Exhaust wrap

WARRIORWELDING

WARRIORWELDING

Owner opperator Of WarriorWelding LLC.
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Location
Chillin, Hwy 64 Mocksville NC
Pros and cons.

Current yj project has some. None on headerso_O but everything else.
Also really new and already really brittle and falling apart.
Muffler and Cat have been stupid hot. As in blued up and now rusting. I also believe the 302 is running to rich. Addressing that in a snowball of events.....

To wrap or not to wrap is the question.
 
Not a fan of wraps at all for the simple fact of moisture/element retention, which will promote corrosion...and yes, even stainless will corrode. I've seen some stainless systems in states that use magnesium sulfate (I think) on the roads and the system looks god awful. Headers I get coated at Jet Hot. The rest of the system, I'd go heat shield if necessary, otherwise I'd sooner run it bare.
 
Is it a full body yj?
 
Mac5005 said:
It's better than burning your feet or wires, etc
Click to expand...

Pardon my ignorance, not a Jeep guy at all, but what kinda crappy exhaust routing and wiring are you guys having to deal with if you're worried about burning your feet and wires???

I may be wrong, but I doubt a 6 cylinder (or mild 302) is getting this hot...

 
I have to wrap mine in the buggy or chance burning up the floor and heating the seats up. There is not much room for clearance for a heat shield.
 
I've had mine wrapped for a couple years now with no rot or problems. I have seen plenty rot out though over longer periods of time, a lot depends on the quality/material of the pipe. Factory piping will last a lot longer than the cheap parts store piping.

UTfball68 said:
Pardon my ignorance, not a Jeep guy at all, but what kinda crappy exhaust routing and wiring are you guys having to deal with if you're worried about burning your feet and wires???

I may be wrong, but I doubt a 6 cylinder (or mild 302) is getting this hot...

Click to expand...


Space does become a major issue especially with 3 and 4 link setups. On my ranger with a 3 link front I have less than an inch air gap between my exhaust, and the floor, upper link mount and trans pan (700r4). I have zero clearance heat shielding on the trans pan and floor and wrapped the exhaust pipe because it would heat up the trans fluid and floor real bad. Sitting at 4000rpms, in 100* ambient temp, under load, not going anywhere (no airflow to move hot air out) will get shit real hot real quick.
 
Fair enough...In my head I was only thinking stock/mild set ups and forget the Jeeps have significantly less space than a full size.
 
UTfball68 said:
Pardon my ignorance, not a Jeep guy at all, but what kinda crappy exhaust routing and wiring are you guys having to deal with if you're worried about burning your feet and wires???

I may be wrong, but I doubt a 6 cylinder (or mild 302) is getting this hot...

Click to expand...

I tucked my muffler up high at most 1/2" clearance to the floor. Rear passenger floor gets hot enough to start melting plastic grocery bags..... It's on my list of things to redo

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
UTfball68 said:
Pardon my ignorance, not a Jeep guy at all, but what kinda crappy exhaust routing and wiring are you guys having to deal with if you're worried about burning your feet and wires???

I may be wrong, but I doubt a 6 cylinder (or mild 302) is getting this hot...

Click to expand...


Mainly from 10-15 min throttle assaults with little to no ground speed on hard obstacles.

The heat from the exhaust soaks everything. Making sitting in a semi enclosed cab uncomfortable.

Exhaust wrap made a definitive difference inside the cab.

Exhaust routing through a full bodied jeep with a dual triangulated rear 4 link with a muffler and rear tailpipe was challenging, as there is no extra real estate.

The heat wrap keeps from heat soaking the links, transfer case, heims, bushings, floor, frame, and skid plate as bad.
 
ceramic coated headers? the thing with making headers less efficient at heat transference means more heat goes down the line. So if your exhaust piping and cat/muffler are not equally protected...

I cant lend you expert auto knowledge... but heat is heat, and I can lend you a usaf jet mechanics knowledge. find yourself a "thermal barrier" coating. Lots of industrial places should sell this. You can expect to find ratings from 0 to 1500 F or find higher end -100 to 3500 F. This is the type of stuff used to prevent heat transference from very very very very hot afterburners, and the same non-mil grade stuff being used on equipment that handles molten steel, etc. You should expect 90% reduction in heat transference

I would imagine if you coated your entire exhaust system you would be sitting pretty and cool
 
ckruzer said:
ceramic coated headers? the thing with making headers less efficient at heat transference means more heat goes down the line. So if your exhaust piping and cat/muffler are not equally protected...

