Up front you're going to have a hell of a time trying to play your caster angles against your pinion angle, the old Dodges were bad about that. If it were me, I would run a 4 bolt flange on the transfer case and go with a 1350 double cardan at the transfer case and (depending on your driveline angle) you may be able to stay with 1350 at the front axle...maybe 1350 with an offset u-joint. If that wouldn't work, I'd just go to 1410 and not worry about it.
The best thing to do would be point the pinion up at the transfer case and have the inner Cs cut off the axle to correct your steering while letting your front driveshaft work happily. I'm working on a short bed Dodge at the moment and with no more lift than that, it's pushing the angles of a 1350 joint on the front.
The rear is simple though. 1350 yokes at the transfer case and the axle with a regular 1350 jointed driveshaft. I actually just installed it in the truck today and took it for its first test drive. However, with twice the amount of lift, you may need more angle than a 1350 can give you. You can measure all of your driveline angles on the rear to decide what size u joints you need. At this point, with a short wheel base with a lot of lift, it's not so much about using a larger series u-joint for strength, but for its' operating angles.
How long is the rear shaft? What is the vertical distance from the transfer case yoke to the pinion yoke?