Distributor Install - Not Seating

BallzF250

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2010
Location
Wilmington
Alright Folks, I need some help. I've got a 1979 F-150 Short Bed with a 400 and a 4spd. I've been chasing starting issues for the past few weeks and have replaced everything in the ignition system but the distributor. Finally pulled out the one that was in there and sure enough it was seized up. It would rotate when cranking the engine, but I couldn't turn the shaft by hand once I got it out...so not good since they should almost free spin. Bought a replacement. Made sure the part numbers cast into the body of the distributor matched up before leaving the store. They're all good. This should work.

I got home and tried to install the new distributor. I previously made the necessary alignment marks, so I know where everything is supposed to be lined up and pointing and what not. I can get the distributor into the block and can get the gears to mess up with the camshaft, but the distributor remains about a quarter of an inch higher than it should be. So I pulled it back out and can see that it's not lining up with the hexagonal oil pump shaft. I've been reading around and I know about the trick to "bump" the engine (crank it) and the distributor should just fall right into place...believe me I have exhausted this method. I've reset Cyl #1 back to TDC and tried the "bump" method again...still no success.

Anyone got any other ideas/methods/options/tricks of masters for getting that damn distributor to seat onto the oil pump shaft? I really REALLY don't want to have to pull the oil pan and what not to reinstall the oil pump from the bottom side.

Oh...I've also tried the 5/16" socket taped to an extension. I can get on to the shaft and it rotates, but I'm not sure what that is supposed to do for me? I'm guessing I can try to anticipate the direction of the shaft when I install it and hope it lines up? Is that the point of doing that method?

All help is appreciated!
 
Just got to hold your mouth right. I remember having the same problem w/my Ford but it finally fell in. I believe I just used a strait screwdriver to center the oil pump driver.
 
Yes.... the cam/dist gear mesh will twist the shaft, going down. Try rotating the oilpump hex slightly and try again, until you find the right spot for them to fit. I would turn the motor w the balancer/crank bolt instead of the starter but I would use the 5/16" down the hole first but i'm no expert.
 
Well I've tried all three methods (starter, handcrank, 5/16"). I guess since I didn't have a beer next to me I wasn't at the top of my game or something. I'll give it another shot with the 5/16" method this afternoon and I'm off on Friday, so I've got all today to try to sweet talk it. I just didn't know if I was missing something or not.

Side note - I read somewhere someone had the same problem and removed their intake manifold and the distributor dropped right in. Does that make sense to anyone? I didn't have to do anything to the intake manifold to get the old one out and there's plenty of clearance to wiggle the distributor a little bit. Just curious to see if I should try this or not. I mean I do have to take it off at some point to swap in a dual plane for my 4barrel, but I kinda wanted to get it started before I start throwing upgrades at it.
 
The oil pump shaft looks ok. It rotates with the socket and extension. The distributor turned when the engine was cranked, but it wasn't nearly like it should be...almost like it was being forced (cuz it was). I couldn't turn it by hand. But at any rate...yes the oil pump shaft appears to be ok.
 
Try putting pressure down on the dizzy while turnin the motor over, might take a few turns but should drop in. I e had a few that just didn't want to go home and that method worked. If not just drink beer and hit thinks with hammers and cuss at it until it works.


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I did that last night. Bumped the starter with a remote thumb switch probably 15 to 20 times. I just let it crank for a few revolutions. I mean it shouldn't take THAT many revolutions to line up...right?
 
The old distributor has been returned for the core...I checked that part numbers to make sure they matched before I left the store.

I went ahead and loaded it up onto the trailer Friday morning and towed it to the shop. I'd been messing with it for about a week and was fed up with it. Figured I'd let it be someone elses problem. They haven't called me back yet.
 
Just found this... Your oil shaft isn't lining up. I think all you have to do is rotate the crank until the dizzy drops right in. What's happening is the oil shaft turns as you remove the dizzy getting out of sequence sometimes to line up with the dizzy gear AND the oil shaft because the shaft has 8 sides (or 6) and the teeth on the gear usually number more than that. What I always do is rotate the crank with a socket by hand a little, try the dizzy, if not falling right in, repeat. May take 3-4-8 tries but it's my common procedure.
THEN find TDC, check dizzy and see if it's do'able to get #1 spark lined up with adequate room to rotate to adjust timing. If not, pull dizzy and rotate 1 tooth and insert. If not falling in, repeat step 1. Then find final TDC, get spark lined up with #1. When all is well, Rock and roll...

Hope that helps?
 
Well here's an update...

The shop called me yesterday morning and said they got it to drop in. Didn't know if I wanted them to chase wires and get it all hooked up right and what not. I didn't want that cuz they said it would probably cost me a few hundred more. I can chase wires...it sucks...but I can do that part. They tried to get it started, but no luck. I tried when I got it back to the house...still no luck. They suggested checking the fusible links, but I don't recall seeing any in the wiring...so I don't know that there are any.

I'm at the point now of ripping the wiring out since it's 33 years old and taking the painstaking task of making a new harness for the whole truck (or just the ignition system) or buying one from Centech or one of the other wiring harness companies. If I do that...I'll probably avoid Painless cuz they are usually $200-300 more.

But that's where I'm at now...figured I'd give ya'll an update.
 
I never was a fan of Ford Electronic Ignition from 76-79. I just run a HEI conversion distributor and 1 wire hook-up when I run into issues of no spark instead of spending all day diagnosing. Much cheaper than a wiring harness and easier. Wow, they are down to $50 now. China and GM must be going broke. Oh yea... They are! :flipoff2: Run a wire to a hot ignition wire (when switch is on) and you're done. Bless the Chinese and GM's heart for them...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Clevel...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
 
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