Floor Board Insulation

JocoXJ

JocoXJ

New Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2010
Location
Mooresville , NC
I removed my carpet beginning of the year when I sunk my Jeep in a hole and flooded my floorboard. Now I am try to stay out of big holes but it always seem to be inevitable, I fall right into some big rutted water hole and get water in my floor, so I'm not looking to put my carpet back in. But now that it's summer it is very hot inside with all the heat. I have it sprayed flat black and plan on rhino lining the inside. Does anyone know of anyway to keep the heat down besides what little if any rhino liner would do?
 
Perhaps some of that dynomat material? However, I bet water will still get stuck underneath of it. You could use it on the firewall area and leave the floorboards open. Not much heat comes from the floorboards, but rather the firewall and tranny tunnel.
 
i got the same thing in my xj. trans area gets real hot... but one thing that helped was to paint the floor a lighter color. mine are john deere green but any lighter color would help
 
What I have seen others do is to clean the floor very well then apply paint, hurculiner, etc to the fresh surface. After that lay dynomat down followed by linex, rhino or other similar product. The paint should keep any water that find's it's way under the liner from causing rust problems later. It's a lot of work but if you plan on keeping your Jeep for a while it would be worth it.
 
That's a good idea so first paint the floor, lay dynomat then herculine? Any suggestions to when I get water in the floor on removing it? Currently I have a small drain hole I recon I should just keep some extra towels handy. LOL
 
JocoXJ said:
That's a good idea so first paint the floor, lay dynomat then herculine? Any suggestions to when I get water in the floor on removing it? Currently I have a small drain hole I recon I should just keep some extra towels handy. LOL
Click to expand...
My sugestion is to drill a hole and install a piece of hose or pipe in the hole. Try to find a flange adapter to attach to the top of the pipe. This allows you to seal it to the floor and also keep it out of the way. You might find what you need in a appliance repair shop, like a refrigerator drain line or similar.

Here is some more info on heat proofing:

Taken from JP Magazine


Before applying the Dynamat, we strongly suggest putting down a layer of Herculiner, POR-15, or other rust-inhibiting protectant. After letting it dry, put the Dynamat down and then Herculiner - or something similar - on top of it.

The Dynamat is a tar/rubber-like compound with a layer of adhesive on it that sticks like crazy. While we aren't concerned about where it sticks, the small contours that it isn't adhered to might allow water to pool. Our top layer of Herculiner should keep water out from any air pockets, but if/when it gets in, the base layer of Herculiner will keep the water from eating away the metal of the cab.
 
i wouldnt apply any textured product below the dynamat, it will not adhere properly. Stick to some good paint and you will be good. Make sure to roll any air pockets out with a roller or a big socket. Also, if you want something that looks better, hushmat and second skin offer there sound deadening products in black.
 
Back
Top