Fab ?'s (Toyota)

Chris_Keziah

Chris_Keziah

Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab
Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Location
Winston-Salem
I'm working on extending the rear frame section on my 4Runner and wanting to get some opinions on what to do. I have some 2x3x3/16 square tubing that fits almost perfectly in the open portion of the frame in the back. It's taking some minor grinding on the inner upper and lower edges to slide in. My main question is how far in should I slide the tube? Here's a pic just for reference. It's the little lips on the left that are the interference.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1361938222.670363.jpg


All the way back till it hits whatever that is in there is 8.5 inches from the end of the frame. The lip is about 5.5 inches till the piece in there. If anybody is wants to know why I'm doing this its because I'm extending my wheel base a little(12.5 inchs) from my ford 57 springs. Thanks for any help.


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I believe it will be strong enough. Use the factory bumper mounting holes to weld rosettes. Also, it wouldnt hurt to weld a piece of 2x3 across the framerails as another crossmember when you lengthen the frame.
 
That's the plan with the rear is to run a piece of tube across to tie each side together. That and it would be good base for a bumper and cage tie in. I had planed to push that piece of tube in a weld all the way around where the frame and tube meet.


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I'm with the above posters, I think you'll be fine with that plan.
Just helped a friend stretch his rig 18". Only 3" of the square tubing was in each side of the cut frame rail, that was then capped with two clam-shell pieces so it looks like an actual frame, then the whole thing had 'diamonds' welded across the beads to bridge them.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words & I'm not always the most clear on explaining things...
stretch.JPG
 
If your welds are good, even a butt-weld and a little plating should be as strong as the factory frame. Recessing it a little, plug welding, perimeter welding, and plating should be more than enough insurance for anybody. I'd look carefully at where the stress is going to be moved down the frame, though. Adding that extra length to the rear is going to increase the bending leverage on the frame at whatever weak spot it can find. I'd consider a close examination of the frame and boxing or reinforcing anywhere you think it might bend in the future.
 
Ok thanks guys ill stick to what I had planned, just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something un-safe.

And catfish I never really thought about that until now. I had planed on plating the front so I guess ill do the rear as well.


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Any reason to fish plate the corners or would beveling the edges and laying a good weld down be plenty?


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Lurch830 said:
I'm with the above posters, I think you'll be fine with that plan.
Just helped a friend stretch his rig 18". Only 3" of the square tubing was in each side of the cut frame rail, that was then capped with two clam-shell pieces so it looks like an actual frame, then the whole thing had 'diamonds' welded across the beads to bridge them.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words & I'm not always the most clear on explaining things...
Click to expand...

There's also plug welds behind that diamond you can't see...
 
off_road2 said:
There's also plug welds behind that diamond you can't see...
Click to expand...
Forgot that part, would you believe the excuse "my memory isn't what it used to be"?
 
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