? They say they are pretty good in the wet. Probably alot of work to possibly ruin a good drum though. Just curious as I don't drive my CJ in the rain, you've seen it, it LEAKS!
 
yea,I probably got a hundred dollars in my front drum setup.I'll be honest with you,after dealing with the adjustments and such on the original 9 inch drums,I'll work on more "modern" drum brakes any day and feel like I am one pretty lucky bastard to have em. He has another issue to work out also with his knuckles.He will want to upgrade from bolts to studs in his knuckles for the spindle to mount.From what I remember,the disc brake studs are longer than the drum.Several write ups on that too.
 
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