Dually rear tires

BIGWOODY

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Thomasville
Why does mine go through two sets of rear tires for every set of front tires? I've tried adjusting pressure up and down and it makes no difference. They aren't wearing unevenly, but they are wearing fast as hell. I've tried cheap tires and expensive ones about 15-20k and it needs rear tires. My other option is to go to 19.5's I guess. Its an 01, 2wd CTD, 6spd, drw. 95% of the time it is driven it has a trailer behind it (not more than 6000 lbs total). Any thoughts???

And yes I've tried driving it like an old lady too...:lol:
 
clutch + power + you = spinning tires

spinning tires = faster wear

only dude i have ever seen spin the tires on his dually in second gear while pulling his trailer with buggy on it.
 
A company called American Force is making the 19.5's in 8x6.5 and you don't need the adapters. It's still expensive as hell but throw a set of those on and I bet your pocket will recover long before you have to buy tires again. Then you can bag it:huggy:
 
Posi or locker in the rear?
My old dodge 96 would kill the rear tires found it was the posi just real tight and the fact I made a lot of tight turns with my foot on the gas. I started getting off the gas some when turning and it helped a lot.
 
Usally the rear outers will be the ones wearing faster on a dually. So make sure they are rotated accordingly. I have 51,000 on the original tires on my 4x4 duramax.
 
Here's the way it was explained to me on the tool truck. Roads are not flat, they are curved or have a bow in them, for water to run off of. With that being said you always have more wieght on the inners or outers when not loaded. After one wears down then the wieght is really on 2 tires than 4. That much wieght on 2 tires make them wear faster. By the way I go through about 4 sets on the rear to one on the front, but I wiegh 19000 with about 75%on the rear axle.
 
Check with Firetoy on here he may have a set of 19.5's with the 8x6.5 pattern
 
Here's the way it was explained to me on the tool truck. Roads are not flat, they are curved or have a bow in them, for water to run off of. With that being said you always have more wieght on the inners or outers when not loaded. After one wears down then the wieght is really on 2 tires than 4. That much wieght on 2 tires make them wear faster. By the way I go through about 4 sets on the rear to one on the front, but I wiegh 19000 with about 75%on the rear axle.

I know what you do but Question for you? What truck you running that will let you carry 14,250 on the rear axle and what axle is it? using 75% of 19000. Thinking your rear tires would last longer if you had two axles, got me thinking thats a lot of weight on one axle. Something like a moving truck? Most the guys around here use what looks like a big bread truck.
As for the road thing its called superelevation and it is set from the center of the road to the edge of travel not counting the paved shoulder in most cases. Its a fixed % and will not go up and down when built. Things do change after it gets built but ther would be no reason that all tires would not make contact all the time. That is the reason we use 8' and 10' flat rollers to make sure that it is put down flat. If there was ups and downs it would hold water and be bad. That is what I do for a living is Design Roads....No I did not do the I40 problem child but I know who did and I see them ever day....:shaking:
 
Posi or locker in the rear?
My old dodge 96 would kill the rear tires found it was the posi just real tight and the fact I made a lot of tight turns with my foot on the gas. I started getting off the gas some when turning and it helped a lot.

I think my white Dodge one is wearing rears better than the black one. it is open, the black one is a tight LS. My inside tire will chirp cornering, fully loaded. That has to have some bearing on this.
 
only dude i have ever seen spin the tires on his dually in second gear while pulling his trailer with buggy on it.


But it's fun!
 
I know what you do but Question for you? What truck you running that will let you carry 14,250 on the rear axle and what axle is it? using 75% of 19000. Thinking your rear tires would last longer if you had two axles, got me thinking thats a lot of weight on one axle. Something like a moving truck? Most the guys around here use what looks like a big bread truck.
As for the road thing its called superelevation and it is set from the center of the road to the edge of travel not counting the paved shoulder in most cases. Its a fixed % and will not go up and down when built. Things do change after it gets built but ther would be no reason that all tires would not make contact all the time. That is the reason we use 8' and 10' flat rollers to make sure that it is put down flat. If there was ups and downs it would hold water and be bad. That is what I do for a living is Design Roads....No I did not do the I40 problem child but I know who did and I see them ever day....


Umm, the curve in the road is called a crown. It's slope is -2% or 1/4" per foot from center towards the outside.:shaking: I've never thought too hard about it but Snappy's philosophy seems right on the money to me. On average, the truck will be leaning more towards the passenger side than setting straight up. But not by mutch but I bet it does make a difference.
Superelevation is what you get in curves and does not have a set slope at all.:shaking: The outside crown levels out to +2% upward and the slope goes from the normal 2% up to 6% in the center of the curve. And then comes back down to 2% before the outside transitions back down to -2% :shaking::shaking:
I design roads too. :) And I'm kinda glad you didn't design I-40 or it might be worse.:lol::beer:
 
