Ford fuel injection/ YJ 302

WARRIORWELDING

WARRIORWELDING

Owner opperator Of WarriorWelding LLC.
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Location
Chillin, Hwy 64 Mocksville NC
Need some help. I have a new to me YJ with swapped 91 truck 302 and Ford efi. Manual trans. Complete with egr, smog, all sorts of vacume lines the whole nine.
Its a speed density sytem from what I gather. I believe I could learn most of it and I got a good gist, but I'd like to simplify it. And from what I gather future cam ugrades want make it happy. It's also currently not real happy and running a little rough and harder on fuel than it should be ( or I presume).
1. Strip it down clean out the clutter and run it.
2. Holly efi system to replace the Ford comp and wiring. Keep intakes and Ford hardware.
3. Holly efi carb(throttle body) and a carb style intake

Goals....
1.DD able wheeler, not primary ( will be building other facst)
2.Live in non emissions county. Still don't want grief from inspector.Jeep is 91.
3.KISS UNDER the hood and elsewhere. I wanna be able to trouble shoot it.
4. For the Propane crowd, not an option. Packaging for desired purpose is a no go.

Thoughts...............????
 
MAF conversion will definitely make future upgrades easier (possible).
Is the engine basically stock? If so, getting it running properly shouldn't be an issue.
Start with verifying timing, fuel pressure and no vacuum leaks.
 
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All stock. Looked a MAF upgrade, this seems like an upgrade sort of side step since if I make motor mods it would still need tuning. From what I gather the Holly efi and throttle bodies are easier to tune and or self learning.

And fuel pressure seems suspect. It doesn't pull or rev out like it should. Timing is dead on rulled that out.

Fuel pressure straight on the rail a good start?? Have to get me a gauge. I don't think the pump on the rail is anything special I'll have to check. I need to look up what this system requires.
 
I looked up inspections and from what I gathered 95 and older doesn't require OBD inspections.
So I'm 100 percent positive I want to delete the smog pump and egr.
Will this make it run worse or make trouble shooting it harder???
It would certainly reduce vacume lines.
 
Correct, check the pressure at the rail schoader valve. Any parts store will have one for cheap. Should be around 35ish running and when you unhook the vacuum hose from the reg it should rise around 5 psi.
You can delete the EGR and smog pump without any issues. It'll clean things up a lot.
 
I've done a few 89-92 5.0 MAF style conversions with the Early Broncos. The wiring harness can be slimmed down but it is a pretty involved process. The MAF system is much better for modding than the SD system is. Parts are getting very hard to find/expensive for the Mustang MAF conversion.

You are correct, anything 95 and earlier is not tested for emissions but the original smog equipment is supposed to be visually inspected (that it's there).

The old RJM website has a wealth of info on it.

For truly simple, it's hard to beat a carb. Depends on how much you're willing to learn with the EFI and what your goals are. IMHO, a properly running EFI setup can't be beat.
 
@Jody Treadway deffinately going to check pressure. Believe this was a 4 cylinder originally. I recall seeing a rail mounted pump first time under during my buying crawl around. Didn't look special or " upfitted" just new.
@UTfball68 thanks for the link I will learn up some more.
@broncosbybart This is going to be a test mule of sorts. Remember that engine I bought.....still got it. Always desired to be Ford pure and make it look stock in its desired build.( growing up a Ford service managers son I recon) However I'm slowly realizing 90s parts and tech isn't easpecially great or important to me. The MAF seems a dead horse for me. Old parts still not stand alone end user tunable. At least by me..

So, no thoughts on Holly products??

My buddy who owns Bullit race engines swears by it for all sorts of buildable goodies. He does high-end stuff with Pro chargers and multiple power additions. He swears by the tunability and when simple self learning ability.

My point of view was end user tuning and a better overall uncut harness.

Thoughts??
 
Me personally to clean up under the hood I'd run the Holley throttle body/carb efi with a Performer RPM intake or a similar system. Would look much cleaner and have plenty of tune-ability and upgrade potential.

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My thoughts are to keep it simple by addressing and repairing what you currently have. The truck EFI systems are dead nuts reliable and quite simple.
Before I went backwards and swapped in a carb or spent $2k on a Holley EFI conversion, I'd diagnose what you have. Fords EEC-IV EFI is a really good system. As long as you aren't swapping cams or anything like that, the OEM electronics will do just fine.

*Verify fuel pressure running and see if it drops rapidly once turned off. If it does, you could have a stuck open injector (among other things) that would explain your issues
* Unhook the pressure regulator vacuum hose and see if there is any raw gas on/in it. If the regulator is leaking, that can cause your issues as well.
* Verify your engine to chassis grounds. Really, really check them. That oversight cost me about $600 last year...
* Check spark quality to make sure you have adequate amount
 
@Chris_Keziah any direct experience,with the set up?? Isn't this what Jason Lackey ran on a 302? Or was it Howell?
This little rigs sole purpose is to get me back in the woods with the CTB. Been almost 15 years. Too long.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
@Chris_Keziah any direct experience,with the set up?? Isn't this what Jason Lackey ran on a 302? Or was it Howell?
This little rigs sole purpose is to get me back in the woods with the CTB. Been almost 15 years. Too long.
Click to expand...
None at all no, I'm just going off what I've seen online and PowerBlock. It looks like a nice simplistic set up that should be fairly user friendly. I have not a clue what he ran.



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GROUNDS, I have always seen the chasis straps and large motor to battery grounds.
Any harm in tying the firewall strap directly to the battery?? And related computer leads for that matter?? Off a central isolated lug with one larger cable straight to the post.


LS, uggh. I don't have anything against them. Make stupid power cheap. But this is what I have. It's also in my eyes slightly more unique.SLIGHLTY.
Blue oval heartbeat is ok with me..
Gonna learn some more, tinker some. It's all here and any cash out new part could be better spent. Good point Jody.
 
Usually the ground to the body from the motor is to reduce noise on the computer grounds and radio noise, since the larger ground wire to the battery carries the charging current. Out will work all tied to the battery but the ground ought to be run like they were originally to reduce ground loops and induced noise on signal grounds fwiw.
 
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