Downhill Stability Assessment

I'm not convinced you need a full 2500 pack out of a chevy for the rear. Maybe take one of the bottom leafs out? How is your rear shackle angle?

Maybe This...

It's possible I over built both spring packs in search of road stability when I really needed good front and rear sway bars.

Top, bumper, and tire.. plus 3 days
Camping fishing gear used to cartoons carolina squat my 1500 + aal rear pack.

Maybe my solution is to give in, buy a tow rig and trailer. Then I can build for real trails.


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taylor1 said:
I'm not convinced you need a full 2500 pack out of a chevy for the rear. Maybe take one of the bottom leafs out? How is your rear shackle angle?

Maybe This...

It's possible I over built both spring packs in search of road stability when I really needed good front and rear sway bars.

Top, bumper, and tire.. plus 3 days
Camping fishing gear used to cartoons carolina squat my 1500 + aal rear pack.

Maybe my solution is to give in, buy a tow rig and trailer. Then I can build for real trails.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Sorry to see you flopped it man. It is a cool rig! I used to wheel an '89 runner.
I agree with what others have said. Too stiff of springs, especially in the rear, and too much sprung weight.
You could run a wheel with less back spacing and/or go to a wider axle like trail gear or a land cruiser to get a little more stability and stay Toyota.

I like the tow rig idea. I used to drive mine to the flats from Greensboro until I broke a rear driveshaft and had to limp home.

Glad everyone was okay though man. It was nice to meet you.
 
25" ground to bottom of frame just behind driver door. The driveway is not quite level. The front may sit level or 1/2" higher than rear unloaded.

Front shackle and rear shackle.

With me (160lbs) bouncing standing on the front and rear front bumper, both suspension compress about an inch.
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Staggered ramp on both sides. The body appears level from the front and maybe a slight tilt looking from the rear in each case.
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Track width to outside tread. I did remember I don't have the rear 1.25 spacer after switching to the wider 95 model rear axle.
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Mac5005 said:
Rear suck down winch and done?

If the suspension setup is working for you with all other aspects, a $50 winch to suck the rear down will allow you to wheel more before you redo everything.
Click to expand...
I like the suck down winch idea. Easy idea while I tweak the suspension.

The track width can also improve easily. I like the fj cruiser steelies, but may trade or buy something with backspace to gain atleast a couple inches of width.

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Last edited:
update...

Sold the 285 and FJ steelies. Now on the 35 12.50 17 nitto trail grapplers in -12 offset 17x9 aluminum wheels.

Also removed a front leaf, so now back to stock 44044 springs. At the same time went down from TG 5" shackle to Barnes 4" boomerang shackle.

Road stability and ride is much better. Front and rear feels more balanced. Trying it out at the SHOP ride next weekend.

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