Fabricating seat sliders

frankenyoter

No Rain, No Rainbow
Joined
Mar 17, 2009
Location
DARK CITY
I want to redo my seat mounting points from the original body/sheetmetal mounts to a frame/cage mounts for all the good reasons.

I want to make the drivers seat position adjustable so my shorter than me wife can take a turn at the wheel.

Starting from scratch and keeping strength and safety at the top of the list, does anyone have any methods they are willing to share?

I started with an exocage that turned into a firewall buggy thing that still has a frame.
 
Those Chassis Unlimited sliders are :huggy:.

The home brew tube idea fits my budget better.

I've got a seat slider from a 2008 4Runner that I thought about using. Any reason modifying a stock seat slider would be aweful (assuming proper welding and installation).
 
Some of the universal sliders from Sparco, etc can be found for cheap sometimes. They would likely need as much modification as anything else, depending on the seats you have.
 
That's also a lot of adjustment; more than likely necessary.

But, that's just from looking at pictures and no experience with them.

They sure look nice though
 
That's also a lot of adjustment; more than likely necessary.

But, that's just from looking at pictures and no experience with them.

They sure look nice though
I have seen some full extension with 2 pins holding them and they claim there was no play/movement in the sliders. They are about the only thing avail if u want alot of travel.

Are your seats flat mounted or tab?
 
Speedway motors universal seat sliders

Looks very similar to an old Commando slider i had for a while.

Makes me think I should run what I've got. Or play with tubes.

If the suspension seat was mounted to angle, how far could you safely cantelever the tube mounted sliders? In the example posted by @paradisePWoffrd the forward mount was congruent with the forward mount with the seat. If the seat was mounted to angle and the slider tabs were say 6-8" back from the forward mount, it would be significantly more compact.
 
I think that would be okay, else I would imagine they would limit the range of motion. I would run two of those quick release pins on each side spread as far apart as possible wherever the adjustment ends up, instead of just one like the pictures though; the pin placement is largely responsible for where force is applied on a part like that. Unless I'm missing something from the pictures and the pieces actually interlock differently than I think...


Oh, yep. I just found a better picture. Only one pin necessary because the rails interlock with an channel.

awww.pirate4x4.com_forum_attachments_miscellaneous_672017d1337aeedc8f958cd45396c9e9b1f27ff80b5.jpg
 
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