? for ford dana 60 guys

are you trying to use the radius arms?

seems like a good time to upgrade to a 4 link and rid yourself of the headaches associated with adapting the radius stuff..... aside from the additional cost, it seems like that would be a pretty simple and straight forward conversion/swap....
 
first thing i would do is cut and grind off all the stuff not needed on the 60 and smooth out the tube area where you cut on. then get your c<> wedges ready to fit the bigger 60 tube. bolt it all in like the 44 and set the pinion angle. then tack the c <> so it does not move and pull it all apart, fully weld the c <> wedges and then put it all back together.
 
Do it just like Broncomania described. You can buy the wedges from James Duff: http://www.jamesduff.com/eb/suspension_components.html

Here are some pics of the wedges:
ai34.photobucket.com_albums_d117_drkelly99_Cab_20truck_Buildup_IMGP0522.jpg


ai34.photobucket.com_albums_d117_drkelly99_Cab_20truck_Front_20end_IMGP0523.jpg


ai34.photobucket.com_albums_d117_drkelly99_Cab_20truck_Front_20end_IMGP0536.jpg


My track bar and drag link:
ai34.photobucket.com_albums_d117_drkelly99_Cab_20truck_Buildup_IMGP0733.jpg


I also did a wristed radius arm:
ai34.photobucket.com_albums_d117_drkelly99_Cab_20truck_Buildup_IMGP0744.jpg


ai34.photobucket.com_albums_d117_drkelly99_Cab_20truck_Front_20end_IMGP0991.jpg


Let me know if you want any more pics or have questions.
 
:shaking:i have goggled and found a little but the pics suck mut stuff i found was on jeeps. As for the link setup i would not know where to begin, i can do alot of things,but this is a first time with fabin up suspension! mostly afraid id screw something up
 
if you can weld and turn wrenches then its not a problem. you just need 13/16 socket for the radius arm cap, 9/16 for the coil retainer strap, 5/8 for the lower spring cup, 7/16 line wrench, 7/8 & 13/16 for the trac bar . 1&1/8 for the back of the radius arm. 5/16 and 1/2 " for the drive shaft, other than that its a piece of cake.
 
i am wanting to insatll a 79hp60 on a 78 f150 w/coils and was wanting some advice on how to go about it?pics wouldnt hurt either!thanks:bounce:
Mania, i say you done this a time or too, but i was talking about 4 link setup. But thanks for the input
4 link ? oh sorry. i didnt know.
 
thanks drkelly,for the pics,do those wedges come ready for the 3in tube? and what did you do to mount the track bar to the axle?

The guy at James Duff told me I would need to grind the wedges to fit a D60, but I didn't have to do anything to them. They fit the tube perfectly.

I have a heim joint on the axle end of the track bar, and built a bracket that I welded to the axle tube. It actually sits half way on top of the old spring perch on that side.
This is the best picture I have right now of the trac bar bracket on the axle. My truck is currently at my buddies house getting ready to go to the exhaust shop.
ai34.photobucket.com_albums_d117_drkelly99_Cab_20truck_Front_20end_IMGP0992.jpg
 
mania,i was talking about screwing the 4 link stuff up, the swap i am not afriad of cause of all you wise folks on this forum!!!!!
Kelly thanks for pic,i have an idea (i think) of what needs to be done. Are those stock track bar and drag link? Or did you make them as well?And if you did make them,how do you measure something like that? THANK YALL :lol:
 
Are those stock track bar and drag link? Or did you make them as well?And if you did make them,how do you measure something like that? THANK YALL :lol:

No, not stock track bar and drag link. I bought all the stuff to make my track bar, drag link, and tie rod from WFO Concepts http://wfoconcepts.com/ Trevor is the dude to talk to.

I measured the approximate length I figured I needed, and added a few extra inches to be safe when ordering the tube. It was just three pieces of tube, some threaded inserts to weld in the ends, a few heims, a drag link end, and the bushing assy for the frame end of the track bar. If I remember correctly, the tubing is 1.25" OD, 0.219" wall DOM. I bent the track bar in a HF pipe bender.
 
i see he has 35 spline outers, do you have to change anything to make them work?i have read something about putting a chevy knuckle on for 35 spline outers?Thank yall for yalls help,i have completly tore apart the front and waiting for the brackets to get here. I was think if i needed to some how find out centerlines (axle & frame),did yall do this also? This is the frist time ever fabing something up so bare with me.:shaking:
 
i see he has 35 spline outers, do you have to change anything to make them work?
You just need a set of 35 spline lock outs or drive flanges.

i have read something about putting a chevy knuckle on for 35 spline outers?
Haven't heard that one. The Chevy 35 spline stubs are too long for the Ford (1/2"-3/4"). I think I remember reading that you can cut them off to the correct length. You would also need to cut a new groove for the snap ring. I am not sure about that. I ended up going with Superior 35 spline stubs.

I was think if i needed to some how find out centerlines (axle & frame),did yall do this also? This is the frist time ever fabing something up so bare with me.:shaking:
I used a large fishing weight on a string to position the axle under the frame correctly.
 
dr thank you for your help,so i have the axle striped down to nothing(figured it would be easier to move around),if i pull a measurment from the axle c's and get a ceterline on the axle then do your fishin string thing on the frame that should work ,right?or did i waste my time and need to measure from the wms?
 
well, WMS would be the true centerline in reference to rolling, but C to C would certainly be close enough.
 
well finally got my 35 spline outers from parts mike(had to order more) :lol: going to see if i can aleast get the 44 out of the way this weekend if the heat dont run me out of my shop!:bounce2:
 
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