electrical question

YotaOnRocks

YotaOnRocks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2007
Location
Madison
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We use an electric heater to help keep fuel oil bill down at the house. Bought the heater a few years ago and it has worked fine until I went to use it the other day when it got cold out.

It seems the on/off switch has burned up. I called and they are sending a replacement but it will be a couple weeks before it gets here.

My question is. The old switch had 20a on the side so I'm assuming it is rated at 20a. It has 3 prongs on the back with wires attached. Can I just pick up a switch from Lowe's that is rated for 20a and make it work until the one that fits in the cabinets hole comes in.

Also I checked the wires and the red one had 120v when checked against the black or white wire or a ground. The black and white had continuity(pretty sure that's what I mean). What wires should I jump to make sure it is just the switch.

Here is a pic of the back of the switch if it helps any.
 
Should be able to, you could use a regular home (light) switch or a toggle that is rated for the same. Ive used automotive toggles on 110v. Most state on them the max voltage and amperage.
 
I am just not sure which wires to connect. Why is there three wires. I know this is probably really simple but I stared at it for 30minutes the other night and couldn't and decided I would ask before I hook the wrong ones together and fry the heater.
 
Does the switch light up? The bulb needs a ground. The other two wires would be hot and switched hot. Probably red and black.
 
There is a fan. But it's just one speed. The only thing you have to do is turn it on by the switch And adjust dial style thermostat on the back.

There is a light on the switch and I figures it's like a auto style switch where the light needs a ground but I can't figure out why when I set the meter to test for continuity it beeped when I hooked it to the two that didn't test hot.
 
YotaOnRocks said:
There is a fan. But it's just one speed. The only thing you have to do is turn it on by the switch And adjust dial style thermostat on the back.

There is a light on the switch and I figures it's like a auto style switch where the light needs a ground but I can't figure out why when I set the meter to test for continuity it beeped when I hooked it to the two that didn't test hot.
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Because it's a coil. The meter will find continuity either through the light bulb (coil) or the heating element (coil) or the fan motor (coil) if you put one lead on the hot and one on the ground.
 
Looking at it I believe your right. Red and black are hot wires and white is ground but how could I verify so I don't damage anything?
 
Call Ferguson HVAC in Winston at (336) 896-1452, give them the numbers off the back of that switch and see if they can cross it over to something that they have in stock. The branch in Charlotte has saved me a few times.
 
Can you step back a couple steps and take a picture?
Or can you tell us where those wires end up at?

Just a guess without a schematic or a more overall picture But I suspect power comes in on 1 wire and then leaves the switch headed separately to the fan and the heater coil.
 
Thanks for the offer Mark if I can't find one I'll head over your way.

Here is a pic of the wires and the schematic on top of the heater cabinet,
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