F350 Dually removal

Jeepnmud74

Jeepnmud74

New Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Location
Mount Holly, NC
I have gotten all the required pads and calipers removed. My problem now is that the rotor will not come off. The repair manual said all I have to do is remove the spacer (front on a dually has a spacer), and remove the rotor. Says it is that simple. Well I have beat this thing with a 2 Lb dead blow hammer and it will not budge. Any good advice would be be a great help. I do not want to just put the new pads back on the rotors need to be turned. They are not in real bad shape but the drivers side could use a turning.
 
Well, the 2 pound sledge might have killed 'em. :lol:


Notes

Removal




1. Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
2. NOTE: Perform this step for F-250 and F-350 4x4 SRW vehicles. Remove the rotor.




3. NOTE: Perform this step for DRW vehicles. NOTE: If excessive force must be used during brake rotor removal, the brake rotors should be checked for lateral runout prior to installation. Remove the eight hub extender nuts, the hub plate and the rotor.

1. Remove the eight hub plate nuts.
2. Remove the hub plate.
3. Remove the rotor.

Installation




1. Position the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub. Make sure the wheel hub and the front disc brake rotor braking and mounting surfaces are clean.

o Use Metal Brake Parts Cleaner F3AZ-19579-SA or equivalent to clean the front disc brake rotor.




2. NOTE: Perform this step for DRW vehicles only. Install the front wheel hub extender and nuts.
3. Install the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.


Try soaking the hub area in pb blaster if you remove the hub extender and related parts.
 
I have done everything according to the directions above. The hammer was the last resort. They still will not budge. I sprayed them with PB blaster last night I will see what happens today.

I can not even get the hub extender to come off. It is all stuck really good. Joys of buying a used truck I guess.
 
Oh and I did not actually hit the surface area of the rotor with the deadblow hammer. I was beating on the area where the spacer meets the center of the rotor and it still did not release.
 
Ratman said:
Well, the 2 pound sledge might have killed 'em. :lol:


Notes

Removal




1. Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
2. NOTE: Perform this step for F-250 and F-350 4x4 SRW vehicles. Remove the rotor.




3. NOTE: Perform this step for DRW vehicles. NOTE: If excessive force must be used during brake rotor removal, the brake rotors should be checked for lateral runout prior to installation. Remove the eight hub extender nuts, the hub plate and the rotor.

1. Remove the eight hub plate nuts.
2. Remove the hub plate.
3. Remove the rotor.

Installation




1. Position the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub. Make sure the wheel hub and the front disc brake rotor braking and mounting surfaces are clean.

o Use Metal Brake Parts Cleaner F3AZ-19579-SA or equivalent to clean the front disc brake rotor.




2. NOTE: Perform this step for DRW vehicles only. Install the front wheel hub extender and nuts.
3. Install the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.


Try soaking the hub area in pb blaster if you remove the hub extender and related parts.
Click to expand...

This came word for word from the same manual I have. That is exactly what I did and then I got the deadblow hammer and still nothing. I thought maybe there was some trick i was missing somewhere guess not.
 
This is a 99+ truck with unit hubs?

I can't remember how those go together off the top of my head... but the one thing that comes to mind is that if the rotor slides over the hub, a lot of times, the interior of the rotor will swell from rust, causing it to lock around the flange of the hub. In those cases, I was usually replacing the rotor anyway, so I'd just make two cuts in it, one on each side, and whack it a couple of times to break the rotor in half.

Rotors are cheap, hubs aren't.

Hope that helps.
 
might be worth a shot, many rotors have 2 (or more) threaded holes that bottom into the hub. When you tighten the 2 bolts evenly push on the hub and pull the rotor off...
 
No holes on these rotors I already checked for that also. I may just end up replacing the rotors. I am thinking it is rusted onto the hub. There may not be away to get them off without destroying the rotors in order to save the hub. The hub is several hundred dollars and the rotor is around 100 dollars.

Oh yeah and by the way it is a 1999 super duty, not sure if I ever mentioned that and I am to lazy to scroll back up and see .....
 
My experiance with Ford rotors and Unit hubs, A LOT OF FORCE !!

Put brakes on an Expedition, was only supposed to turn the rotors, couldn't ge the rotors off. Myself and a coworker took turns beating on the rotor, it FINALLY came off in 3 peices, some what tough to machine at this point. The other side I took off the whole unit bearing and rotor assy, then took to a 20 ton press. push with the press till the frame was distorted, not moving, took torch, and heated the rotor at the hub flange red hot all the way around....... "BANG!!" yeah, it let loose, but warped the hell outta the rotor.

you'll be replacing the rotors
 
Also, put away the dead blow hammer and grab a mini sledge. it will transfer the force better. MY .02
 
greg slade said:
Also, put away the dead blow hammer and grab a mini sledge. it will transfer the force better. MY .02
Click to expand...

exactly what I did and it worked out fine. Sprayed the hell out of them with PB BLaster let it soak a few minutes then went to work. Got both rotors off undamaged. After the hub extenders were off the rotors literally fell off on the ground. The rotors are free floating once you get the rest of the junk out of the way. Thanks for all the advice.
 
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