Engine rebuild 101

mbalbritton

mbalbritton

#@$%!
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Lakeland, FL
I've rebuilt transmissions, t-cases, axles, but never an engine. I think I've found a good engine to start with. Pulled 4 out of 8 plugs and they looked pretty typical for an engine of this age. It was burning some oil seeing as the plugs were in good condition but just lack in color. Pulled a valve cover and no real build up, just black with old oil again. Put a wrench on the crank and it spun with little effort for about a 1/4 turn then got difficult to budge.

Is that typical? Or a sign of something? Seller said there was apparently a slight rattle that could possibly be coming from the water pump. We both agreed the pump shaft was tight, but there was a little squeak from the impeller hitting inside, or something like that.

I wouldn't mind pulling the oil pan before the purchase.

From that info, what could one expect or what else should I look at?
 
It probably got hard to turn because you are coming up on a compression stroke on one of the cylinders you didn't remove a plug from. Remove them and spin it over. Generally if the engine is seized it won't turn at all. If you're definitely going to rebuild it, just buy it. You are going to replace (or modify) most everything in there anyway.

If you've rebuilt a transmission, an engine will be a piece of cake. The cylinder head is the most complicated part of it and you really should send them (it) to a head shop anyway for pressure testing etc and while it's there have them do a 3 angle valve job etc.
 
How do you determine if you can get away with a re ring kit or if you need a full on Master install?

I'm guessing once you open it up and take measurements and check the condition of everything.
 
I didnt see what engine you are working on, but here are a few simple tricks that have served me well over the years...

Pull the heads and look at the ridge at the top of the clyd walls. (where the piston rings top out thier stroke). This ridge will be made up a layer of carbon and then the metal wear ridge.

Take your knife and scrape the carbon down to bare metal. If the metal ridge is protuding out from the bore is thick enough to significantly catch your fingernail on it, it needs to be bored out. If it is a minor ridge you can use a ridge reamer and cut it down. You should be able to hone the clyds and simply re-ring it.

As far as reusing the old pistons goes... Be sure and clean out the carbon from the piston ring groves (Where the rings ride on the piston) with an old broken ring. If you dont, the new rings will stick and it will burn oil. An all day soak in diesel fuel really loosens that carbon up. (Gas works better but comes with obvious risks)!

Look for 2 opposing wear patterns down the bore where the 2 piston skirts ride. They can put 2 depressions in the clyd. wall. If there, run your hone over them and see if they clean up. If not, Bore it.

Next, Take the fan belt off the crankshaft. Grab the front of the crankshaft and yank it back and shove it foward pretty hard. This will tell you how worn out the thrust bearing surface on the crank is. It will give you a good idea if you are dealing with a totaly worn out engine, or not. This takes an educated touch, but if it feels like it has a 1/16 or more play in it, you are worn totaly out and should expect a more expensive build.

Hope that helps...
 
Well, you are in luck then! AMC's have more nickle in the cast iron blocks than almost any other engine ever built. This makes them very hard and they resist wear from the piston rings very well. Unless it was starved for oil or has a broken ring scratching the bore, I would expect to still see the factory hone marks in the clyd. wall.

AMC 360's are known for eating "replacement" distributor gears and having a few oiling issues. When you get ready to tear it down just open your eyes for the obvious.
 
Any recommended machine shops in the Greensboro, High Point, Lexington area?

Only place I know is Rotating Dynamics in Winston, but I'd like something a little closer to the house.
 
I used a place off Wendover when I rebuilt my 22r. Called Jamies Machine Shop 4925 Bartlett St Greensboro NC 27409 (336) 292-5017. Super nice guy and he did a great job.
 
Have yet to talk to a machine shop, so I thought I'd ask here.

How far should I tear down the engine before taking it to the shop?

I have zip lock bags that I'm planning to bag all the rockers, push rods lifters, etc into by cylinder and exhaust vs intake.

Just how far stripped down do I go?
 
I am rebuilding a 351m. I spoke to the shop down the street and he told me to take of all, cam bearings, freeze plugs everything.
 
I'm building a 351m also. My shop usually handles the cam bearings and freeze plug r&r, as well as the disassembly and assembly of the heads as far as valve and springs go. Basically I carried them a mostly bare block, with the pistons and crank out, and two fully assembled heads.
 
If you disassemble the whole block remember to mark/ number the crank caps starting from front to rear. Also mark them so you know which side is facing forward. If you plan on reusing the connecting rods also number them (1-8) and also which side is facing forward.
 
^^
That is marked on each piece u mentioned. Each main has an arrow pointing forward and the connecting rods have #'s stamped into the side. Just lime them up and good to go.
 
Back
Top