ford 78-79 dana 60 truss - who makes the best fitted???

6BangBronk

6BangBronk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2005
Location
Durham
I got a tad carried away on a Dana 60 trying to make it fit an application that it was destined not to fit. But hard headed me, I cut the spring pad out on the short / driver's side which is part of the tube housing to relocate it a tad outward. Now that I realize it definately ain't going to fit after all of that and the fact that I goofed up a perfectly good housing, I'm going to weld it up the best I can but feel the need for a good fitting truss to weld on it as well. Of course I could make something but... I DO want it to look good. :) And be a professional fix to Trusssst it.:flipoff2:
I've searched Pirate and Google and come up with only 2 companies to choose from. Artec and Blue Torch Fab. The BTF truss seems to be what I would need but they don't show a picture of it without all the optional weld-ons? So for the money, I'm not positive. I haven't had time to fully check out my axle since pulling it off but plan on it this this weekend. Regardless, I think this axle is probably going to be destined for C wedge / radius arm mounting. Of course 4 link would be the shizz but I have radius arm chassis ready and waiting.

Anybody have a suggestion? Any vendors on here make one??? Or anybody on here up to fabbing me a truss?????

Thanks!
 
I have a wfo 86-91(?) ford 60 truss on my tj and was very pleased with the fit and customer service. I had some things I wanted different and they had no problem working it out for me with a quick turn-around. I think @Croatan_Kid has used them as well with good success.
 
Just take a piece of 2x.120 about five ft long, put a little bend in it, and add a couple pieces of 1in to make some intermediates to brace back to the main tube. Should cost about 20 bucks in material and be ten times stiffer than any of the commercially available "trusses" out there.
 
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You looking at something like this? Then running C wedge radius arm? Like the factory type radius arms where the mount bolts to the front of the arm and wraps all the way around it with the bushing trapped inside? So where is that going to fit on the end with that much truss? You'd have to modify the crap out of that if I'm understanding where you wanna be. I guess the wedges are going to mount at the extreme edges of the tube out past the original flat for the spring perch? If so you'll have to angle the mounting wedges, use modified towed in radius arms, or out board the mounts to make up width. Then pending how that works out you'll might have tire rubbing lock to lock on the arms unless your running a very wicked offset. OR maybe I'm stupid off base and can't picture where your headed? Been their before!:D I'm curious how your planning this out. I got a Danna 44 running C's and a 60 laying around but I've never considered running it with my radius arms.
 
I haven't used their truss, but I order stuff from them all the time. Beau and Trevor know me when I call now. I just made two orders this week actually. Both while sitting in the parking lot after I got to work. Stainless brake hoses and fittings were in both orders and they always help me out and get me the right stuff. It's nice to be able to call and tell someone what I'm working on and they know exactly what I'm talking about.

I'm sure there are some local guys that could treat me just as good. Sometimes I feel bad for not ordering locally, but I'm just glad to get what I need. I'll be visiting somebody to help me finish the last of my Silverado build. Most decent shops are 2 to 6 hours from me though.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
View attachment 149941 You looking at something like this? Then running C wedge radius arm? Like the factory type radius arms where the mount bolts to the front of the arm and wraps all the way around it with the bushing trapped inside? So where is that going to fit on the end with that much truss? You'd have to modify the crap out of that if I'm understanding where you wanna be. I guess the wedges are going to mount at the extreme edges of the tube out past the original flat for the spring perch? If so you'll have to angle the mounting wedges, use modified towed in radius arms, or out board the mounts to make up width. Then pending how that works out you'll might have tire rubbing lock to lock on the arms unless your running a very wicked offset. OR maybe I'm stupid off base and can't picture where your headed? Been their before!:D I'm curious how your planning this out. I got a Danna 44 running C's and a 60 laying around but I've never considered running it with my radius arms.
Click to expand...

I realized that after I posted. You are exactly right. I guess the best answer would be 4 link this axle. I'll look for the missing piece to just weld it back in, but truth known, it made the last scrap run.

Yea, I know I could make one cheaper and stouter but in my case, I prefer to brace it to make it work and basically "hide' the boo-boo if all possible. My projects are more restorations than heavy wheelers. Although the 4 link would be a game changer... Too bad i did this to a 4.09 axle and not a 5.13...

I know now you can't slap a high pinion under a 2wd '66 F-350 unless you spring lift it 3-4". Plans were to put a holmes 440 winch and boom on it and any more lift would not be ideal in the back. I've got a low pinion 60 going back in and plan on running it with the cast in stock perch (the one I cut off the HP) and relocate passenger side out to let it ride 1" towards the driver's side. All this to just pass the oil pan. This situation descibes why the 'high boy" era ever happenned...

Thanks for the realistic insight Worrierwelding!
 
dude I wanna see pics of this truck!!! I'd love to retro build something of this era or earlier!
 
Comming soon... Thanks! I can say, between the 75+ pre '79 Ford trucks I've parted / owned / worked on ect., I've learned a tremendous lot. Amazing how so much was retained bolt-on between 61-79. And how much differation occurred as well...
 
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