Engine Knock - Ugh!

ckruzer

ckruzer

Infidel
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Location
asheville nc
oil cooler gasket leaked. it had a small drip that i needed to fix, but looks to have gotten real bad on the way back from marshall. ended up running on low oil, and now have the knock (very mild) at idle. goes away with rpm. haven’t verified if its low end or top end. been reading up and gunna toss in heavier oil with some Prolong. Any other suggestions?

(how low did it run? about 1/4 inch on dipstick running, and 1/2 inch when off. never lost oil pressure. i would guess in ran low for about 8 miles or so in city traffic)

Also while at it. The tcase and trans are leaking from the clocking ring. gunna have to separate and attempt seal in a nother manner. Any suggestions? Im hearing great success with Permatex Right Stuff

Thanks
 
If you never lost oil pressure, it should be fine. No idea what motor we are talking about but most dip sticks are well off the bottom of the oil pan. The knock might have been there and you're just noticing it now. Not saying it's all good, just unrelated.

Great Stuff will work well for sealing those mating surfaces. Only downside to it would be getting them apart in the future. It isn't a huge issue but that stuff could substitute for crazy glue.
 
5.3 LS. They all do it. My Yukon from 160k forward has done it. The reason you can't hear it that well in factory trucks is the insulation under the hood. :p
 
@XJsavage has been tremendmous help!

For the record, this is what it sounded like. youll notice its not heard from the bottom end

 
Time for a 6.0?? Lol my 5.7 vortec has a slight knock and its got great pressure and oil color only 160k on it, I've read a few places it can be bottom end bearings since their roller cams but who the hell knows really!? I cleaned my engine out with seafood and it gave it a lil pep back and def helped clean out carbon didn't get rid of knock/tick tho
 
If you never lost oil pressure then you should be fine. Once you start getting under 3 quarts in the motor, that's when it's time to worry.
 
C.Berry said:
Time for a 6.0?? Lol my 5.7 vortec has a slight knock and its got great pressure and oil color only 160k on it, I've read a few places it can be bottom end bearings since their roller cams but who the hell knows really!? I cleaned my engine out with seafood and it gave it a lil pep back and def helped clean out carbon didn't get rid of knock/tick tho
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Seafood? Fresh or saltwater? Does it matter if it is shrimp or fish or lobster or shell fish?

On a more related note, check the oil pan for sludge... If it has sludge, drain it and fill it with 4 cans of chlorinated brake clean and let it sit a few hours and drain and refill with clean oil. Eats it right up.
 
sea foam damnit lol my phone hates me! Late night at work so no spell check on my part! :flipoff2:
 
Being a quart low didn't hurt the motor. It's just mileage and coincidence most likely.

For the trans and t-case they black silicon works very well, but it needs to be 100% clean.
 
don't run a heavier oil, it's actually worse for the engine. On start up it takes linger time to get to the bearings thus causing premature failure.
 
Jeff B said:
don't run a heavier oil, it's actually worse for the engine. On start up it takes linger time to get to the bearings thus causing premature failure.
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Im running some 5w30 synthetic with some Lucas to see what that does
 
cant hear it any more. could hear it a little on startup through first gear. but once it warmed up and the lucas got less viscous and moved around the sound went away quick. and cold start later in the day didnt hear it. if it is still there it is very very light and is coming from the passenger valve cover. not a big deal as the potentially affected cam and push rods will get replaced within a year

thanks for all the help guys!
 
ckruzer said:
cant hear it any more. could hear it a little on startup through first gear. but once it warmed up and the lucas got less viscous and moved around the sound went away quick. and cold start later in the day didnt hear it. if it is still there it is very very light and is coming from the passenger valve cover. not a big deal as the potentially affected cam and push rods will get replaced within a year

thanks for all the help guys!
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with what your saying i gonna say its lifters. every truck ive had, or friends trucks/cars with a ls based has lifter knock on start up common issue. no big deal
 
Loganwayne said:
with what your saying i gonna say its lifters. every truck ive had, or friends trucks/cars with a ls based has lifter knock on start up common issue. no big deal
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My wife's Yukon XL was dead quiet when we bought it at 125,000 miles. It's now at 158,000 and has developed the same lifter noise that every other LS I've ever listened to has... wouldn't be concerned at all.
 
LBarr2002 said:
My wife's Yukon XL was dead quiet when we bought it at 125,000 miles. It's now at 158,000 and has developed the same lifter noise that every other LS I've ever listened to has... wouldn't be concerned at all.
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Yep. Mine was 160k when it got it.
Also, nearly every LS alternator is preset to go out at 175k. Mine was like clockwork. Go ahead and set aside the $ for the high amp Denali alt, they're worth it. ;)
 
XJsavage said:
Yep. Mine was 160k when it got it.
Also, nearly every LS alternator is preset to go out at 175k. Mine was like clockwork. Go ahead and set aside the $ for the high amp Denali alt, they're worth it. ;)
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I'm more concerned about the trans, although I have spares of all that now. I'd hate to have to scavenge from the future jeep drivetrain though.
 
LBarr2002 said:
I'm more concerned about the trans, although I have spares of all that now. I'd hate to have to scavenge from the future jeep drivetrain though.
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I was too but at 210k on mine currently, it's still kicking. There's a place in orangeburg (sunshine) that has tons of 4l60/65 for very reasonable cost if you need a core or two.
 
XJsavage said:
Yep. Mine was 160k when it got it.
Also, nearly every LS alternator is preset to go out at 175k. Mine was like clockwork. Go ahead and set aside the $ for the high amp Denali alt, they're worth it. ;)
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gunna run one of those 320 amp aftermarket ones eventually to run an on-board stick welder. i have stuff so i can use the cable driven cruise control to a lever to control rpms at idle when in use. could all be a dumb idea, but thats my thought direction as far as alternator goes
 
XJsavage said:
I was too but at 210k on mine currently, it's still kicking. There's a place in orangeburg (sunshine) that has tons of 4l60/65 for very reasonable cost if you need a core or two.
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Pm me some details on this, if'n you don't mind. I'm gonna have to do the 65 in my Denali some day, I'm sure. Wouldn't mind having a rebuild set aside for minimal downtime.
 
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