Fender trimming!?

[Bigben75ford]

SO I have a 94 toyota pickup that I need to cutt the rear fenders out about 2 inches but I dont want to do a hack job and just have a straight edge.I also would like to be able to still use the plastic in the fender wells after I cutt it out some.Has anyone tried to cutt slits in the metal and bend the edge over?Just wondered if anyone had some advice or pics thanks for all input!

 

[moldman05]

I cut my suburban fenders with a thin cutoff blade in a 4 1/2 side grinder. The cut was made 3/4 too "small" so I could notch at the curves and bend over the edge 3/4". A few places the sawzall was used. I bent the inner fender as well and welded everything together. It looks decent and is strong and stable. The worst part was when I stuck the spinning cut off blade in the end of my finger when trying to adjust the blade guard.

 

[1stgenxxx]

I cut my suburban fenders with a thin cutoff blade in a 4 1/2 side grinder. The cut was made 3/4 too "small" so I could notch at the curves and bend over the edge 3/4". A few places the sawzall was used. I bent the inner fender as well and welded everything together. It looks decent and is strong and stable. The worst part was when I stuck the spinning cut off blade in the end of my finger when trying to adjust the blade guard.

I've done that also...atleast it cauderizes it

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

Hammer and dolly, gently don't get in a hurry. Take a block of steel 3/4 thick roughly 3x3 and round a radius on one end for the corners. Place inside the fender at the level you want to create the lip 1/2 ect. Use a flat headed hammer, a carpenters hammer or Small ball pien works best. Grind the head perfectly flat for better control and no dents. Take very small increments and work the metal accross the entire radius. Corners will require the rounded edge of the block. Use the edge of the block to establish the body line. The corners will require the slowest work. The dolly needs to be fairly substaintial in weight so it doesn't bounce around while hammer forming the sheet metal, or really "TAP" forming. Slowly progress to a turned in lip. You have to litterally strectch the metal in the corners so they take more time. By going in slow increments you'll be able to control the progress on the lip. Think massaging to metal to where you want it. Also do not strike the material anywhere that its not supported by the dolly, this only makes uncontrolled dents. Hot rodders and racers have done this for years, most wheelers simply don't care for the time invested for the supper clean look. Practice on what you remove to get a feel for it. A cheap body hammer and dolly block can also be bought about anywhere that sells auto tools.