Umm, the curve in the road is called a crown. It's slope is -2% or 1/4" per foot from center towards the outside.:shaking: I've never thought too hard about it but Snappy's philosophy seems right on the money to me. On average, the truck will be leaning more towards the passenger side than setting straight up. But not by mutch but I bet it does make a difference.
Superelevation is what you get in curves and does not have a set slope at all.:shaking: The outside crown levels out to +2% upward and the slope goes from the normal 2% up to 6% in the center of the curve. And then comes back down to 2% before the outside transitions back down to -2% :shaking::shaking:
I design roads too. :) And I'm kinda glad you didn't design I-40 or it might be worse.:lol::beer:
Crown point is the is the center of the road, or the point on the road the super is projected from, most of the time the grade point. It can be normal crown with the center being the highest point or RC, but what is applied to the road is SE, or Super. Look at the green book or the standard drawings book or the design manual for more info I'm sure no one else wants to hear it from us.... My point is and was that the road is rolled out flat at a 2% super (or SE per the design) or crown what ever you understand, with a roller that is 10' wide. I do not see how a DRW truck would have more pressure on the inboard tires next to the springs then the outside on a flat surface in this case the road that was made with a steel roller that is 10' wide or wider in some cases.

BTW What you said is part true "-2% or 1/4" per foot" It is 1/4" per foot but the Feds and State all like it to be shown as .0208 in true math, be it that you wanted to bust my chops and did not even get the point of what I was saying, just thought I would point it out for you.
Also the Curve in the road is called Horizontal curve or Vertical curve if you must know. And you should know that smart ASS. Because you design roads........

Ever think that people call things different names but they are all ok, we may go by the book and to someone else its all crown? But to someone that has been doing it for many years we all know what they are talking about...
I have trained people from many states and many different schools and some of the things they were told were BS but I never told them that I help them to learn the way we like to do it and they turn out OK....
PM me who you work for, If you do any work in the state it all comes and goes in our office....
 
Look didn't mean to start a pissing contest. That was just the was it was explained to me. As far as what I've got it's a frieghtliner. And yes I carry about 14000 on the rear axle. I choose not to go with a tandem rear axle set because most have air brakes and are rated over 26,000lbs, so cdl's would be required. Alot more money involved, plus I've been told by more than one mech. that I'd eat one set of tires faster due to turning in so much(basicly draging the rear set of tires).
 
both of my drw dodge eat rear tires, neither are over loaded very often. the problem got ALOT worse after stump f....d with my injector pump:confused:

i think................22.5's:driver:
 
My TJ and XJ ate rear tires, my Passat eats front tires. I think it is an issue with a broken throttle return spring.
 
plus I've been told by more than one mech. that I'd eat one set of tires faster due to turning in so much(basicly draging the rear set of tires).
You do a lot of turning getting in and out of places so I bet it would kill tandem axle tires fast. I'm sure the turning has as much to do with it as with weight on your tire wear. If you were on the road just driving from town to town they would last longer. With that truck at least you got big tires.....
 
A good case of rightfootitis
 
Crown point is the is the center of the road, or the point on the road the super is projected from, most of the time the grade point. It can be normal crown with the center being the highest point or RC, but what is applied to the road is SE, or Super. Look at the green book or the standard drawings book or the design manual for more info I'm sure no one else wants to hear it from us.... My point is and was that the road is rolled out flat at a 2% super (or SE per the design) or crown what ever you understand, with a roller that is 10' wide. I do not see how a DRW truck would have more pressure on the inboard tires next to the springs then the outside on a flat surface in this case the road that was made with a steel roller that is 10' wide or wider in some cases.
BTW What you said is part true "-2% or 1/4" per foot" It is 1/4" per foot but the Feds and State all like it to be shown as .0208 in true math, be it that you wanted to bust my chops and did not even get the point of what I was saying, just thought I would point it out for you.
Also the Curve in the road is called Horizontal curve or Vertical curve if you must know. And you should know that smart ASS. Because you design roads........
Ever think that people call things different names but they are all ok, we may go by the book and to someone else its all crown? But to someone that has been doing it for many years we all know what they are talking about...
I have trained people from many states and many different schools and some of the things they were told were BS but I never told them that I help them to learn the way we like to do it and they turn out OK....
PM me who you work for, If you do any work in the state it all comes and goes in our office....

I hit a nerve! :fuck-you: Someone hold this cat while I soak it and stroke all it's hair backwards!!!:huggy:
Back on subject. I back the philosophy that 2.0833333333 (fuckin eternity of 3's to be exact)% slope is enough to shift a load and wear an outside tire faster.:flipoff2:
 
Check with Firetoy on here he may have a set of 19.5's with the 8x6.5 pattern

Those wouldn't have near enough bling for Greg's dually.

You should go ahead, break down and buy some 19.5 or 22.5s and be done with it.
 
You've got the same problem as me... My '03 CTD goes through rear tires....I've got a set of 19.5's to go on it I'm just waiting til I can get the tires(OUCH)

I got my 19.5's for $25 ea and they are already the matched 8-lug pattern...no spacers The tires run around $275(IIRC) for steer tires and about $100 for retreads for the rears
 
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