Dumb question.

JSJJ388

JSJJ388

GREEN GREMLIN
Joined
Aug 31, 2016
Location
HAMPTONVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA
So I've looked online, and haven't found a solid answer. I'm running new fuel line on my 87 C10. Going to an edlebrock carb on a mildly built 350. What size line? Engine isn't anything crazy. Slight bore and a towing cam. Also, what does everyone suggest for a backflow valve? IE, to prevent gas running back to the tank warn the truck is not running.

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Just go buy a roll of 3/8” rubber fuel line (make sure it’s not FI rated or it’s $$$) and a some of these: LOKMAN 20 Pack 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp, Metal Clamp, Tube Holder for Tube, Pipe or Wire Cord Installation Amazon product ASIN B01HPE188Q In line filter on the frame rail pre pump and a filter as it shows in the picture between the pump and carb. Send it.
 
skyhighZJ said:
Just go buy a roll of 3/8” rubber fuel line (make sure it’s not FI rated or it’s $$$) and a some of these: LOKMAN 20 Pack 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp, Metal Clamp, Tube Holder for Tube, Pipe or Wire Cord Installation Amazon product ASIN B01HPE188Q In line filter on the frame rail pre pump and a filter as it shows in the picture between the pump and carb. Send it.
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Thanks. I've seen everything from 1/4 to 5/8 recommended.
 
skyhighZJ said:
And no check valve needed. The float bowels will hold fuel to get it started and the pump will be refilling the carb long before they run out of go juice.
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Ok. I've had to bottle feed it to start ever since I bought it.
 
Should be gas in the bowel. I’m no carb expert so maybe someone will chime in but maybe check the float and needle to make sure fuel isn’t pushing past it due to getting hot and expansion?? Edelbrocks aren’t hard to pull the top plate off to get to the guts.
 
skyhighZJ said:
Should be gas in the bowel. I’m no carb expert so maybe someone will chime in but maybe check the float and needle to make sure fuel isn’t pushing past it due to getting hot and expansion?? Edelbrocks aren’t hard to pull the top plate off to get to the guts.
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Should clarify, I have to drip feed it gas when I first crank it. I'm no expert either, especially woth edlebrock.
 
Sounds like something is not working right. With it off if you look down the carb hole when you hand crank the throttle is there gas squirting in? Also does it stumble on acceleration?
 
skyhighZJ said:
Sounds like something is not working right. With it off if you look down the carb hole when you hand crank the throttle is there gas squirting in? Also does it stumble on acceleration?
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No, and yes.
 
In all seriousness, have you considered dropping a 6.0 in there? You could keep that trans and everything. You’d pick up a ton of power and economy, plus no more carb.

If you just want to keep it old school I get that for sure. But if you’re unfamiliar, it only takes like 3 wires to run and someone to tune it.
 
77GreenMachine said:
In all seriousness, have you considered dropping a 6.0 in there? You could keep that trans and everything. You’d pick up a ton of power and economy, plus no more carb.

If you just want to keep it old school I get that for sure. But if you’re unfamiliar, it only takes like 3 wires to run and someone to tune it.
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If I swap out anything, it's getting overdrive. But that's just not in the funds right now. I'd settle for just a good holley!
 
JSJJ388 said:
If I swap out anything, it's getting overdrive. But that's just not in the funds right now. I'd settle for just a good holley!
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I certainly understand that. A 6.0/4L80 swap would be awesome in an old truck like that and still getting worked good, not just for fun or show. I don’t deal in carb stuff much but if I run across one soon I’ll let you know.

I just bought a 78 Ford F100 with a big block, it also has a ton of parts in boxes in it. There’s a carb in one of those boxes. Idk what size, or if it’s even interchangeable. Once I get it home and sort it all out I’ll let you know. If it works for you and I don’t need it I’d be glad to make you a sweet deal.
 
JSJJ388 said:
I'd settle for just a good holley!
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A "good" Holley? lol Seriously though, that carb can be rebuilt and that would possibly fix your issue along with replacing your fuel line if its a problem. If you have some spray when working the throttle then the bowl has fuel in it. Theres a carb guy that will rebuild your carb or send you a rebuilt one when you send him your core. I'll try to find him and send to you
 
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Years ago, when most everyone was running carbs, and I was too. I had the same issue has what you are describing. I patched by raising the fuel in the bowl by adjusting the float, helped but didn't fix it. So me at the time knew little about carbs, I bought a cheap fuel pump what would allow fuel to flow though it when it was off (pulling fuel by the mechanical pump) When I went to start it, I would flip a switch giving the electric fuel pump power, hit the switch and start the engine, and then turn off the electric pump until it was needed next. That was on a qaudrajet carb, the edlebrock is less involved. You can pull the top off with it running and see what's going on. Could be something as simple as some build up of trash or bag gas, for sure, it's something between the needle and seat and the fuel inlet.
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone.
 
Bypass the mechanical pump, wire in a cheap carb fuel pump from autozone. Put a cheap 3/8" filter after it and run 3/8" ethanol friendly gas line from the tank.
 
braxton357 said:
Bypass the mechanical pump, wire in a cheap carb fuel pump from autozone. Put a cheap 3/8" filter after it and run 3/8" ethanol friendly gas line from the tank.
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5-7 psi or 7-9? Or does it matter?
 
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