For a racing application, which axle to replace (f or R)?

REDLYNER

REDLYNER

Mall Crawling Race Rig
Joined
Oct 31, 2008
Location
Mountain Island
Two questions-

For a racing application (ECORS, Dirt Riot, TREC), if I could only replace one of my axles, which one would be the first I should look at? I currently run 37" tires on TJ Rubicon 44 axles. The axles are trussed, both have super 44 kits (cromo shafts), Alloy 4.88 gears, and ARBs. The rear has disk brakes and the front has a Vanco big brake kit.

If I could only replace one before a ~100 mile race in Johnson Valley, California, which would be the better choice? Front or rear?


Also, my current Pitbull radial Rocker tires weigh roughly 90lbs each and the new 37" MTR/K weighs roughly 75lbs each. Would it be worth selling my Pitbulls (taking a hit) and buying new MTR/Ks purely for the weight savings for my smaller axles? Lets say the swap of 5 tires for 5 tires would cost me roughly $650 cash.




Just curious on both questions, looking for feedback.:beer:
 
depends on budget.

Personally, I'd swap the front. It'll be more $. If your budget for axles is limited, maybe choose the one that is closer to the budget. If your rear breaks, you are SOL unless you have spares. If you break a front, pull that side and continue on in 3 wheel drive.

Or, just save the $ till you have enough to swap both front and rear at the same time.
 
Tacoma747 said:
Front. Rear is much easier to fix if it breaks during the race, assuming you have spare shafts, and you think the r+p will hold up to your driving style.

I'd stick with the pitbulls just for strength, I saw tons of cut goodyears at KOH this year.
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Hmmm.... I didn't see any Pitbull flats out there, but like you saw several Goodyear flats. However, I would bet Goodyear rigs out numbered Pitbull 15 to 1.

I broke my rear ring and pinion at the Auburn race last year and have been told several times the rear takes the most abuse. But with over sized tires (for my axles), I thought they may change the equation and make the front more vulnerable. But I really don't know, good feedback though.
 
Replace the rear. Drive smart and you can make the front live. It's going to be hard to make the top 10 driving easy enough to make the rear 44 live.

Give me a call for some rear axle options.
 
Rear from what I've seen over the years the rear definitely takes the most abuse think about it like this when your climbing a ledge most of the vehicle weight is transferred to the rear that and shock loading from axle hop equals bad news
 
Absolutely the rear. Aside from internal parts, the rear housing takes majority of the suspension hits. Upgrade to a full float 60 with a stout housing/truss.
 
I would totally do the tires, but not for weight as much as the kevlar sides and better traction.

As for axles, I would wait until you can do them both and go to 8 lug. There's not much for options between what you have now and 60 front - 14 bolt rear.
 
tw89yj said:
Absolutely the rear. Aside from internal parts, the rear housing takes majority of the suspension hits. Upgrade to a full float 60 with a stout housing/truss.
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FTS.

What he needs is a 9" with a FF kit.

I mean, so long as we're spending other people's money... :D
 
Hahaha..


I think what I would like is some form of rear 609 hybrid. Pretty much for cost savings (assuming my research is at least some what correct). Use a custom 9" diff with dana 60 outers. Since I'm running 37"s, I would think standard bone stock 60 axle shafts, outers, etc would work just fine from a strength standpoint.

Now I just a need a shop to build me one :D
 
That's a good option too, but the pinion is really low on a 9", going to suck with close-to-stock wheelbase.
 
tw89yj said:
That's a good option too, but the pinion is really low on a 9", going to suck with close-to-stock wheelbase.
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It's not crazy stretched, but I have stretched it out to 100" right now.
 
REDLYNER said:
Hahaha..


I think what I would like is some form of rear 609 hybrid. Pretty much for cost savings (assuming my research is at least some what correct). Use a custom 9" diff with dana 60 outers. Since I'm running 37"s, I would think standard bone stock 60 axle shafts, outers, etc would work just fine from a strength standpoint.

Now I just a need a shop to build me one :D
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We build similar stuff all the time without issue. What are you gonna run for a bolt pattern? That will also affect some cost. Not gonna get a 30 spline (stock 60) anything for a 9".......you might want to look at D70 outers/shafts so you can use the stock 35 spline stuff. Not gonna be able to build a 5 on 4.5 rear FF axle either. So make sure you factor in purchasing wheels if you are not currently running 5 on 5.5 or bigger.

If cost is a big factor, you might want to look at building a D60 rear. By the time you buy good stuff for the chunk, including a good chunk, you will probably be more cost effective on a 60 build. If you can swing all the good stuff for the chunk, the 9" should be fine.
 
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