Excess heat in cab

Loganwayne

Loganwayne

#BTL
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Location
Clyde, North Carolina
I pulled my carpet outta my Cherokee like most people do if they wheel it, besides my doors dont seal good and the carpet would hold water and make it stink. Anyways getting ready to do some major reworking of the Jeep and I'm wandering if I heat wrapped my hole exhaust, possibly including the muffler. Would it help with them temps in the jeep? I think it would but what happens when the wrap gets wet? Or mud on it? The jeep will end up getting a full belly skid so it should keep most of the mud off of it, but will probably also reflect any heat back to the cab. I also plan on spraying lizard skin heat stuff inside but got a couple things to change before I do that.

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Heat wrap on my super Moto's exhaust did nothing that I could tell I used the titanium stuff

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I wouldn't wrap it, unless you have a full stainless exhaust. The wrap can hold water and rot the exhaust if it's not stainless, but that probably won't be an issue if you're wrapping the header/manifold and not the rest of the exhaust under the cab.

You can keep heat in the exhaust, or you can shield the cab floor and trans tunnel. There are various products for this, both for applying under the cab and for applying inside the cab. The nice thing about shielding the cab (instead of just wrapping the exhaust) is that you will also keep out radiated heat from the road, and heat from the engine bay.

And yes, exhaust wrap does help, it just probably isn't the right solution in this case. Racers have used if for many decades to keep engine bay temperatures down.

I've never used the Lizard Skin stuff, but I'm not convinced it will work nearly as well as something like DEI Floor & Tunnel Shield. The DEI shield has a aluminum radiant and a glass fiber conductive barrier (3/16" total), and the Lizard Skin is only a spray on conductive barrier.

Research the DEI stuff, and start looking around at the other floor and trans tunnel heat shield products out there too..
 
Fabrik8 said:
I wouldn't wrap it, unless you have a full stainless exhaust. The wrap can hold water and rot the exhaust if it's not stainless, but that probably won't be an issue if you're wrapping the header/manifold and not the rest of the exhaust under the cab.

You can keep heat in the exhaust, or you can shield the cab floor and trans tunnel. There are various products for this, both for applying under the cab and for applying inside the cab. The nice thing about shielding the cab (instead of just wrapping the exhaust) is that you will also keep out radiated heat from the road, and heat from the engine bay.

And yes, exhaust wrap does help, it just probably isn't the right solution in this case. Racers have used if for many decades to keep engine bay temperatures down.

I've never used the Lizard Skin stuff, but I'm not convinced it will work nearly as well as something like DEI Floor & Tunnel Shield. The DEI shield has a aluminum radiant and a glass fiber conductive barrier (3/16" total), and the Lizard Skin is only a spray on conductive barrier.

Research the DEI stuff, and start looking around at the other floor and trans tunnel heat shield products out there too..
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I looked at the dei stuff. It looks like it could work but didn't see any reviews of it being used on anything but street driven vehicles. Mine has a rubberized coating on the bottom, and im scares that it might peal if it ends up getting wet/soaked threw wheeling

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NCJeeplover said:
I think on an xj, a lot of the heat comes from the transmission. Feel the tunnel next time you take it for a little drive...
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I know the transmissions get really hot on xjs but I've had to run my exhaust really close to the floor board, can literally feel the heat difference running your hand across the floor. It's also 20 degrees hotter on passenger side than driver due to exhaust heat

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Wanna lose 10# over a weekend? Ride in my Ranger for a weekend during summer! Between a lot of motor, a stall converter and a raised power train, it has gotten to 120* in my cab before.
I'm in the process of installing a heat barrier in my cab. I researched a good bit and decided on this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TPUT5FW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1#immersive-view_1470568627270

It seems to be a pretty good balance between effectiveness and cost. I am pairing it with a full molded rubber floor mat as well. I looked at the peel and stick products but was alarmed at their cost. So I'll try this approach. If you wanna come by the shop and check it out, you're welcome to.
 
I'm pretty sure the reflective barriers have to be exposed to open air in order to work.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Wanna lose 10# over a weekend? Ride in my Ranger for a weekend during summer! Between a lot of motor, a stall converter and a raised power train, it has gotten to 120* in my cab before.
I'm in the process of installing a heat barrier in my cab. I researched a good bit and decided on this:
2 PACK Wholesale Lot: ESP Low-E® SSR Reflective Foam Core Insulation Kit: 2 Rolls (Size 24"x25') Includes 25' Foil Tape per roll, Knife & Squeegee. Multipurpose Home Insulation For Your Building Project or Just Every Day Household Needs. - - Amazon.com

It seems to be a pretty good balance between effectiveness and cost. I am pairing it with a full molded rubber floor mat as well. I looked at the peel and stick products but was alarmed at their cost. So I'll try this approach. If you wanna come by the shop and check it out, you're welcome to.
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I'm using the foil bubble wrap in my truck. I have a rubber mat across the tunnel and both floorboards but on the kick panel and cab walls it's exposed. It's also above the head liner and behind the door panels. It made a noticeable difference with or without the ac on.

