Edit: trailer decking.

skyhighZJ

Gov retirement < needs to live
Joined
May 31, 2012
Location
Aberdeen, NC.
So as I’m rebuilding this trailer a thought came to mind. I’ve removed all the decking and before I screw new decking down should I be worried about verifying it to be square? Maybe I’m overriding it but it’s just side rails and cross beams so it can literally go out of square pretty easy if something was in tension due to XYZ. I hope this makes sense.
 
So as I’m rebuilding this trailer a thought came to mind. I’ve removed all the decking and before I screw new decking down should I be worried about verifying it to be square? Maybe I’m overriding it but it’s just side rails and cross beams so it can literally go out of square pretty easy if something was in tension due to XYZ. I hope this makes sense.
I think if the trailer was built square from the get go, it would be hard pressed to be out of square without noticable damage. Like obvious signs of over weight or an accident. Drag a tape corner to corner if it makes you feel good. I'd just send it.
 
I think if the trailer was built square from the get go, it would be hard pressed to be out of square without noticable damage. Like obvious signs of over weight or an accident. Drag a tape corner to corner if it makes you feel good. I'd just send it.
Kinda my thought and I guess with the decking off it won’t be hard to check real quick. Just me being a bit extra when I’m putting in this kind of work I don’t want to do something wrong.
 
I've seen videos of light weight trailers, with the decking removed. The frames twist like a slinky! The decking is half of their strength! But you have a very Stout trailer. Shouldn't be a problem.
This, even a channel iron frame/Hudson style trailer moves so much you would be chasing your tail trying to square and level it. You'd be a lot better off spending that time replacing the shackles that are guaranteed worn out and suspension hardware
 
So the deck area is 79” wide between the c channel frame rails. Doing the math of 2x6 (5.5” wide) and 2x8 (7.25” wide) I’m trying to determine what’s the best route. 79\5.5”=14.36 which means I’ll have to cut a center strip and 79\7.25”=10.89. Given any PT is gonna shrink should I just go 2x6 and “float the gaps”? Yes I would love to get a good cut oak deck from a mill but here in the Sandhills it is unobtanium to find material in the 16’ range without breaking the bank.


P.S. I don’t math wood very well lol so looking for what others have done.
 
10 2x8s = 72.5”
That’s 6.5” split between 9 gaps or .75 inches between boards - a little less if you cheat the outside board in a half inch or so each
 
So the deck area is 79” wide between the c channel frame rails. Doing the math of 2x6 (5.5” wide) and 2x8 (7.25” wide) I’m trying to determine what’s the best route. 79\5.5”=14.36 which means I’ll have to cut a center strip and 79\7.25”=10.89. Given any PT is gonna shrink should I just go 2x6 and “float the gaps”? Yes I would love to get a good cut oak deck from a mill but here in the Sandhills it is unobtanium to find material in the 16’ range without breaking the bank.


P.S. I don’t math wood very well lol so looking for what others have done.

If you’re willing to take your trailer an hour for rough sawn white oak, shoot me a PM. ”I know a guy.” in New Hill that I can hook you up with. He has a mill and is just an overall great guy! I met him through another forum and he sold me the white oak for my previous trailer.
 
If you’re willing to take your trailer an hour for rough sawn white oak, shoot me a PM. ”I know a guy.” in New Hill that I can hook you up with. He has a mill and is just an overall great guy! I met him through another forum and he sold me the white oak for my previous trailer.
Pm sent.
 
If you’re willing to take your trailer an hour for rough sawn white oak, shoot me a PM. ”I know a guy.” in New Hill that I can hook you up with. He has a mill and is just an overall great guy! I met him through another forum and he sold me the white oak for my previous trailer.
PM inbound!
 
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