Flex a seal...anyone use it

NickMaul said:
Touché.

More than one way to skin that cat but I wouldn’t want to be behind a rig on a tight trail with sheet metal screws holding the tire to its bead. Some patience and saving some money for another month or two and this could be much more simple.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Most people think same but screws are spaced close together right behind the bead, it holds up really well. I wouldn't trust jumping a rig and landing on this setup lol, but I drove on a flat with many turns and bumps and good distance and put air back in it and went on.
Its not for everyone lol, after all its gotta be cheap junk rims and little time to spare
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
vs someone without beadlocks at all. W
Click to expand...
I've been that guy many times in past and it sucked for me, and really sucked for the crowd behind. So for now I found solution to get me by
 
drkelly said:
No way. I'm guessing John got all four rims used for around $100 or less. Screws are cheap. Re-centered H1 rims with stamped/pressed centers are not cheap, and the vast majority of rigs cannot run them without being re-centered.
Click to expand...
Yep, got 5 37s with these rims for 300..not bad
 
marty79 said:
Yessir, this I found out on my other jeep I had so that's why I'm not taking them out lol.
Its not that big a deal, to loose 5psi over a full week or so is nothing considering I have 60screws into each rim lol (yeah I'm doing pretty good as someone stated).
It was just a "thought" and wonder since I ran across that can stuff the other day.
If I didn't think I might use the rims for bigger tires later on I would put gorilla glue over each bolt & call it good but never know when looking for different tires later.
I appreciate everyone's advise though!
Click to expand...

Remove the valve stem and fill the tire with coolant/radiator stop leak, upto the bottom of the rim. It should help seal them up. It looks like youre running aluminum rims. If so I put alumaseal in some old alum beadlocks I ran, and i stopped them from leaking around the welds. That or 8oz of Stay Flo Starch are two sand rail tricks for sealing up beadlocks.

1 bottle of Liquid Alumaseal Radiator Stop Leak, mixed with 15 ounces of regular Anti-Freeze (non- Dex),.. I use Peak brand.

You have to stir the Alumaseal with a screwdriver to get the stuff in the bottom of the bottle blended with the liquid. Then pour it into an old gear oil bottle along with the Anti-freeze, and use the gear oil spout tip with 6" of vinyl tubing to connect to your valve stem (core removed), then squeeze the bottle 'till empty. You HAVE to shake the bottle alot to keep the stop leak in suspension. Drive the car a mile or so and you're done.
Click to expand...
 
If he drilled 60 holes in an ALUMINUM rim....we wont have to worry about losing a bead.
 
drkelly said:
No way. I'm guessing John got all four rims used for around $100 or less. Screws are cheap. Re-centered H1 rims with stamped/pressed centers are not cheap, and the vast majority of rigs cannot run them without being re-centered.
Click to expand...
Not to mention the weight,I have recentered H1's w pvc run flats and rock rings w a 42 inch Irok and they are a hand full.
 
Back
Top