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shawn said:
I'm pretty sure the reflective barriers have to be exposed to open air in order to work.
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They're a radiant barrier and not a conductive barrier, and they become a conductor (not a conductive barrier) if there is no airgap between the reflective foil and whatever the hot object is. So really the airgap in the bubblewrap layer is the only thing that is a thermal barrier, because the foil becomes conductive if you're sticking it under a floor mat or carpet or whatever. The foil layer touching the carpet might work a tiny bit better, because the carpet is pretty full of air itself. So the thicker the bubblewrap, the better, because the foil isn't going to add much when installed this way.

The foil does add strength to the bubble wrap layer though, so that's something at least. If you're going to put expensive bubblewrap under your carpet, it might as well be strong expensive bubblewrap.
 
I struggle with the statement that the exhaust wrap traps water when it easily has the ability to dry itself off ? I have run it for years and never had any issues. its still bright orange from URE mud too.
 
Chuckman said:
I struggle with the statement that the exhaust wrap traps water when it easily has the ability to dry itself off ?
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Dry itself off with exhaust heat, yes. When the engine is running moisture is not a problem. It's after that, when you have condensation or rain that can trap moisture.
I've seen some minor rust problems on some vehicles with cheap steel headers, but I doubt it's very likely unless you've got a decently high output engine with increased exhaust temps from being wrapped. I've heard stories of headers getting thin/pinholed because of overtemp and moisture after being wrapped for a long time, but I haven't personally seen anything that extreme.
 
Don't waste your time with lizard skin! I used some on a project and it lowered the temp by about 5° ...it may do better the thicker you put it on...
 
I was the exhaust system engineer for a class 8 truck manufacturer for many years (moved on to a different position now). We tried different paint on/spray on stuff on the firewall and floorboard of the truck. They don't work. Wrapping the exhaust pipe with insulation (1/2" thick) does work, but it does decrease the life of the exhaust pipes, even SS ones or at least the typical grade (409) that is used in the trucking industry. Steel shields fastened to the engine/tranny side of the firewall and floor board with an air gap also work. Obviously insulation inside the cab under the floor/carpet also work.
 
drkelly said:
I was the exhaust system engineer for a class 8 truck manufacturer for many years (moved on to a different position now). We tried different paint on/spray on stuff on the firewall and floorboard of the truck. They don't work. Wrapping the exhaust pipe with insulation (1/2" thick) does work, but it does decrease the life of the exhaust pipes, even SS ones or at least the typical grade (409) that is used in the trucking industry. Steel shields fastened to the engine/tranny side of the firewall and floor board with an air gap also work. Obviously insulation inside the cab under the floor/carpet also work.
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Good info. That all agrees with everything I've found in the past, and the applications literature for the well engineered products that I haven't personally used. The product manufacturers aren't so keen on admitting that pipe wraps and insulation will decrease life and degrade pipes from temperature and corrosion, even though it's very common knowledge among end users (especially in turbo and race applications with significant EGT).
 
drkelly said:
I was the exhaust system engineer for a class 8 truck manufacturer for many years (moved on to a different position now). We tried different paint on/spray on stuff on the firewall and floorboard of the truck. They don't work. Wrapping the exhaust pipe with insulation (1/2" thick) does work, but it does decrease the life of the exhaust pipes, even SS ones or at least the typical grade (409) that is used in the trucking industry. Steel shields fastened to the engine/tranny side of the firewall and floor board with an air gap also work. Obviously insulation inside the cab under the floor/carpet also work.
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So if your saying 1/2" wrap is whats needed then header wrap won't really help correct? I took my carpet out cause it was nasty otherwise I would have just put the under carpet stuff down. My exhaust it really close to the floor board if I could get the self adhesive mats on the underside you think it would decrease heat in the cab or not do enough to notice?

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Fabrik8 said:
Good info. That all agrees with everything I've found in the past, and the applications literature for the well engineered products that I haven't personally used. The product manufacturers aren't so keen on admitting that pipe wraps and insulation will decrease life and degrade pipes from temperature and corrosion, even though it's very common knowledge among end users (especially in turbo and race applications with significant EGT).
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Weren't you the one flipping me shit for not wanting to use wrap on high end headers because it decreases life, increases corrosion, etc. regardless of material. At the time, you seemed to think stainless steel would remedy that???

New Product Opportunity - Exhaust and Line Thermal Wrap
 
UTfball68 said:
Weren't you the one flipping me shit for not wanting to use wrap on high end headers because it decreases life, increases corrosion, etc. regardless of material. At the time, you seemed to think stainless steel would remedy that???

New Product Opportunity - Exhaust and Line Thermal Wrap
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Stainless helps a lot, that's why I said that. Depends on the EGT and how much it's actually used, and header failures are a lot more common with high EGT.
 
Loganwayne said:
So if your saying 1/2" wrap is whats needed then header wrap won't really help correct? I took my carpet out cause it was nasty otherwise I would have just put the under carpet stuff down. My exhaust it really close to the floor board if I could get the self adhesive mats on the underside you think it would decrease heat in the cab or not do enough to notice?

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Click to expand...

That stuff works too. Obviously the thicker the insulation the better. We use some adhesive backed insulation with reflective metal backing on the underside of the cab floor. I still have some sample pieces I have been hanging on to in case I need them for a personal project some day, LOL.

adhesive backed heat shield 1.jpg


adhesive backed heat shield 2.jpg
 
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