I cant lend you expert auto knowledge... but heat is heat, and I can lend you a usaf jet mechanics knowledge. find yourself a "thermal barrier" coating. Lots of industrial places should sell this. You can expect to find ratings from 0 to 1500 F or find higher end -100 to 3500 F. This is the type of stuff used to prevent heat transference from very very very very hot afterburners, and the same non-mil grade stuff being used on equipment that handles molten steel, etc. You should expect 90% reduction in heat transference

I would imagine if you coated your entire exhaust system you would be sitting pretty and cool
Click to expand...
Get me some of that

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Cool info, I'm not entirely sold on the effectiveness of off shelf material. Guess an infra red therm. And some testing would be good. I had a stripped B2 and know full well about cab heat. I toasted some killer grilled cheese at Telico from the exhaust and trans heat.
I'm not about to overly cram my routing.
Ask Dave about my anal routing of components and heat shield on his buggy.

Just this product currently on the Jeep is entirely baked and falling apart. In a very very short time frame. Might have been some truly cheap crap. Would be par for everything thing else the previous owner employed.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Cool info, I'm not entirely sold on the effectiveness of off shelf material. Guess an infra red therm. And some testing would be good. I had a stripped B2 and know full well about cab heat. I toasted some killer grilled cheese at Telico from the exhaust and trans heat.
I'm not about to overly cram my routing.
Ask Dave about my anal routing of components and heat shield on his buggy.

Just this product currently on the Jeep is entirely baked and falling apart. In a very very short time frame. Might have been some truly cheap crap. Would be par for everything thing else the previous owner employed.
Click to expand...


I used speedway motors brand black wrap. If I purchased again, I'd use the natural color, as the black burns off, and gets all over you while wrapping.

I used stainless hose clamps to clamp in place.

Only places that have frayed or failed is where rocks have gotten lodged up and hit and tore the wrap directly.


I used dei brand titanium/Kevlar based wrap on our work suburban egr pipe, fuel line and wiring harness with great results to keep it from boiling the fuel in the rail after stopping engine while towing. The egr pipe was heat soaking said items while on long pulls. It seems to hold up very well.

On my dads truck, I was anal about making 16ga aluminum heat shields for everything. It works great, but that rig also has the real estate to fit them everywhere. All have a minimum 1/2" air gap, some places more.
 
ckruzer said:
You should expect 90% reduction in heat transference
Click to expand...

No, that's a bit high.

And ceramic coating is a thermal barrier coating.

There's multiple types of ceramic coatings, some are liquid applied with a spray gun and some are plasma applied. They both work well, but the plasma applied coatings really kick ass. The liquid coatings are pretty cheap though, and tons of places do it (like JetHot).

For your relatively low exhaust temps and naturally aspirated engine, any place like Jet Hot will be fine.
 
Last edited:
Fabrik8 said:
No, that's a bit high.

And ceramic coating is a thermal barrier coating.

There are multiple types of ceramic coatings, some are a liquid applied with a spray gun and some are plasma applied. They both work well, but the plasma applied coatings really kick ass. The liquid coatings are pretty cheap though, and tons of places do it (like JetHot).

For your relatively low exhaust temps and naturally aspirated engine, any place like Jet Hot will be fine.
Click to expand...

yes. but i wasnt advocating ceramic because go look at the price of ceramic coating your entire exhaust system and go look at the efficiency of ceramic. The whole point is, when you reduce the heat transference on your headers, the heat moves on down the line and when you cat and muffler are treated as well, now you got the issue related to the OP. "How to protect cat and muffler from heat",. Google thermal barrier and go look look for some more industrial grade stuff that hasnt been blindly adopted by the automotive community as the "only" option.
 
ckruzer said:
yes. but i wasnt advocating ceramic because go look at the price of ceramic coating your entire exhaust system and go look at the efficiency of ceramic. The whole point is, when you reduce the heat transference on your headers, the heat moves on down the line and when you cat and muffler are treated as well, now you got the issue related to the OP. "How to protect cat and muffler from heat",. Google thermal barrier and go look look for some more industrial grade stuff that hasnt been blindly adopted by the automotive community as the "only" option.
Click to expand...


If the muffler is bluing on a street car, there is a problem with the engine that's generating too much heat. This isn't a race engine, it's not going to blue a muffler just because it's had the exhaust wrapped.
 
Back
Top